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Old 12-22-2011, 02:48 PM   #351 (permalink)
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Just a small revision:
To avoid repetition, keep a list of tips that are applicable to all vehicles, and the shorter lists of tips that are only applicable to specific types of vehicles.

Yeh, I guess that's a lot of work for somebody ... and I'm not volunteering

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Old 12-22-2011, 03:34 PM   #352 (permalink)
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Old 12-22-2011, 03:47 PM   #353 (permalink)
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Drat - and I was just going to volunteer you!
I toldyou - I've been lurking. I know how this place works ...
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Old 01-29-2012, 05:03 AM   #354 (permalink)
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# 28

My humblest apologies if this is reposted info. I scanned thru and did not find anything of likeness to the following~

I've just under 2,000,000 miles on the road as both a commuter and commercial truck driver, and I can tell you from that experience in my opinion #28 is DEAD WRONG. The best way to handle multiple stops is to plan your route accordingly to minimize left turns! This method uses the least amount of time and fuel~ not waiting for traffic to clear for your left-turn progress. This also saves fuel/time/tempers for everyone BEHIND you as well. Try this and save fuel, save time, save patience, prevent road rage!

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Old 01-29-2012, 10:03 AM   #355 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by albyneau View Post
My humblest apologies if this is reposted info. I scanned thru and did not find anything of likeness to the following~

I've just under 2,000,000 miles on the road as both a commuter and commercial truck driver, and I can tell you from that experience in my opinion #28 is DEAD WRONG. The best way to handle multiple stops is to plan your route accordingly to minimize left turns! This method uses the least amount of time and fuel~ not waiting for traffic to clear for your left-turn progress. This also saves fuel/time/tempers for everyone BEHIND you as well. Try this and save fuel, save time, save patience, prevent road rage!

Peace~
Scott
Err ... why does your tip invalidate #28? They don't have to be mutually exclusive, do they?
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Old 01-29-2012, 10:10 AM   #356 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by euromodder View Post
Downshifting is used to help engine braking, appears to use less fuel as the fuel flow is cut off.
Yet it's essentially a braking technique, and braking wastes fuel unless you're powered by gravity and need to check your speed.


Coasting in idle beats engine braking.

Reiterating, downshifting is used to increase engine, or "compression", braking, as opposed to using a car's brakes to slow or stop.

Until many auto manufacturers cottoned on, generally in the '70s', to the importance of improved braking/or the costs for better brake systems fell/or consumers demanded it [front disc brakes were an option on the '69 327 Camero], downshifting for slowing or stopping was very important. I worked with a guy who used to race a NEW C-Type Jag in the early 50's [a car that today would be worth $5M, if he hadn't totaled it at Sebring, and ended his racing career]; he said the large drum brakes just weren't up to repeatedly slowing the car. He made that statement to comments I made about my '55 TR2, in the '90's, but still with drum brakes. Plus it can also be important to balance the car while braking hard, and without a more modern brake bias proportioning system, racing corvettes in the 1970's found that "compression braking" was something that drivers of Porsche 911's had to be more careful with, and helped at least one Corvette driver (another guy I knew) "keep up" with the drivers of those rear-engined cars, at some corners. And anyone who's driven cars from the 1920's or 30's knows the value of the 3-2 shift, when braking, and also the dangers (broken gears/skids/spins/lots of grinding/jerky ride) with trying a 2-1 shift. I asked a friend why the 5.0L Mustangs, in showroom stock, way back in the late '80's weren't so much faster than his Nissan 2.0L NX; he said the that, because of all their power, the Mustangs only had one good "stop" per lap!...meaning, of course, that they needed to rely on their downshifting, for braking, setting the car up for the turns, and for accelerating.

Downshifting when braking makes sense if you can anticipate a "near stop", when you might have the chance to not have to stop, but so that you are then in the right gear to accelerate again, when traffic/lights change...with the added bonus that you might be able to help some of the traffic behind you to flow better.

