My 1991 Talon TSi Compound Turbo AWD

[Logic]

Originally Posted by pgfpro

Got the FE modified intake mock upped. This Intake has the N20 system I use for FE to increase flame speed during extreme Lean-Burn 30:1. I'm going to use this during the drive part of Drag and Drive events. Then switch out the intake, injectors and T/B as a whole to the race manifold injectors and large T/B. Also, when I'm daily driving it or street driving during a Drag and Drive event I'll be using the rear 16-gallon pump gas fuel cell.

Also added front vertical bars to the front fenders. After calculating the down force, it had me worried so went ahead and added these bars. Once again, their mocked up and will have grade eight bolts and an added .1875 steel backing plate.

That looks like some really nice fabrication craftsmanship pgfpro.

I assume those suspension arms aren't plain old mild steel? Chrome Molly of some sort?

It looks like your intercooler is going to be behind the coolant radiator?
That doesn't seem optimal?

I love to see what the turbo intake looks like without the air filter.
Any Bell Mouth action there?

It's nice that you have all that extra space to work in/with.

[pgfpro]

Originally Posted by Logic

That looks like some really nice fabrication craftsmanship pgfpro.

I assume those suspension arms aren't plain old mild steel? Chrome Molly of some sort?

It looks like your intercooler is going to be behind the coolant radiator?
That doesn't seem optimal?

I love to see what the turbo intake looks like without the air filter.
Any Bell Mouth action there?

It's nice that you have all that extra space to work in/with.

Thank you.

You guessed it right. The arms are Chrome Molly.

The air to water intercooler will have an insulator wrap later in the build. I also run ice water in which the passenger side cell will hold the ice water. The ice water only last about 9.0 seconds on full wack before all the ice is melted. The air to water also has a second use during FE mode in which the water with no ice will be around 200*F IAT temps. This involves an exhaust heating coil.

The large 88mm turbo intake pipe will have one of my PGF crankcase pressure systems. It will have a two-stage water/oil separator. First stage water separator and the second stage an oil coalescing filter. It will also have a PGF N2O system with a 45* vortex nozzle.

The space is really nice but there is an issue with the hood and it not opening very far that is not sitting well with me. I think I'll ditch the hood hinge springs and modified the hinge to open almost straight up and down? The engine sets way back and it is a paint to get to now.

[Logic]

Originally Posted by pgfpro

Thank you.

You guessed it right. The arms are Chrome Molly.

The air to water intercooler will have an insulator wrap later in the build. I also run ice water in which the passenger side cell will hold the ice water. The ice water only last about 9.0 seconds on full wack before all the ice is melted. The air to water also has a second use during FE mode in which the water with no ice will be around 200*F IAT temps. This involves an exhaust heating coil.

Man! I wish I could see all this with my own eyes!

Originally Posted by pgfpro

The large 88mm turbo intake pipe will have one of my PGF crankcase pressure systems. It will have a two-stage water/oil separator. First stage water separator and the second stage an oil coalescing filter. It will also have a PGF N2O system with a 45* vortex nozzle.

Are you pulling a vacuum in the crankcase?
Or is this ...er... more complicated, involving 'intake and exhaust' reed valves?

Originally Posted by pgfpro

The space is really nice but there is an issue with the hood and it not opening very far that is not sitting well with me. I think I'll ditch the hood hinge springs and modified the hinge to open almost straight up and down? The engine sets way back and it is a paint to get to now.

Ye getting at stuff and wishing you had 4 arms is a feeling I know all too well!
Finding someone with the gumption to lend hands that do the right thing and anticipate the required tool to pass etc is near impossible.

The bit of bonnet I can see looks interesting too?

[pgfpro]

Originally Posted by Logic

Man! I wish I could see all this with my own eyes!



Are you pulling a vacuum in the crankcase?
Or is this ...er... more complicated, involving 'intake and exhaust' reed valves?



Ye getting at stuff and wishing you had 4 arms is a feeling I know all too well!
Finding someone with the gumption to lend hands that do the right thing and anticipate the required tool to pass etc is near impossible.

The bit of bonnet I can see looks interesting too?

Yes, pulling a small amount of vacuum. Pretty much a simple system that starts at the cold air intake pipe between the air cleaner and turbo with a 10AN line that go to an oil scrub then to the water trap and oil separator that goes to another oil scrub at the top of the valve cover.

