fixing clanks' holes/jeep tj help

[baldlobo]

So as everyone knows jeep tj's are flying bricks on wheels and i own one. So now comes me finding this interesting site, and the need to mod fills me.

the list of mods that have been completed so far

aerodynamics
grill block(might change it again)
foamed the hood(did this last summer/fall)
foamed the headlights
moved mirror's in 3 inches
removed hood pucks

to come
front skid plate(coroplast made)

drive train mods

4 hole injector swap(hear say says 1-1.5mpg increase)
engine kill switch

so i haven't drained the tank yet, just filled it up this past wednesday. most of the changes have been with the driver got 14l/100km before most of the mods and i only got to test some of them this past week.

just for some evidence.
idle
2.3l warm (stock)

with just the hood foamed
4.4l/h cold start
2.1-2.2l/h warm

with all the mods
4.0l/h cold start
2.1l/h unstable, i think the pcm is fighting it

ps. i'll be adding photos later

[baldlobo]

mirrors
passenger side mirror forward(doesn't quite work)

neither did driver's side forward

went with both mirror's back

reduced the mirror distance by 3 inches from the body

grill and front stuff

3/4" foam for hood surround
1/4" around the grill inserts and 3/8" inside may block off the top completely instead of 7 smaller grills(the one on the driver's side does nothing)
1/4" around the head lamps
= one sealed engine compartment for a jeep tj

[baldlobo]

old single hole injectors

new four hole injectors

make sure your throttle body is clean
Dirty throttle body

cleaner throttle body

[Sven7]

When you say the mirror doesn't quite work, does that mean you can't really see out of it?

I'd start filling the gaps between the fenders and bumper as well as making an air dam down from the bumper to guide the air around the sides instead of underneath. If you haven't installed smooth wheel covers (coroplast or pizza pans etc) they would also be a good idea.

Honestly all Wranglers are aero messes so you'll basically need to fabricate some body surfaces to make it work well. (such as the gap fillers and air dam) This doesn't mean it's not a good idea; it will just take more work to get it to perform!

Actually, if you're down for it, building a boat tail shouldn't be too hard, given all the mounting points built into a Jeep. Could you find an extra hardtop to cut the back out of in order to anchor a boat tail? You could see a good 20% highway fuel economy increase from a boat tail.

[baldlobo]

fuse box(the wiring plugs into the yellow 20amp fuse that's near the relays)

and just pics of the wiring
passenger side

center

driver's side

[baldlobo]

Originally Posted by Sven7

When you say the mirror doesn't quite work, does that mean you can't really see out of it?

I'd start filling the gaps between the fenders and bumper as well as making an air dam down from the bumper to guide the air around the sides instead of underneath. If you haven't installed smooth wheel covers (coroplast or pizza pans etc) they would also be a good idea.

Honestly all Wranglers are aero messes so you'll basically need to fabricate some body surfaces to make it work well. (such as the gap fillers and air dam) This doesn't mean it's not a good idea; it will just take more work to get it to perform!

Actually, if you're down for it, building a boat tail shouldn't be too hard, given all the mounting points built into a Jeep. Could you find an extra hardtop to cut the back out of in order to anchor a boat tail? You could see a good 20% highway fuel economy increase from a boat tail.

with the mirror's forward some of the reflection is blocked/other people have to feel safe driving it; already have one pizza pan and some industrial velcro, they might make it on don't know yet. Was already contemplating how to take care of the gap between the bumper and fender; jeep actually made pieces for that spot for european markets for both cost over 100, thinking something made of coroplast would work better.

if i got a hold of another hardtop, i'd try to section it down at the back; there's about half an inch or so from the roll bars(glass would be annoying to get made). Then maybe try a boat tail

[Red]

Look into the 04-06 TJ/LJ mirrors. The housing is curved and more bulbous in shape than then the 97-02s flat slabs

Other things you may want to consider is a new front end, some way to bypass the upright front end.

Large air dam below to divert air past the steering linkage and the front diff

Extend the t-case skid plate back to the fuel tank with a cut out for the control arms and rear diff

Maybe consider lower it, or putting those wisker things in the fender wells to close the gap between the tires and the fender flares.

As a TJ owner, best of luck to you mate, its not going to be easy.

[baldlobo]

Originally Posted by Red

Look into the 04-06 TJ/LJ mirrors. The housing is curved and more bulbous in shape than then the 97-02s flat slabs

Other things you may want to consider is a new front end, some way to bypass the upright front end.

Large air dam below to divert air past the steering linkage and the front diff

Extend the t-case skid plate back to the fuel tank with a cut out for the control arms and rear diff

Maybe consider lower it, or putting those wisker things in the fender wells to close the gap between the tires and the fender flares.

As a TJ owner, best of luck to you mate, its not going to be easy.

i wouldn't want the 04-06 mirrors, they have a bigger surface and would stick out in the wind more the way the mirror's are currently turned.

ok well, i'll do it if you do it

air dam, no; front skid, yes; while the air dam would reduce the drag more, i like experimenting and i already have the coroplast for the "skid".

in theory a piece going back from the skid to the gas tank might be a good idea, but not all car manufactures skid the whole under carage of cars(mosty just the front; ie. the most dirty part of the car.)

was thinking velcroed coroplast inserts for the fenders.

[Sven7]

Originally Posted by baldlobo

in theory a piece going back from the skid to the gas tank might be a good idea, but not all car manufactures skid the whole under carage of cars(mosty just the front; ie. the most dirty part of the car.)

Not many manufacturers actually give a ****, either. If you can, skin the whole thing. Also, with that approach angle you will definitely want an air dam. Otherwise your belly pan will compress air under the vehicle and create lift on the highway. If you go off roading and need the ground clearance, consider a removable dam.

[baldlobo]

sven7; are you familiar with Bernoulli's principle?, my jeeps underside isn't flat like a car's is.

the abridged version is longer distance around lowers static pressure and increases dynamic pressure, there's a higher pressure in the bubble under the jeep, the air going down the skid would accelerate, creating a boundary layer. lift, i think suction would be more likely; that's if you take away the side wakes, and gusts of wind.

[rant]and about the manufactures not giving a ****, i think they have more too them then just being a one headed giant. More like a three headed hydra; there's what the engineers originally design, that gets morphed by the executives(by focus groups), and then the bean counters make the quotes for how much it may make over the products life span, minusing along the way costs for research and development; along with the epa and cafe standards, the engineers come up with ways to meet those standards, present them to the executives, who in turn make decisions based on how much the product might make. Long story short what we get is generally far from what the engineer originally designed; and more along the lines of how much the executives are willing to wager on their product.

tldl; we get the smoking log out of the hydra's ass[/rant]