09-28-2008, 08:19 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Olympia, wa
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I would like to bump this, I am looking at doing the same thing with a Mazda B2600i.
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09-28-2008, 08:30 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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EV test pilot
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Oconomowoc, WI, USA
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Hey Guys,
I haven't checked this thread in a while.
Here's an update:
Since getting this truck, I changed the fuel filter, air filter, changed to AMS synthetic oil and filter, removed the belt-driven fan and replaced it with an electric one, and added a partial tonneau cover.
The belt driven fan was replaced with the electric fan pulled out of my Geo Metro being converted to electric. Rather than sell or throw away the fan, I installed it on the truck.
I also made a simple, flat cover that goes over the back of the truck bed. It is just a sheet of rigid plastic I got from a greenhouse that was being remodelled. I can turn it and set it down in the bed if I have some cargo to pick up that would come up past the sides of the bed.
I tried using some of the same material to make a slanty rear cover, but it was too hard to work with the rigid material and get all the angles right. I would still like to explore the idea of making a "wedge" rear out of foam and fiberglass.
I also do some engine-off-coasting, mostly just when coming up to traffic lights.
I am currently getting 30 MPG in the truck.
-Ben
Last edited by bennelson; 09-28-2008 at 10:05 PM..
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09-28-2008, 09:59 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Steppes of Central Indiana
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Looks like you about where I am.
My take:
Hinges on the cab is not the right answer. The hinges will inevitably foul the air flow and the cab structure is not solid enough for anything heavier than paper. I intend to use a stout front bulkhead to operate the hinges.
We have discussed how far to taper down. For my 80" long bed my new fastback will truncate at 8-10 inches above the tailgate top. That gives me a 12 degree slope where the flow should stay attached all the way to the end. Mine is now 17 degrees and I may be getting flow separation.
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2000 Ford F-350 SC 4x2 6 Speed Manual
4" Slam
3.08:1 gears and Gear Vendor Overdrive
Rubber Conveyor Belt Air Dam
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09-28-2008, 10:22 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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METROANNOSAURUS REX
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Marble, NC
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I know the cab hinges won't work exactly because of the flex between that and the bed but if you were able to figure it out, a "piano" hinge would be a very low profile and could be strong enough to handle your bed cover if it was something low weight.
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02-24-2009, 11:25 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: colorado
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aeromoding my truck
Ive got one more thing you might think about. You might ask where the truck was built for. I had a 95 sonoma with a 2.2 L engine. I bought it in Colorado and took it to California where I lived at the time. I got a good 30 MPG. When I moved back to Colorado I got 35 MPG. I found out that the computer is programed for a range of altitude. You might look that over as well.
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01-12-2010, 06:33 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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Hot rodder eco wannabe
Join Date: May 2009
Location: kansas city
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S-10
30MPG is what I was getting with my '97 S-10 and I only had a K&N air filter, catback exhaust, a Jet module and I lowered it 2" all the way around. So it was lowered to the "Extreme" Package level. Only one aero mod and that was new mirrors because the old ones were jacked up. You might want try those items out if you have the money. Also, the reason why the filter on your wife's car fits this S-10 is because it's the same engine (just different engine mounting locations). And that's why it's such a pain to get to the filter on your wife's car without flipping the cruise control box on to the cowl. It's a longitudinally mounted engine in a transversly mounted car. Most of the stuff on Mantapart Performance Products in the 2.2L OHV engine section will work on your S-10.
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10-24-2010, 04:55 AM
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#17 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: pacific southwest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suchy21
and smoother acceleration.
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what do you attribute the smoother acceleration to?
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10-24-2010, 05:42 AM
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#18 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Wellington, NZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by max_frontal_area
what do you attribute the smoother acceleration to?
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I imagine it would be from the engine having one less thing to spin up during acceleration.
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10-24-2010, 06:14 AM
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#19 (permalink)
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MyOtherCar is a SolarCar
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kentucky
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@tumnasgt: yep
@max_frontal_area: Maybe "smooth" was unspecific, but I've noticed that my truck lurches less (and is quieter) at low speeds and high RPMs once the belt-driven radiator fan was swapped for the electric (which seldom kicks on).
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10-24-2010, 11:27 AM
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#20 (permalink)
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EV test pilot
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Oconomowoc, WI, USA
Posts: 4,435
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Wow, old thread....
I have too many unfinished projects.
Also, my first-born child just arrived this week. If it's not one thing, it's another...
Well, my great master plan right now is to build a cap out of fiberglass over foam. It will be sort of a big wedge.
Now here's the fun part I cam up with:
It will be hinged SIDEWAYS. I am imagining this as a piano hinge down the top of the driver's-side bed rail.
Hinging sideways eliminates any interference with the cab of the truck. It still allows me to easily get big things through the back of the truck, or over the side. I think hinging on the left side is best because that puts me on the sidewalk or away from traffic when parallel-parked in busy areas.
Side-hinging also gets rid of any problems of various joints that would have to be weather-proofed. (I want this to be rain-tight.)
My Dad has done some work the last while building wood canoes. They are made from cedar, and covered with a single layer of fiberglass (which just ends up being clear, showing off the wood.) He has all the fiberglass material. I just need the time and space to work on the foam to build the cap.
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