Dieselboy getting his goal with his heavy SUV!

[oldtamiyaphile]

If the fan is spinning at the same speed as the air rushing through the engine bay, it's not costing you anything.

Remember that a mechanical belt pulley system is a fairly efficient way to transfer power, compared to alternator>battery>fan.

If the fan is on a separate belt and you can delete it all together, you might see gains, if the fan pulley is on a serpentine belt, gains are less likely.

The results from mechanical to electric fan swaps have been mixed.

[TimV]

There is only 1 belt for all the accesories.

The fan is also spinning when the car is standing still and ideling...

[oldtamiyaphile]

But you should never be standing and idling

Anyway a diesel uses so little fuel at idle and the fan is going to be turning quite slowly so it's not really moving air so the gains are potentially miniscule. There have been a few threads here on electric fan swaps. The results were mixed so I've left my Jeep fan mechanical for the moment at least.

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by oldtamiyaphile

The results from mechanical to electric fan swaps have been mixed.

All the results I've seen were favorable to the e-fan. And the quicker warm-ups reducing the cold phase are not just beneficial for efficiency and comfort but also for decreasing emissions

[TimV]

Well. I went for it. I bought 2 x 12 inch electric fans that where in sale for 50€.

If it only net me 5% gain. Then it would be payed back in around slightly less then 1 year.

So this is getting interesting

I dont have the time to install it yet. Maybe close to the end of this month and otherwise it will be when i got back from hollyday. Mid februari

[TimV]

To lower the currentdraw from the alternator, i want to do a trick like some hypermilers are doing with there hybrid car.

Pushing some current in to the cars battery, but it is limited in this case. (dont have an electric motor pushing me around )
If this is succesful, i can go to an altdelete, or kill switch.

I have an 14,8V 26Ah battery. But i cant directly hook it to the cars battery. Maximum charged voltage is 16,8V and empty voltage (under load 10.8) 12V

Or i can hook it up to have a 29,6V 13Ah battery.
Maximum charged voltage is 33,6V and empty voltage (under load 21,6) 24V

Then i need some kind of step down module.

Otherwise, i can't charge it high enough, because charging it to only (lets say 15V) then it is only charged about 40 to 50%

The point is to grid charge this battery at home, and use it to lower the stress on the alternator. And thus maximizing fuel economy.

[TimV]

Because themperatures are still dropping and my scangauge is reporting that it cant hold the 90°C (194°F).

It holds around 88 a 89°C, witch isnt enough for me.

So step 1: Cut a cardboard template out



Make a copie of that template so you have 2 pieces:


Use 1 of the 2 left over parts from the cut up license plate holder and cut as big as possible part out.

Ziptie it in place:



Got some more blocked.

Tomorrew a testdrive

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by TimV

To lower the currentdraw from the alternator, i want to do a trick like some hypermilers are doing with there hybrid car.

Pushing some current in to the cars battery, but it is limited in this case. (dont have an electric motor pushing me around )
If this is succesful, i can go to an altdelete, or kill switch.

An alternator delete sounds too compromising, and I'm not sure if you could pass the inspection with this mod.

[TimV]

An alt delete is probably not going to happen.
The reason is that this car is the youngest one. And is the most reliable one. The car from my girlfriend is 22years old nissan sunny 1.4lx beater. (Not one time it was defect. But you never know.)

I aim going for an kill switch. And when the portable battery is empty. I switch the alt back on.

[TimV]

Where is the best/easyest place to tap an signal of the AC system?
This is to activate the electric fan when i turn on the AC.

Thanks