Paul and Sabrina's Cheap 3 Phase Inverter (AC Controller) with Field Oriented Control

[freebeard]

I've been looking around.


http://www.carscoops.com/2011/09/buick-launces-eassist-version-of.html

The starter/generator is liquid cooled and has its own radiator and electric pump. The small radiator is mounted behind the engine coolant radiator near the top. The pump is operated with a relay that controls the power side of the pump circuit. It’s a simple on/off circuit, so the pump has only one speed. The coolant temperature sensor is a familiar negative-temperature-coefficient (NTC) thermistor connected to the control module’s 5-volt reference signal, but it’s built into the starter/generator and cannot be replaced.

https://macsworldwide.wordpress.com/...oling-systems/

Potential gotcha in italics.

If it it center-mounted like a Porsche alternator, there might be room to run a jackshaft past to the stock fan. Else there is the Type III crank-mounted fan.

If that long junction box can lay flat face down against the top of the case it would make a tidy install and route the wiring forward without impeding the cooling.

How are the motorcycle conversions going? I was reminded when I saw this on JACG:


http://justacarguy.blogspot.com/2017/03/a-new-thing-for-me-to-see-on-back-of.html

[HaroldinCR]

That cutaway photo is the early model Gen 1. It has small magnets jammed between the rotor claws and is very under powered for it's designated use. You trying to build an E-assist system ?

You want the Gen 2 like in the video you posted.
Later today I will start a new thread with actual testing info sent to me from Spain.

Hopefully we can get the info from this thread transferred or copied to the new thread.

I'm up to my eyeballs in projects and hampered by the rainy season just getting started. Have not even ridden my home built moto this year or worked on the reverse trike.

[freebeard]

We're just coming out of our too-cold-to-spray-paint season.

If your source in Spain can provide specifics, how about the dimensions — overall and the mounting points. Then I could mock up something and fit it to a spare engine I have on the bench.

[foxgrockefeller]

Seems that motor is putting out roughly 23hp and 5 ft/lb torque according to the difference from year to year, does that sound about right?
Buick’s 37mpg 2012 LaCrosses with eAssist Priced at $30,820, New V6 with 303HP also Available

Nevermind, wiki has the answer!
At the LA Auto Show, on November 15, 2010, General Motors announced that it would be releasing an all-new version of the BAS system available in the 2012 Buick LaCrosse.[8] While still a Belted Alternator Starter system, the system is named eAssist and includes a larger more powerful Hitachi-supplied[citation needed] 115 Volt Lithium Ion battery and a 15 kW (20 hp) motor-generator that delivers 79 lb·ft (107 N·m) of torque.

Are these sold in america?! If so, seems like a great way to either hybrid your gasser or turn a motorcycle/scooter or hella fast bicycle!

[freebeard]

There's one on the lot downtown; and I agree (except the bicycle part).

[kalidasbala]

Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes

OK the Kp 41,000 is way too big. It is probably resulting in some overflows in software. Are you sure that was the result of a PI test? It is supposed to stop at like 17,000 or something like that. I better check the code on that. Stick with The 3333, 50 for this second. It is most likely too small of a value, since the lower the voltage the higher the Kp and Ki required, but let's just see if they work for now.

reconfigure the throttle.

For throttle, if minimum is 300 and maximum is 600, do the following:

max-regen-position 300
min-regen-position 400
min-throttle-position 500
max-throttle-position 600

That will give a good sized deadzone of 401 to 499. Then, if the throttle will stay naturally in the dead zone (no spring pulling it to zero?), type the following:

stream-idref 1
stream-iqref 1
stream-id 1
stream-iq 1
stream-percent-volts 1
stream-raw-throttle 1
stream-mechanical-speed 1
data-stream-period 1000

Then, slowly give it some throttle until it gets into the 500-600 range. Does it spin? Let data stream for a second while in that range. Could you post that data? It can be saved to file, and pasted into excel (comma delimited), or you coudl just get a screenshot of the streaming data.

EDIT: You found a software bug in the run-pi-test! I'm going to fix that.

Is the fix for the bug upload to git? or is it possible to upload it somewhere so that I can pick it up.

[HaroldinCR]

HEY GUYS. New thread started in this same fossil fuel free forum, about the E-assist altermotor. PLEASE refrain from adding more posts to Pauls thread. It was breaking up the flow of Pauls information. I have sent a message to MODERATORS to please move all E-assist info from page 305-308 to the NEW THREAD.

Hopefully we can have the same very knowledgable people join in on helping us get a usable controller working for this altermotor.

Thanks for y'alls respect for Pauls Thread. Harold

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tor-35003.html

[thingstodo]

Originally Posted by arber333

Its been a while. I got AB encoder on my motor and want to test it.
https://www.rls.si/products/rotary-m...r-tooth-sensor
Its like you said 5V - 24V powered magnetic encoder. How did you separately power it? So did you uncouple + 5v wire on encoder harness and use 24V?

My encoder uses an 8 pin round, so I had to make an adapter anyway. I connected the grounds together, using the 24V that powers the controller board (Paul's 12V/24V DC/DC converter) to power the encoder. When I first connected the grounds together, I did the connection with a 1K resistor first and I checked for current flow in case it caused an issue. This power scheme seems to work OK.

I can also use cars 13.8Vdc.

I would avoid an unfiltered power supply. I have not blown up an encoder as yet, but I have killed many a piece of electronics by connecting it to 13.8V in an car. It's a noisy, nasty power supply at best. A small DC/DC supply is well worth it.

What kind of resistors did you use for pullup to get good signal?

I had 1K and .. 5K2 I think .. kicking around my bench. The input current to the micro is not really noticeable. My target was 4.5V, I calculated 4.6V and I measured just over 4.4V. The resistors are +/- 5%. I think the current was under 4 mA.

Do you have 1K resistors from connector to chip pins or did you remove them? How do they interact?

I have 1K resistors in series with the chip inputs. I don't recommend *EVER* removing the series resistors from chip inputs. Even for testing. My clumsiness translates to shorted pins ... and letting out the magic smoke! My scope probes are a bit big to clip onto the chip pins, so I measured on the resistor. 4.4V was enough.

It seems my inverter does not want to run run-rotor-test command....

It's a journey ... keep eliminating barriers and you'll get there!

[MPaulHolmes]

I just got back from Washington/Oregon. More fun than a barrel of monkeys! A couple days ago we got the Nissan Leaf fixed (I added a metal side sheet metal thing to replace the smashed one), then I drove it up to Mesa, which was like 45 miles away (freeway speeds the whole time). They changed the title from "salvage" to "not salvage" haha. So then we got the license plates, and stuff like that yesterday.

I don't have batteries right now for the solar, so my plan was to dump the MPPT. Just before heading up to washington, I added 4 more panels to bring the total up to 24 at 280watt each. Now the open circuit voltage is around 510v or so. So, now I'm just going to feed that right to the inverter, and I'll just reduce the PWM duty so it stays constant at 340v peak to peak for the waveforms. That way, depending on load, the solar voltage will be all over the place, but it won't matter as long as it doesn't sag below 340v. So that will mean I can use the panels at whatever power I need up to their maximum power until the sun goes down. That's good enough until I can get a battery pack. Ideally I would just charge the friggen leaf pack with the chademo port, but they charge a ridiculous sum for the connector. Alternatively, I was going to add anderson connectors underneath the hood in parallel with the "stupid $9,000,000,000 connector".

[freebeard]

They changed the title from "salvage" to "not salvage" haha.

I always thought that was a one-way street.