Dieselboy getting his goal with his heavy SUV!

[TimV]

Originally Posted by fearone

Try only to use it down hills, in gear.

Ive got an (80)150amps alternator. So probably putting out 80 amps at idle.

Originally Posted by renault_megane_dci

I had in mind that kind of price range.
At 100€ an hour, you can not really expect much less.

I was aiming for a price of 500 to 1000€. But 2000 is just way to much...

Like 5h labor = 500€
Dif gears = 300€
Together = 800€

And not 2000...

[fearone]

Originally Posted by TimV

Ive got an (80)150amps alternator. So probably putting out 80 amps at idle.



I was aiming for a price of 500 to 1000€. But 2000 is just way to much...

Like 5h labor = 500€
Dif gears = 300€
Together = 800€

And not 2000...

I mean so that you use kinetic energy (from hill) to heat engine rather than fuel.

[oil pan 4]

Here is a 180 amp alt. It only produces about 40 amps at idle.
See how the output drops like a lift with its cable cut near the bottom of its range.
It also depends on how much the alt is over driven. Idle can be as low as 650rpm and on diesels for some reason OEMs use a larger alt pulley. Sometimes giving a alt drive ratio as low as 1 engine rotation to 2 alternator rotations.


Then the problem is can the wiring in the vehicle even handle 80 amps of continuous output?
Not likely.
On my diesel the 100 amp alternator burned the 12gauge wire (2.3mm diameter) off the plug that goes to the alternator.
I rewired the alternator to use the a heavy duty output screw terminal, not the cheap plug and ripped out the 12gauge circuit that failed and replaced it with 6 gauge wire (4.1mm diameter) to the battery.
The largest OE wiring I have found on a normal vehicle appeared to be 8 gauge (3.3mm diameter).
The wire burned out because of the very short drive I had to work, during the winter. The batteries kept discharging deeper and deeper and after each time I started it and with each start the batteries drew more power than the previous time until something failed.

[fearone]

Originally Posted by oil pan 4

Here is a 180 amp alt. It only produces about 40 amps at idle.
See how the output drops like a lift with its cable cut near the bottom of its range.
It also depends on how much the alt is over driven. Idle can be as low as 650rpm and on diesels for some reason OEMs use a larger alt pulley. Sometimes giving a alt drive ratio as low as 1 engine rotation to 2 alternator rotations.


Then the problem is can the wiring in the vehicle even handle 80 amps of continuous output?
Not likely.
On my diesel the 100 amp alternator burned the 12gauge wire (2.3mm diameter) off the plug that goes to the alternator.
I rewired the alternator to use the a heavy duty output screw terminal, not the cheap plug and ripped out the 12gauge circuit that failed and replaced it with 6 gauge wire (4.1mm diameter) to the battery.
The largest OE wiring I have found on a normal vehicle appeared to be 8 gauge (3.3mm diameter).
The wire burned out because of the very short drive I had to work, during the winter. The batteries kept discharging deeper and deeper and after each time I started it and with each start the batteries drew more power than the previous time until something failed.

Note the graph shows alternator rpm not engine. Alternator rpm is likely 2.5 to 3.5 times engine rpm, depending on crank pully size.

[euromodder]

Originally Posted by TimV

Looking for coroplast to make the belly smoother. So far no luck of finding it in my little european country...

Kijk eens bij de noorderburen

de webshop voor kunststof platen, folie, buis en staf

Noemt daar kanaalplaat

[TimV]

Thanks!

Super. Now if i only had the time

You might wanne check this thread out

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by TimV

Got reaction back.
They suggest to find a used diff of the Ssangyong Kyron the automatic gearbox version. They have a diff of 3,54.

Gives me these speeds.




Would be a reduction of 17,09%.
Or a save of 7%?

There are other aspects to consider before messing with the diff ratio. An automatic can have a wider gear spread, and there is the multiplying effect from the torque converter. Sure a higher diff ratio increases the top speed and decreases revving at cruise, but the throttle response becomes slower and the performance on hilly terrain may be severely affected.

[TimV]

I only use first and second gear to leave at a stop. After that. I drive in 3 for a 90 degrees corner. 4 on roundabouts and 30km/h zones and 50km/h zones. And faster then 50 km/h, i use the top gear (5th gear).

So no problem if there would be a hilly terrain. Just downshift one gear

I should make an short vid of me riding and accelerating in lower rpms. To give an idea what 400Nm having under your right foot means



Today i filled up.

1242km (771miles) with 68,32l = 5,5l/100km = 47mpg
I drove 290km at 120km/h. Rest is at 100km/h.


Next tank would ruin my 90 days and 3 tank average. Cause it gonne contain 780km at 120km/h. Thats going to be an interesting number. Maybe 6,8l/100km?

[TimV]

Alright!

First part is in, and YES it is the coolant heater itself!

I have an amp meter, so i will try the glow plugs one by one out when the engine is ideling (14,5V) and see what Amps it draw, then count them all up

I think it will be arround 11-12Amps each, making it 500W @13,5V (lower Volt because the higher load on the alternator and losses in the cables)

I have had thouths about laying cables directly from the alternator to the coolant and oilpan heater. So the stock cabeling isn't touched. And lay a bridge from where i split the big diameter wire( where i seperate wires to the loads for heating) to the main stock fuse box. I readed somewhere that you can minimise electrical losses by upgrading the big wires,

[TimV]

Yesterday I got back from my holiday.

Find out, I got all the parts I need,in my mail box, to make my coolant heater work. So maybe thuesday I will start installing that.

Here is a pic of my speedometer and the fuel left in the tank.



Those 842km can be divided in following parts:

=> + 450km of driving 120km/h
=> + 200km of driving 130km/h
=> + 200km of driving 160 - 190km/h

If we look 2,5 years back.
Then I only reached 800km with a full tank and not driving faster then 120km/h!

So a big thumps up for that

2 years ago, I reached 1000km on one tank, and that was with driving with a maximum speed of 100km/h.

If I drive ecomodder style, I might be able to squeze 1100km out of this tank, knowing that I will be doing lots of cold engine short trips to the other side of the town

Will i be able to do this?