01 Dodge 3500 4x4 dually challange!

[dem45133]

Originally Posted by beatr911

I'm glad you are offering up lots of suggestions in the original post. Shows you are really thinking about this.

With two hours of commute''' lots of time to think... was from the beginning... but then was attacked on the size and other things... ended up getting way off track.

[dem45133]

Originally Posted by beatr911

Have you started to decide which of the ideas you or others suggested you would like to try first?

Right now I'm in the middle of a major remodel on the house... so its research only at this point... no new projects until the house is done (if I want to stay married that is... and I do).

Current thoughts,

1st will be cleaning up some aero... especially on the deer catcher. It needs to stay... well proven for around here. But... needs some aero treatments. (I've also have had an aviation interest all my life... this will not be hard.

2nd will be cleaning up drag under it. Thinking some kind of poly sheeting 3/32" or may 1/8" and lining the whole underside front to rear.

3rd will be some how reducing what the dully catches... fenders over them are fairly streamlined already... this may involve building up some custom layup on fiberglass...

After this... the battery slide in in under an aero cap that's part of it... the motor will drive the front axle... but I have find a pass though DC motor that does not use perm magnets... have to neutralize the mag fields, if the cummins is using 4x4 for very long. See I envision the DC motor will be incorporated into a custom front drive shaft assembly... but still needs to transfer regular torque from the transfer case when the cummins is doing 4x4. It might need 4x4 to pull the 8500 lb sail boat up the ramp when pulling it, this needs to be 4 wheel low range as designed.

Might have to custom design the motor (1st job after HS was in an electric motor rewinding shop... yea I can design this up too). Also along this line and the DC battery system... I have an ace in the hole... a 48 year verteran master electrician as an Uncle whose initial training was for the WWII submarines. We've talked about it...

Haven't figured out the drag on the rear pinion... that will be substantial in e mode. But if I can rebuild the rear axle to incorporate a disconnect like the front system it would be significantly reduced. But that my be a challenge... though not impossible.

Think "transformer" (as in the toys) mode, or James Bond.

later...and thanks

[beatr911]

Here's one. No need to burn less fuel.

At lunch CNN reported natural gas prices are at a 10 year low. What is the maximum CNG assist you can run in the cummins?

[dem45133]

Originally Posted by beatr911

Here's one. No need to burn less fuel.

At lunch CNN reported natural gas prices are at a 10 year low. What is the maximum CNG assist you can run in the cummins?

I do not know.... does anyone else? I'll go out to the cummins forum and ask. Might require major mods to the pump and turbo gates...

(10 year low and on CNN... well it won't be for long I suspect...)

[beatr911]

Here's another one. Cut your diesel with ATF.

Drop by a transmission shop sometime and ask if they'll give you thier old ATF. Run the ATF through a <1 micron filter a few times then dump it in your tank. I use 20% filtered, used ATF 80% Diesel in my tractor. Always have, always will.

Some diesel guys say they run 50% used ATF. Engine oil smokes a little more and deposits ash in the combustion chamber. I use up all I generate, and more.

You could be a rolling HAZMAT disposal site like me!

[beatr911]

Er, I mean HAZMAT recycling site.

[Tesla]

Been folowing your threads, nice truck, mines big enough, your's is next size up.
First thing is, particularly being a diesel, keep the mechanicals in good tune.
Payback period will always be a big question, so if you are going down this path, because it's what you like doing, not an issue, but if you are doing this because it is a financial decision, then you need to critically question the payback period.
I am dubious of the value of doing the big battery banks and electric motors, don't think you will see any return before the truck rusts out.
IMHO do the simple cheap things, like grille block, some underside smoothing, but primarily I think you need to see the king hit and the "Pickup" body is primed for a make over and there you will see a significant impact. There are plenty of examples of what others have done and the results achieved, this can be a relatively cheap project with a short payback period.
But before you do anything, you need to establish your current numbers, FE & coast down std, then as you make mods you will have something to compare to.
Is your's NA or Turbo, and if so do you have an intercooler (aftercooler) on it?

[Ryland]

If you look at semi-trucks you will notice that they are moving to single instead of dual wheels per axle, this is for fuel savings, apparently a single wide tire is more efficient, at the same time I think you can get small size heavy truck tires that run at 100-120psi and have a much longer wear life then your current tires, they also have a lower rolling resistance and are designed for a heavier load so switching to a single rear on either side would still allow you to haul your 2000+ pounds in the bed of the truck and get rid of the fender flairs.

[slowmover]

Best spec is obviously:

2WD
SRW
Manual trans

I'd say those will pay for the change made. As to those who demand 4WD there isn't going to be a reasonable FE commensurate with on-road requirements.

The usual list to check off is:

- all book maintenance, time & miles
- no brake drag
- no steering wander (a real weak spot)
- tire pressure according to load (and closed shoulder highway rib tires)
- no CAC leaks

Next is how to improve the usual commute:

- Plug in block heater year-round
- Other oil heaters
- Use MOPAR winter front (same)

After that is aero treatment.

Driver skill, through planning and being willing to make changes -- large and small -- in how one drives is the real money saver.

