My 1991 Talon TSi Compound Turbo AWD

[Logic]

Originally Posted by freebeard

Best vehicle choice for this use case would be a Land Rover/Range Rover, Unimog or Crosley Farm-O-Road.

All have a PTO.

Sure. But pgfpro wants to use the PTO-less, 'Highly Mobile, Waste Acetone Incinerator' he already has (built)...

(Think about it:
If he's licensed as such; people pay him to heat his workshop/house..!
Plus he want's to be able to heat and electrify different houses/locations)

Hence the idea for a simple, easily movable (towable) ramp/generator doodat and possibly a (towable combo) 'sand/heat battery' for when you've had enough of the car's noise, or want to chat in the garage without freezing your arse off!

n Boer maak n plan!

[pgfpro]

Thanks, guys, for the posts.

The first one is just to see if it would work. Just a simple roller hub I got for free. It's very bulky though.

Now I'm making a crank unit that uses the AC factory pulley as a drive and an AC belt that goes to the generator driven pulley that will be under the car. It will have mounting brackets for the Camaro and the Talon.

Logic great idea on the sand box deal. I'm using a roller dyno exhaust flex pipe with a t-bolt clamp that clamps securely to the exhaust.

Now the next thing is to build a battery station and I'm still looking at possibly making a homemade battery's as you shown me in the videos you sent to me.

[Logic]

Originally Posted by pgfpro

Thanks, guys, for the posts.

The first one is just to see if it would work. Just a simple roller hub I got for free. It's very bulky though.

Now I'm making a crank unit that uses the AC factory pulley as a drive and an AC belt that goes to the generator driven pulley that will be under the car. It will have mounting brackets for the Camaro and the Talon.

Logic great idea on the sand box deal. I'm using a roller dyno exhaust flex pipe with a t-bolt clamp that clamps securely to the exhaust.

Now the next thing is to build a battery station and I'm still looking at possibly making a homemade battery's as you shown me in the videos you sent to me.

Glad you like the Ramp-Gen-Doodat idea.

Are you planning to just mount the gen to (underneath) the car's chassis when parked?


As far as the Sand Box goes:
Sand works great for storing heat at temperatures ABOVE the boiling point of water.
IF the exhaust is/has cooled down to below that at the tailpipe, water is hard to beat and can be drained out of the 'box' easily.
A thought needs to be given to keeping the heating tube loop 'downhill' so any condensed exhaust water will run out easily, avoiding rust issues.
That means that a copper plumbing heat exchanger doodat is probably a better bet.

Here's some BELOW BOILING TEMPERATURE research, with graphs, looking at sand, clay, water, etc:
https://www.researchgate.net/publica..._Water_Heaters

I NB that clay wins... for 2 hours, then its water all the way.

So above boiling: Clay or Sand.
Below boiling: Water.
A combo? Clay/Sand 1st in the HT bit, then water..?
Lots of hot water on hand could be handy!?
Choices-choises...?

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by freebeard

Best vehicle choice for this use case would be a Land Rover/Range Rover, Unimog or Crosley Farm-O-Road.

All have a PTO.

All have longitudinal engines. I don't remember having seen transverse-engined vehicles featuring a PTO.

[Logic]

Originally Posted by pgfpro

Doing some high boost 35psi plus testing with the new V3 Pre-Chamber.

Also of note here is that those valves are far from stock if my eyes aren't deceiving me:
The valve edges have been rounded = gas flowed?

Also the valve face has been hollowed out a bit? Using a lathe by the (conical) look of it?
If so; you might try fabricating a lathe attachment for a small angle grinder pgfpro:

If this is a valve in the lathe chuck: |----
You set the angle grinder up to come in at an oblique angle = to the 'dishing' you want, to do to get that perfect hemispherical combustion chamber.

Something like this: /|---- but with that '/ ' bit of grinder blade at the center of the valve.

I hope my 'graphics' get the idea across?

(Then you finish by hand, with sandpaper everyone)


What I don't get:
Unless that pre-chamber has it's own fuel injector; howTH do you get a rich charge into it, through that tiny little nozzle hole?

[Logic]

Originally Posted by pgfpro

Now the next thing is to build a battery station and I'm still looking at possibly making a homemade battery's as you shown me in the videos you sent to me.

If you really want to go cheap and DIY pgfpro; I have taken a very quick look at Zinc Hallide batteries.

Here's Zinc Bromine

But more interesting may be Zinc-Iodine Battery which seems to have a better energy density and Lugol's Solution is easy to get.

Challenges:
Dendrite growth. Possibly fixable with unglazed terracotta pots or air bricks or such.
ie: the ideal, ready made unglazed terracotta separator doodat has not yet been found.

Ideally you want to physically remove the Zinc electrode from the solution when not in use.
That requires some sort of mechanism.

So this is the kind of thing that needs space, but it can be outside.

It's nice that the battery can go to 100% discharge and stand for years without issue AND no chance of it ever bursting into flame!
Oh and did I mention cheap!

[pgfpro]

Originally Posted by Logic

Also of note here is that those valves are far from stock if my eyes aren't deceiving me:
The valve edges have been rounded = gas flowed?

Also the valve face has been hollowed out a bit? Using a lathe by the (conical) look of it?
If so; you might try fabricating a lathe attachment for a small angle grinder pgfpro:

If this is a valve in the lathe chuck: |----
You set the angle grinder up to come in at an oblique angle = to the 'dishing' you want, to do to get that perfect hemispherical combustion chamber.

Something like this: /|---- but with that '/ ' bit of grinder blade at the center of the valve.

I hope my 'graphics' get the idea across?

(Then you finish by hand, with sandpaper everyone)


What I don't get:
Unless that pre-chamber has it's own fuel injector; howTH do you get a rich charge into it, through that tiny little nozzle hole?

