Alternator modifications

[t vago]

Give me a more realistic figure, then. This is what I used to arrive at my figure.



And I got the base power draw numbers here -> Ecomodder: MetroMPG -> List of "typical" electrical loads in a modern car

I took out all of the intermittent loading, as well as stuff I don't even have (throttle-by-wire, for instance). Even assuming no blower motor, LEDs at all exterior running lights and all interior lights, and no radio, I still arrive at 35 amps at a bare minimum.

Edit: Hm... maybe replace my blower motor resistor with some sort of PWM motor driver... that's an idea. Ought to cut down on the blower motor consumption.

[oil pan 4]

Everything you could want to know about alternators:
Generators | Automotive Electricity and Electronics

[Cycle]

Hi, all. Long time, no see. I dumped the bike over on its side from a slick spot on the road, so it's down for a couple weeks while I order new parts. Fortunately, no major injuries on me, just a couple small scrapes.

On to the topic at hand, has anyone considered a microswitch connected to the bottom of the accelerator pedal? In our car, the pedal can tilt, so if you push on the top of it with your toe, the pedal will pivot without moving the actual throttle linkage.

That could be used as an alternator disconnect... when the accelerator pedal isn't depressed (such as during coasting), the alternator is charging. When the accelerator pedal is depressed, the alternator is cut out. In my thinking, the microswitch would go to a solid state relay which cuts on and off the alternator field windings.

If you're on a long road trip and absolutely need to charge, it'd be a simple matter to adjust your foot so the pedal is pressed from the bottom, which would tilt the accelerator pedal back to its resting (undepressed) position and energize the alternator field windings.

[oil pan 4]

Disconnecting the field does hardly anything
Most of the drive power going to the alternator is expended pushing air around.