I've learned quite a bit from Diesel_Dave this past near-year. A reading of his posts ought to be of help. For example, I now shift at 1,500 and am looking at 3.42 rear gears to get the motor more closely into the FE sweet spot of 1300-1500-rpm whether in town or on the road. It's an eye-opener to realize that in-town mileage can be higher than highway.

The hybrid idea is a heckuva lot of fun. I'm curious to see what you come up with. The only additional batteries I'd add to my truck (at present) will have to do with a [future] solar bank on my travel trailer. Same for propane. It may be good for extending the range of the diesel onboard and provide greater capacity for the travel trailer as well as fire a[n] [also future] commercial ONAN generator (as the diesel generators are heavy and $$$).

It's all a balancing act between weight, complexity and ROI. So truck spec matters most in making the most, IMO.

.

[dem45133]

At this time its conceptual... because I've always seem to come up with ideas, and have built many of my ideas. Payback will be a BIG question... not to mention the work involved. But I bought it 2 years ago to drive as primary (and was attacked for that)... but that may not happen due to contrived and controlled screwing on fuel costs. I've already said my opinion on that... and it pisses me no end to have 16k tied up in this truck that they will render practically unusable at 5 or 6 dollars a gallon. I bought it also to be able to haul the 6500 lb 27 sailboat (with trailer is ~8500-9000 (never weighted it) to the great lakes and other larger lakes for mini vacations. Here I set up so the boat lives at home... as these kind of toys can have 0 fixed costs when unemployed, i.e marina fees etc... so they have to live at home and eat only when I let them eat. Don't worry every one... it was an $800.00 yes $800 I bought on ebay and hauled home from Green Bay, WI. Oh, I'm repowering it non standard non conventional too using a 65 hp Industrial Duetz... 4 times the hp for cruise (so it'll be just off idle for that)... but I like good brakes which the 13 hp outboard on 6500 lbs IS NOT! Guess we won't mention to them the 30 year old 27 ft 10ft beam Sport fisherman with a fresh 454 full inboard I ALMOST a few years ago bought for the value of the trailer under it... yes, needed a few things like stringers and a new floor which I could have done in a heartbeat... but even then at 3.25 a gallon then (now 5.50 for marine gas) it would have cost a 1.75 per minute (now about $2.25 per min) to operate at cruise on the great lakes... more (double) by the time I warmed up that 454 to 572 and a 1000 more rpm because 50 knots on BIG water is FUN! But I walked away and decided to do sail as I enjoy the relaxing effect of it too. Now even that's a problem as it has to be towed to the water... or limit the waters and pay marina fees.

Now I'm going to have to start commuting with my wife's 94 concord on days she's not using it, but with 160k on it now and not being a 300k car to start with... it won't last long. So because of the fuel companies I have to revamp everything...AGAIN!

Maybe I'll get a small 4 banger convertible sports car... but they get three prices for these too... at least then when it kills me because of some idiot I went out in style. I have a mint 85 Suzuki 700 Madura... but its dry warm days only and I am only a 2 wheel a little spooked rookie yet. A dog or a deer (which are everywhere here) will kill you, not to mention idiots that don't look. Something to be said for weighing 7k. I've had heavy metal for so long... just the lightness of the suspension and brake systems in these itty bitty cars make me nervous... there is just is nothing there... itty bitty everything! One run into the ditch and out to avoid some idiot...will kill it.

Will see if I go to single tire. For towing fifthwheel or gooseneck the dually is better depending on the tongue load.I like the dually, but running empty it has too little wt per square inch of contact area on wet pavement... my single tire (with the topper though) never has that issue. I've had the 1 ton break out twice on wet curves that I've driven the same with the 3/4 for years.

This "tranformer" idea is conceptual... and depends on locating cost effective solutions. I did rewinding and know people in that industry too yet. Yes, I CAN mill an armature, do the math, buy the comutator, build the windings, and build a custom motor/pass through front drive shaft that would set in between the transfer case and the front diff. Oh, I forgot, I'm not really supposed to have the machine tools according to green thought, as I had to haul them from Rochester NY (19500 lbs combined gross with the 3/4 ton and my 12000 lb cap tandem axle flatbed trailer). These antique units were free and I rescued them from going the scrap yard. (1920 and 1935, but work perfectly). Then there is the drag from the rear ring and pinion to address too which could be done by switching it to a used front axle with the axle disconnect system... but its not as strong and would limit its capacity. Building in a new axle system into the existing carrier would be hard as while I can mill it, I can't harden it proper.

I'll clean up its drag... and try 60 mph... but I expect the mileage difference will not be significant. I've been babying the 3/4 all week... doing various hypermile things... 62 on a four lane with zero traffic!!!(aghh!!!), 1/2 mile to accel to 60 (Geeez!)... letting it pull down to 35 on the hills (dbl geez!)... but it looks like all I'll gain is 30 miles on the tank full (about 28 gal on typical fill up), that $8 worth... not sure its worth it the aggravation factor. Gonna have to punch it once just to hear what its supposed to sound like again and regain my sanity! Might be more on the cummins, but on the v8 auto... its not significant.

Thanks for your comments... I appreciate the real ones.

Dave