59 EDSEL 2.3 Turbo 5 Speed Conversion

[amcpacer]

That is definitely true about performing an alignment once the ride height issue is worked out. Gotta love the old style single piston master cylinder too [precurser to modern ABS I think not!]! I adjusted the drum brakes via the star wheel so each wheel has a very small amount of drag.

I finally got some time to install the new custom length driveline. I also installed a clutch pedal/cable from an 80s mitsubishi mini pickup. The cable end bracket will need some reinforcement where it bolts to the firewall because I can see a small amount of firewall flex when the pedal is pressed down. The 80s mitsubishi pedal works great because the pedal turns a shaft that goes through a steel tube with a hook at the other end for the cable. This made it easy to weld the clutch pedal outer tube to the dashboard support brackets.

I picked up a gas pedal from a 90s Ford Ranger pickup truck and modified it to be actuated by the OEM Edsel gas pedal. I had to experiment with a few different lengths on the fulcrum length to attain correct gas pedal travel. It all looks a little bit ugly at the moment but I will sand and paint everything later. Still I am excited to have all three working pedals; throttle, brakes, and clutch!!!

[amcpacer]

The project is very close to completion! The engine starts and runs great and I hope to take it for a test drive tomorrow! The paint job is complete and the trim has been installed.

I took a couple of pictures today. I hope to get a couple pics of the engine bay tomorrow (when the sun is shining).

Over the last month I experienced difficulties with correct engine operation. First the injectors I had were the brown top 35lb/hr injectors which were meant for the later 88 year engine. It is true that my engine is from 1988 but I am using the 1984 VAM and computer. The car would start and run but very rich with lots of black smoke. A friend down the street gave me a proper set of green top Bosch 30lb/hr injectors to install. At first the engine was running on 3 cylinders due to a stuck injector at cylinder #2. I bought a new injector at Autozone and installed it and now it starts right up and runs perfectly!

Later the engine was leaking lots of oil from the valve cover gasket. It turns out that it had the original cork gasket. I replaced it with a nice blue fel-pro reusable gasket and it stopped leaking.

This morning the car would not start and with a multimeter I traced the open circuit to a circular box above the steering column under the hood. HAHA! The car was not shifted into park! Sure it has a 5 speed now but the factory automatic selector is still in place so when the ignition key is turned it requires neutral or park to send current to the solenoid. I plan to leave the automatic shifter in place for anti theft.

I have heard a ton of opposition to my project from older people. People seem angry that I would get rid of an all American V8 for a I4. Some folks say it will not have enough power to even move. Some people think it will get worse fuel economy because the engine will have to work too hard. Of course no amount of reasoning or fact can easily dispel 50+ years of unscientific assumptions. I plan to test drive it soon and prove that it is solid!

I am very anxious to start driving it so I can find out what the fuel economy will be!

[vacationtime247]

Forget the haters. That cars is SWEET! Definetly an upgrade over the original V8. Built the car you wanted, not many people can say that.
VT247

[bhazard]

Nice job man. You should definitely get the 87-88 electronics in there though, that or megasquirt, which would be way better.

These engines are NOT tuned for FE in the least bit. They run rich to be safe. In the summer I could pretty easily get 25-30 mpg with my tbird. In the winter, maybe 20.

Theres a good amount of misinformation in this thread too. 2.3 bottom ends are NOT weak in the least bit. They are actually far stronger than a stock 5.0 bottom end, 500hp is nothing for them. Some have put 800 to them with no issues.

If you go with the 87-88 electronics 18 psi is plenty safe on a stock setup. I wouldnt do it on the earlier stuff though, just not enough fuel.

87-88 turbo coupes weighed 3415lbs fully optioned out. Mine was around 3200 empty. I ran a 14.71 at 93 mph with 18psi on the stock turbo, a 3 inch exhaust, and a K&N in place of the airbox. So the old folks can stick in up their you know what. The 2.3 will far outperform the wheezy old lopo v8. That tall gear will slow it down though. Might make the engine lug a bit too much too, 5th will probably only be usable on the highway.

A friend of mine has an 88 tbird with a stock 2.3, holset and megasquirt. He runs 28 psi all day. Car has run 12.75 at 112 mph on street tires at FULL weight, over 3600lb. Only .25 seconds off the gt500 he ran against. He also drove it to the track and back. It dyno'd around 350rwhp and 400rwtq.

The main thing holding these engines back is the stock management. Chryslers setup is far superior. The ford EEC is archaic. Megasquirt is by far the best though.