Great ideas on the valve cut. This head is the highly modified race head to achieve 1400HP. It has over size valves in it that have been flowed on a flow bench. We call it the 7/70 engine, meaning run 7 second 1/4 mile ET and also be able to get 70 mpg.

Like all my pre-chambers it's a Passive Pre-Chamber. So, it has a disadvantage of max lean burn due to feeding the pre-chamber. This is also the V3 version. The V4 version pre-chamber has been changed to add better flow of fuel to feed the pre chamber "not shown". The V4 version uses a technique that you found a posted in one of your videos. Thank you again for the video.

How both version work is on max mpg mode it runs with a single intake valve opening point and a single valve exhaust opening point with mpg cams and adjustable valve timing. In short it has one exhaust valve is delayed and one intake valve advanced to produce a cross flow towards center of the pre-chamber. The piston is sprayed guided along with the injector and intake port, put all this action together and it feeds the pre-chamber on the intake stroke. Then on the compression stroke the piston shape also due to its design centers advancing pressure to the center where the piston collection area below the pre chamber gets and keeps the fuel in the piston pocket. The factory piston oil coolers have been modified to cool the bottom of the pistons at center and on top the pre chamber is cooled by _________ and _______ for fuel captured cooling. Now an active pre chamber would eliminate all this fuss but the machining and cost goes up a ton, so I'm stuck with a passive type pre chamber. lol

[pgfpro]

One more thing I forgot to mention is when you get at a A/F ratio of 30:1 plus. the BSFC gets worse the leaner you get due to the reduced speed of the flame front. So, ignition advance is needed. Not good at the level I'm at due to the smallest amount workable cylinder pressure is now working against you. It's all about maximum cylinder pressure at optimum crank angle with a very low cylinder pressure BTDC and spark ignition as close to TDC as possible. The pre chamber helps a ton with this and my crutch N2O. This is why I'm working on an onboard hydrogen generator, so I don't have to use N2O as a flame accelerator.

The other item that plays a major role in all the schemes of things is my compression ratio. The CR is not what most people would think

[freebeard]

Great ideas on the valve cut.

When I was in high school, Rod & Custom had an excellent article on porting, and they called that tuliping. Here's an index if you care.

The Jalopy Journal
An Index of Rod & Custom Magazine - The Jalopy Journal
An Index of Rod & Custom Magazine. Posted by Ryan on July 26, 2016 and filed under: Customs, Feature Articles, History, Hot Rods. This is the work of a mad man. Essentially, it's an index of Rod & Custom Magazine features from May of 1953 until May of 1974. Each entry includes the feature title, the

Another reference if needed:

Speed-Talk.com
When to use a heavily tulip type valve? - Don Terrill's Speed-Talk
Wondering what port styles prefer nailhead type valves and what prefer a strong tulip. ... will benefit from the most cut down valve possible. Conversely, a high port having a fairly laminar flow around the valve (Smokey's reference to a perfect "cone" comes to mind), may benefit from a tulip if the throat

[Logic]

Originally Posted by pgfpro

Great ideas on the valve cut. This head is the highly modified race head to achieve 1400HP. It has over size valves in it that have been flowed on a flow bench. We call it the 7/70 engine, meaning run 7 second 1/4 mile ET and also be able to get 70 mpg.

Like all my pre-chambers it's a Passive Pre-Chamber. So, it has a disadvantage of max lean burn due to feeding the pre-chamber. This is also the V3 version. The V4 version pre-chamber has been changed to add better flow of fuel to feed the pre chamber "not shown". The V4 version uses a technique that you found a posted in one of your videos. Thank you again for the video.

How both version work is on max mpg mode it runs with a single intake valve opening point and a single valve exhaust opening point with mpg cams and adjustable valve timing. In short it has one exhaust valve is delayed and one intake valve advanced to produce a cross flow towards center of the pre-chamber. The piston is sprayed guided along with the injector and intake port, put all this action together and it feeds the pre-chamber on the intake stroke. Then on the compression stroke the piston shape also due to its design centers advancing pressure to the center where the piston collection area below the pre chamber gets and keeps the fuel in the piston pocket. The factory piston oil coolers have been modified to cool the bottom of the pistons at center and on top the pre chamber is cooled by _________ and _______ for fuel captured cooling. Now an active pre chamber would eliminate all this fuss but the machining and cost goes up a ton, so I'm stuck with a passive type pre chamber. lol

I came up with that means of optimizing valve/chamber shape (Tuliping. Thx freebeard) ages ago while gas flowing my Alpha Giulietta 2L head.
I miss that car! If I knew then what I know now..!

I'm getting my head around what you have said (and not! ) in the rest of your reply.
We'll chat more on that privately. But we are heading into territory where a picture (and gesturing) is worth a thousand words... (in a trustworthy ear!)

IIRC your compression ratio and AF ratio numbers aren't much different!? Hats off on that!

If I understand things correctly (with almost no research) the pre-chamber is basically about creating a very big 'spark' that lights more AF up faster, at a better crank angle closer to TDC, by setting fire to that separate mixture at a/the 'timing advance' that would otherwise be unworkable?
ie:
IF there was a way to create a VERY large spark (or 4...) one could do away with it..??

Hydrogen:
I NB that the previously discussed copper plating that creates a bit of H, more during/after the main combustion event, does not suffer from that drawback in a pre-chamber!

There are a good number of other possibilities for getting some 'free' H2 or Ozone type radicals out of an engine.
eg: A constant but separate (dioded) Ozone producing voltage (circuit) on the spark plug.
I'll get back to you on that when more of my vast multitude of ducks are in a row!
(I'm researching senescent cell clearance for my Mom (urgent) too atm, which is taking a lot of my free time)