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Old 07-09-2013, 09:50 AM   #61 (permalink)
Mark Weisheimer
 
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The project is really looking good!

I use a US$10 tool that is made for Molex connector pins.
It does a very similar crimp using the AMPSEAL pins, and so far as I can tell, it looks perfect.

Edit:

here is a link...but it ain't US$10...It is US$20!
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/21-3000


Last edited by Weisheimer; 07-09-2013 at 10:12 AM.. Reason: link to the tool
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:18 AM   #62 (permalink)
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sometimes , solder works. where crimp er's ,are not handy, can take a big iron.

16ohm question, did you read the data sheet? what part number, there are over 7.

the LV100, (at random) shows how the thing works.
http://documents.tycoelectronics.com...EV100_0908.pdf

the contacts are surrounded by and inert gas, preventing oxidation.
they contacts, are in miliohms, not OHMs.
it is not a SSR.
or is that what you are talking about, and SSR.? give p/n. and answers get better\


this
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Old 07-11-2013, 01:51 PM   #63 (permalink)
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My question was: "is 16 ohm the final value for both turn on and turn off gate resistance" - that is still not proper electronic term, I should have asked about IGBT gate resistors values...

As for Tycos: some of high current DC contactors use permanent magnets to "blow off" arc, they are polarity sensitive (an example can be found in Toyota hybrid battery packs). It seems like Kilovac family doesn't use this method, I was mistaken by terms "positive/negative terminal" on page 2 of this datasheet.
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Old 07-12-2013, 08:51 AM   #64 (permalink)
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Contactors:
it clearly states that, and is part of the design, for good reasons.
although, real contactors (with contacts) are non polar, at the contacts (basics on low current parts),
electrons do flow and with them, the metal moves (migrates), with them. minus to plus. and some makers (and above)
of some DC contacts, are engineered for some to be more robust contacts, on the minus terminal.
There are issues with switching hot and plasma effects. (the mag, blow off arc, deal)
This would, show up and "recommended Plus side here" as per above....
when designing with parts is best to read the product applications guides, to see their methods.
Nothing beats an example, for sure.

the contacts are 0 ohm. (metal to metal) (milli-ohm rated)

IGBT is a silicon transistor and a totally different product, and design, not in the least simular.

this device , has a parameter called Vce (sat) this is voltage drop, and at a specific current can be expressed in ohms, using R= E/I .
this Drop , makes big time heat. at large currents P = I squared, times R

if talking about real IGBTs please state , the make and part number, there are 100s . we can discuss each parameter.

Crimps. (huge) (small can be soldered easy, large takes , huge irons)
and tools, if using and crimping high connectors, they do make a tool (cheaper) that uses a hammer.
it's a set if dies, and you hit it,. (for the high current battery feed connections)
state the exact pn. of connector, make and /pn. so we can do proper research on that.
AMPSseal. (the real tool is $400 or more, )
but there are these
S & G Tool Aid 18920 Ratcheting Terminal Crimping Kit- 5 Piece - Amazon.com
i just hand soldered 25 ampseal conn's, last night, 770,series, i'ts tedious but finished the job, not waiting a week for mail. etc.


igbt, at random
200amp the ,6 pack.
http://www.infineon.com/dgdl/ds_fs20...335963ee7908dd
the VCE sat is about 2 volts, this equates to about 2v at 200 amps or about 0.1 ohms
but the power dissipated in that 2v drop is 400 watts, so needs cooling, at that current. or it may overheat.
heat sinking is a more complex topic, for sure.
good luck to you
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Old 07-15-2013, 02:32 AM   #65 (permalink)
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The land yacht lives
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Now, Cole, when you shift the gear and that little needle on the ammeter goes into the red and reads 2000 Amps, that's bad.
www.evbmw.com
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:46 AM   #66 (permalink)
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a beauty !
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Old 07-16-2013, 02:22 AM   #67 (permalink)
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So which component is whining non-stop while it was powered up, and will it do so under full voltage?
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Old 07-16-2013, 04:55 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackbauer View Post
The land yacht lives
Congrats !

I had to quote the message to see the link though ...

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Old 08-19-2013, 11:51 AM   #69 (permalink)
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So Today I set about removing the yacht's final vestige of petroleum addiction. I called my old friend Dr.Gordon Freeman at the Black Mesa Research Facility who suggested this approach
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Now, Cole, when you shift the gear and that little needle on the ammeter goes into the red and reads 2000 Amps, that's bad.
www.evbmw.com
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Old 08-19-2013, 01:34 PM   #70 (permalink)
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A PLASTIC DAISY WOULD DO, the door spring will hold it.. gas door.
or a tigers tail. showing you really do have a tiger in your tank. Electric tiger.


the buzz, to posters questions.
it's all a DC setup, DC motor. and is driven via a PWM controller.
The buzz you here is the PWM pulses. just like a Golf cart, or a 200 HP electric train.
On my mates Cart, at wide open throttle, the battery is direct connected, and buzz ends.

they all buzz. The Pulses cause huge current spikes and those spikes, make huge magnetic pulses in the motor.
This makes noise, and is very hard to reduce, for a long list of reasons.
Ever listen to a 60hz transformer (or 50) hum.? same deal.
On air craft (MIL) we have huge 400cycle A.C power. and it make 400hz tone all the time.
After awhile, you just dont hear it.
thanks for vid.

mod 3?
the 520I
to 500e (0liters) 0 liter electric.


Last edited by jtgh; 08-19-2013 at 01:45 PM..
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