Measured my tire wear (20,000+ miles at elevated pressure - 44 PSI)

[euromodder]

Originally Posted by evilskillit

In the following NHTSA tests higher inflation resulted in shorter braking distances, tho hyperinflation was not tested.

In National Geographic's MegaFactories : Michelin, they had a test with a car with what they called overinflated tyres.

The car with the overinflated tyres took some 10m more to stop.
They called it a car length, but you could slide a car inbetween both cars, so it's 2 car lengths ... or about 10m.

The question then surfaces :
What are they referring to as overinflation.
- Inflating above the car manufacturer's specs ?
- Inflation above the tyre manufacturer's specs ?

Let's see if NatGeo or Michelin can clear up that issue


On good road surfaces, I've noticed bugger all difference in braking distance between 2.8 and 3.5 bar (41 and 51 psi). I'd definitely notice a 10m increase.

What does happen is that on pretty bad roads, braking distance is increased because the suspension is not able to keep good contact with the road - at over 100K miles, the shocks are wearing out.

[Varn]

I am going on two years on my VW. I am using 155 firestone winterforce tires.

My goal is to put them at 51 pounds, the rated sidewall pressure.

They are winter only tires that I ran all last summer expecting them to melt off when the air temps went to 95F. So far so good in regards to wearing straight across, I didnt use my calipers just a key. They are still straight.

One thing I might mention is that I chose a narrower tire than stock.

Why winter tires in Missouri? Good question. Our home 3 miles off a paved road. Probably 50 days a year the road is a mess. Wet or snow covered. Most neighbors either run horses or Four wheel drive.

It takes a lot of maintenance to keep tires at 50psi. they need checks before almost any road trip. I think it is worth it but it takes time nearly every week.

[oil pan 4]

Originally Posted by CapriRacer

Some passenger car tires have nylon cap plies (1 or 2). These are circumferential, under the tread area only, and resist growth in the tread area. You'll definitely find nylon cap plies in H and higher speed rated tires.

What are the general differences say between an LLR tire and an ultra high preformance all season V or higher speed rated tires?
The biggest difference I see in ultra high preformance class is soft rubber and low tread wear numbers.

[euromodder]

Originally Posted by Varn

It takes a lot of maintenance to keep tires at 50psi. they need checks before almost any road trip. I think it is worth it but it takes time nearly every week.

Maybe you have a slow leak ?

Mine stay at 51psi 3.5bar without a problem.
I'm checking them less often now, like only every couple months - or when winter sets in.

[euromodder]

Originally Posted by oil pan 4

What are the general differences say between an LLR tire and an ultra high preformance all season V or higher speed rated tires?

Rubber compound and thread pattern.
My LRR tyres are actually V and W rated


Ultra high performance and all season are sort of mutually exclusive, so the combination is mostly an American thing

[F8L]

I find it amusing when someone comes in here and starts screaming about how those who over inflate their tires are going to kill everyone and are a danger to society. They should channel their aggression towards people who run less than 4/32 tread on their tires. A tire with less than 4/32 tread depth is a heck of a lot more dangerous in wet weather than "overinflation".

[Varn]

Good question.
I have 4 vehicles including my trailer that I keep up. Seems like there is always loss. Maybe 2-10 pounds a month. Of course leaks sometimes develop. The last was a cut through the tread on my minivan. Probably from the loose rock on our road.

Originally Posted by euromodder

Maybe you have a slow leak ?

Mine stay at 51psi 3.5bar without a problem.
I'm checking them less often now, like only every couple months - or when winter sets in.

[CapriRacer]

Originally Posted by oil pan 4

What are the general differences say between an LLR tire and an ultra high preformance all season V or higher speed rated tires?
The biggest difference I see in ultra high preformance class is soft rubber and low tread wear numbers.

There is a technology triangle involving Rolling Resistance, Treadwear, and Traction (Grip). In order to get high values in one area, you have to sacrifice one or more of the other areas.

As a general rule, the higher the speed rating, the more "Grip" oriented the tire is - although there are plenty of exceptions.

So a Ultra High Performance all season tire will be geared away from RR and towards Grip (again, there are plenty of exceptions)

And everyone should be aware that "LRR" means relative to other similar tires - which means the same UTQG treadwear and traction ratings. It does NOT mean a low value in the absolute sense.

[johnhenry]

70,000 @ 44 PSI
Have measured tread depth at 4.9/32 and along with 4 years of age plan to buy a set of Yokohama AVID Ascend LRR tires to replace the originals in the next week or so. The wear is as even as you would want them to be on all four. With the extra summer heat and rain just feel better with new tires. The old tires have a wear rating of 260 and the new ones 740AA. Have an average MPG of 38.6 on the Honda civic lx and hoping to get better.

[MaxHedrm]

That reminds me ... it's time to get new tires for the TDI. But I can't decide if I wanna go all eco, or be more performance oriented. I guess I should start researching how much of a difference in mpg I could expect to see.