As requested, here are some photos for you.
Here's what the motor end looks like after getting "shaved". It is 5/8 of an inch shorter than it was before.
I took a photo of what it looks like under the hood to give you a better idea of how this all works. Yes, I know it is messy. Much of the car's original wiring harness will be going away soon though.
I tried out the new power brake setup, and it works great! The two short bits of vacuum hose are from the hardware and auto parts stores, but the little bit of line on the pump isn't. It looks like aquarium air pump hose. It might be, for all I know, but it is working fine right now.
I put the Vac Gauge inside the car (where the radio was) so I can monitor my SOV (state-of-vacuum). I have a relay rigged up to run the vac pump when I touch two wires together. I will rig that up to a momentary on switch for right now. It only takes about 5 seconds to pull -15 on the vac gauge, and that's enough for a good 6 pumps of the brake pedal. I will NOT need to have the pump run very often at all.
I pulled the 200 amp ammeter (and matching shunt) off of the huge charger that came with when I bought the forklift. I installed it in the car with the shunt in back coming off the + end of the battery pack. I put the meter up on the dash where I could easily see it while driving. It is a world of difference to know how many amps you are pulling in different driving situations. It's also amazing at the difference in amperage depending on what gear you are in. I can be 50 to 100 amps MORE to drive at the same speed in a higher gear than the one just below it with the motor rev'ed higher!
At first, I thought the ammeter might be faulty, because it didn't read at all. The first time I looked at it while pulling away from a stop, I noticed the gauge read at 0 and then dropped to BELOW 0 while under load. No problem, I switched the polarity of the wires going to it and it worked fine!