It does take a minimal amount of HP but it doesn't amount to much when on full wack.

[Logic]

Originally Posted by pgfpro

...

Just Video I think you'll enjoy on how and where to get metal (Inconel, Titanium, etc) parts 3D printed and the whole series is just damn good engineering and fabrication in general.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJtX_xwq_4M

IMHO a 13B Rotary in an (overheating) BMW i8 is a great idea and it fits fortuitously well.


Also, assuming you're still thinking about that acetone powered combined heat and power (CHP) system for your home, this guy has some info on open source electrics etc.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zikb94dxlTM

[pgfpro]

Originally Posted by Logic

Just Video I think you'll enjoy on how and where to get metal (Inconel, Titanium, etc) parts 3D printed and the whole series is just damn good engineering and fabrication in general.

IMHO a 13B Rotary in an (overheating) BMW i8 is a great idea and it fits fortuitously well.


Also, assuming you're still thinking about that acetone powered combined heat and power (CHP) system for your home, this guy has some info on open source electrics etc.

Once again you killed it on information. Thank you so very much.

I do have a lot of people asking to replicate my setup for their car and a truck. This could be my answer.

One more thing I'm looking at building a team moving forward. I would like to definitely include you. I will send you a PM later next month.

[Logic]

Originally Posted by pgfpro

Once again you killed it on information. Thank you so very much.

I do have a lot of people asking to replicate my setup for their car and a truck. This could be my answer.

One more thing I'm looking at building a team moving forward. I would like to definitely include you. I will send you a PM later next month.

I'm glad you found the info so useful pgfpro.
I look forward to the PM!

[pgfpro]

UPDATE:

Thanks to a few of you here I have finally figure out my home fuel generator.
If SHTF the Talon will be the generator with a very simple wheel hub coupler. While generating electricity it will also be making heat for the house sitting in the garage from the ICE during the winter months and during Summer, I'll move the Talon outside and plug in to the house.

I'm also finishing up a carburetor and points style ignition in case of an EMP. I have a faraday box that has three sets of electronics ECU CAS etc.

I have a bug out spot with stored fuel and supplies that requires an AWD vehicle to get to, with Talon having adjustable coil overs and blizzaks this will be no problem.

[Logic]

Originally Posted by pgfpro

UPDATE:

Thanks to a few of you here I have finally figure out my home fuel generator.
If SHTF the Talon will be the generator with a very simple wheel hub coupler. While generating electricity it will also be making heat for the house sitting in the garage from the ICE during the winter months and during Summer, I'll move the Talon outside and plug in to the house.

I'm also finishing up a carburetor and points style ignition in case of an EMP. I have a faraday box that has three sets of electronics ECU CAS etc.

I have a bug out spot with stored fuel and supplies that requires an AWD vehicle to get to, with Talon having adjustable coil overs and blizzaks this will be no problem.

??!
So jack up 1 wheel and attach a generator using the wheel nuts and a flex coupling!?

For people not 'allergic' to spanners; You cant beat that for simplicity!
But your diff's pinion gears, that normally don't rotate much at all (only in corners) will be spinning constantly and fast. That may not be good for diff longevity..?
Then there's the doubling of that one spinning wheel's rpm to consider...

Perhaps an extra pulley on the front of the engine's crank and a ramp/gen doodat:
ie: Pull the car onto the ramp/gen doodat. (with placement indents for the wheels)
Pull the nose down a bit against the suspension with a lever arrangement.
Pop on the belt and release the 'down pull' to tension the belt using the car's suspension.

Now you have electricity without turning the drivetrain = more efficient and less wear-n-tear.
And still an easily moveable ramp/generator contraption.
(Might wear out your release bearing if you want to keep the whole gearbox still. A great place to test out that Boric Acid jiggery-pokery! )


Whats the plan with the exhaust?
Some sort of 'quick coupling' from the exhaust to that flexible metal piping, leading outside?

A thought: (for later)
A couple of coils of that flex tube in a box of sand gives you a sand battery so you can store exhaust heat for later when the engine's off.
As the box is inside the space you want to warm; no insulation required. You could just blow a house fan at/over it if you felt like it.

[freebeard]

Best vehicle choice for this use case would be a Land Rover/Range Rover, Unimog or Crosley Farm-O-Road.

All have a PTO.