But like I said the easiest/cheapest thing to do for a stock/daily car if youre not looking for a ton of power is to update everything to 87-88 spec. That, a 3 inch exhaust (mine was pretty quiet with a magnaflow muffler), K&N right on the end of the VAF, and a cheap boost controller running 18 psi. A car with those mods dynoed right around 200rwhp and 300rwtq. Yes thats a big hp/tq ratio for a 4 banger. Thats the great thing about 2.3's they put out good torque when the boost kicks in. At that point you would have a great daily driver with ample power when you want it.

[usergone]

Originally Posted by bhazard

The ford EEC is archaic. Megasquirt is by far the best though.
That, a 3 inch exhaust (mine was pretty quiet with a magnaflow muffler)...

Muffler? What muffler?

It'd be interesting to see a megasquirt on a diesel... Kind of like a chip added to the 24 valver (or powerstroke/dmax) I imagine. You could probably do some dynamic timing based on speed/load and put it way back for some better power AND FE (also reduces EGTs a bit and raises cylinder temps a bit. More fuel burns completely IN the cylinder instead of in the exhaust).

Do you have an intercooler on your setup?


I'm sure you already know this, but you better have a pyro if you want to start tuning up the performance... don't melt your turbo. Then also be sure to not blow your headgasket

I'm curious about the actual car itself. Being from 1959, I'm sure it doesn't have the best of safety features in the frame. Do you plan any reinforcement? I know that would add weight but in my book that would be worth it for not becoming a sandwich.

Project is looking great!

[Frank Lee]

I can hardly wait to hear how well it goes! The naysayers will have to eat crow. It's not easy being ahead of the curve eh?

[amcpacer]

It is good to know the 2.3 is a solid engine design. I want to convert to megasquirt but it is not currently in the budget. For now this 84 computer seems to work great. I have a SRT4 intercooler sitting around that I may try to fit in front of the radiator. I plan to buy a wideband LC1 soon so I can start upping the boost. I also have an extra water injection system that used to be on a turbo Dodge Daytona. How much intercooled boost is typically allowed for the early (84) turbo-coupe electronic systems?

I ordered some 3 point seat belts on e-bay. As soon and are installed I will take the car for a drive. Regarding the frame strength, it is hard to tell how the car will perform in the event of a collision. I do not want to find out! Do you have any suggestions on where to weld in additional steel for safety?

I see kits on ebay to change the axle ratio of a ford 9". This car has very tall tires so I am considering ordering a 3.77:1. I guess I should wait until it is driven to know the actual amount of change needed.

Here are some more pictures.

[usergone]

Originally Posted by amcpacer

I ordered some 3 point seat belts on e-bay. As soon and are installed I will take the car for a drive. Regarding the frame strength, it is hard to tell how the car will perform in the event of a collision. I do not want to find out! Do you have any suggestions on where to weld in additional steel for safety?

Seat belts are a definite improvement! lol

I wish I knew more about frame design and rigidity, but unfortunately I don't. If it was mine, depending on how paranoid I was, I would probably put plenty of 1/4" wall 1.5" tubing making trianges all over the ladder frame, including a minor roll bar. But that is just me not trusting the frame designs of the 1950s. That could also get really heavy really fast.

But that's not to say I don't appreciate the cars from the golden years; I love 'em!

Edit: I was just looking at the most recent pics... :drool: dang that car polished up nicely!

[rmay635703]

Originally Posted by thecheese429

Seat belts are a definite improvement! lol

If it was mine, depending on how paranoid I was, I would probably put plenty of 1/4" wall 1.5" tubing making trianges all over the ladder frame, including a minor roll bar. But that is just me not trusting the frame designs of the 1950s. That could also get really heavy really fast.

But that's not to say I don't appreciate the cars from the golden years; I love 'em!

Edit: I was just looking at the most recent pics... :drool: dang that car polished up nicely!

??? The frame was generally very strong, in fact usually so strong that the person inside would smack against the equally strong dash at full speed.

If you are really worried about safety, learn how to drive more safely.

If you are still worried add padding before structural reinforcement, unless you are racing it probably isn't worth putting in a roll cage (which is the only safe way I know of actually strengthening the cabin) Also a collapsable column for the steering wheel if it doesn't already have one (surprizingly there were cars with these long long ago)

Welding the frame as far as I'm concerned is always a VERY VERY bad idea, I work at a place that builds vehicles, welds are not allowed on the frame and no repairs are allowed on the frame work as it removes the temper. The only possible exception I could ever see is on purpose built welded frames, usually welds are limited to certain areas though. Also possibly the very rear section of the framework that doesn't really support anything normally could probably be welded.

If memory serves it is also technically possible to install an airbag (driver at least) if stolen from certain older years of cars that had less external circuitry, I'm not sure if it would really make the car safer though.

Cheers
Ryan

[gone-ot]

...it's BEAUTIFUL! Makes me think back to the two Edsels my parents had (both '59's).