And somewhere what gear you car is in should be tempered with the idea that it should be in the right gear for the generally anticipated conditions - being able to get out of the way of a truck is a better idea than getting killed while trying to save 2 cents worth of fuel. And then there's the benefit of using a lower gear when driving in hilly/curvy country, and the obvious used of compression braking when driving down a mountain. And I might as well though in, or when your car is heavily loaded with people and/or stuff...it makes sense to err on the side of caution.

We suspect that more people manually shift up when accelerating or when they've reach their desired cruising speed, or when they want to reduce the car's torque at the road, like when driving on snow.

The other appropriate use for downshifting is when braking for a corner, but not just for manual transmission cars. But everybody knows how to heel & toe, right? You might want to slow for a corner, and might want a lower gear to accelerate faster out of the corner, or use the higher torque at the road afforded by a lower gear to help you steer the car through the corner, when at the limit of adhesion (either race "racing speeds" or when driving on snow or gravel). Modern cars' brakes are generally pretty strong, and can mask a botched heel & toe effort. Without some braking, however, a botched down shift - especially in the rain, snow, gravel, or in the middle of a wet corner, when the driver has totally mis-matched the revs during the shift - can really unsettle the back-end of a rear wheel drive car; rear tires chirping, a skid, or spin shouldn't be unexpected.

Another great use for engine braking is in areas where you see a lot of children in, or beside, the streets. Running along in 5th or 6th gear, I'll downshift a gear or two, in part to slow the car, but also to create some noise; I want those kids - often engrossed in a ball game - to know that there is a car coming.

If more people thought about, and "practiced" slowing and stopping, traffic would flow better, and we'd all use less fuel and time, when driving around. Oh, and the roads would be safer, too. I recall what JP Montoya told Jeff Gordon, during their "Trading Paint" exhibition: "If you improved the brakes, the car would go faster!"
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:33 AM   #357 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gdcwatt View Post
We suspect that more people manually shift up when accelerating or when they've reach their desired cruising speed, or when they want to reduce the car's torque at the road, like when driving on snow.
In real snow in close quarters, I've found the other way to be safer. I'll be driving slowly, yes, but I'll be in an extra low gear at high revs. If I want a little more speed then the pedal gives me it. If I need a little less, the same pedal gives me that, too. If I make a mistake and give too much throttle, that mistake doesn't get horribly multiplied by a higher gear ratio. There's no coasting, no abandoning the gas pedal and switching to the brake, just finessing one pedal to maintain positive control over the drive wheels at all times. Maybe this only works well with AWD and a manual, but there you are.

And yes, driving at high revs in low gear is hypermiling if it keeps you out of the snowbank.
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Manual neutral engine off.100% @MPG <----- Fun Fact.
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Old 01-30-2012, 11:10 AM   #358 (permalink)
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I've been compression braking since I started driving -- the benefits are far too many to name -- but I would never use compression braking in a racing environment. You're dealing with rpms that at best would leave you frustrated by the rev limiter and at worst blow your engine. Add on to that the fact that compression braking adds almost nothing to the overall deceleration (in the greater scheme of things), it's just not worth it. Use your brakes to decelerate, and heel-toe to keep your rpms. While racing is somewhat about efficiency and conservation of energy/momentum, all of that gets set aside for greater speed. Just my opinions, of course.
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Old 01-31-2012, 06:54 AM   #359 (permalink)
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Quote:
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In real snow in close quarters, I've found the other way to be safer. I'll be driving slowly, yes, but I'll be in an extra low gear at high revs.
Same here.
The higher revs give a far better indication of the available grip than the numb detached feeling that one gear too high gives.
It also means lots of smooth braking power is available by letting go of the throttle - it's smoother than the brakes.

For me, snow really means driving without brakes.
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Old 04-12-2012, 02:52 AM   #360 (permalink)
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How about dress for success?
Here in the Phoenix area it gets pretty stinkin hot and I feel a need to run the AC pretty regularly. I found that if I take a pair of shorts and sandals with me to work I get to change into cooler clothes for the ride home from work and run the AC a little bit less.

I read through about half of the pages and didn't see any thing about it. Maybe I missed it.

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