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Old 06-27-2015, 08:00 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I reach full temperature in 1 mile. Thanks. I so want to get a mirage like you. Thanks old mechanic.

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Old 06-27-2015, 08:05 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Pulse and coast in neutral (engine on) as much as you can. Learn your traffic patterns and try to hit every light when it's green. Even with a cold engine coasting in neutral can get you great mileage. If it takes longer to warm up, then you know you are wasting less heat energy.

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Old 06-27-2015, 09:05 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by worthrj View Post
tires to 44 psi with nitrogen.
Considering normal air is mostly nitrogen, don't go out of your way or pay for nitrogen.

Just the fact that other people drive your car makes it very difficult to notice MPG changes. The mods you've done shouldn't be expected to make a massive difference, so not seeing any change doesn't mean they're not helping.
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Old 06-28-2015, 04:26 AM   #14 (permalink)
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+1 to what vskid3 just added. It seems without the mods your mileage could have been lower. But something you can do in the heat at those lights, is turn on air recirculation, keep the ac on, and shut the car off. Residual "cool" in the ac system will keep the air cool for 30 seconds or more. And using recirc will keep fresh humid air from outside... out. Good reading of the vacuum gauge will help. Use of DWB might be hurting you a little, if your car does not have DFCO. Try neutral coasting to a stop sometimes instead of coasting in gear, which seems maybe what you're doing?
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Old 06-29-2015, 04:49 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I'm not totally familiar with that generation of 1ZZ-FE engine, but I would think there is a fair amount of loss via the automatic transaxle. I wonder if a rebuilt one from the Tercel might be a possible retro fit. Also certain MY 1NZ-FE throttle body may mate to the intake manifold. The fuel injectors from the 1NZ-FE should mate up if you can find the correct fuel rail adapters.
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Old 06-30-2015, 10:54 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Yeah. That short commute is killing your average.

"1 mile to full temp" doesn't include a warm transmission, warm bearings, etc, plus it's taking you 20% of your commute to get to operating temperature.

I'd say a block heater would help you if you want to go higher.

Sam
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Old 06-30-2015, 11:03 AM   #17 (permalink)
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There are electric cars available for $1500 and up that aren't too old

For THAT commute (especially in the winter) you would save the most by having an EV, that said purchase cost would take eons to make up in gas savings for just the commute.
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Old 07-06-2015, 10:28 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2009Toyotoad View Post
I'm not totally familiar with that generation of 1ZZ-FE engine, but I would think there is a fair amount of loss via the automatic transaxle. I wonder if a rebuilt one from the Tercel might be a possible retro fit. Also certain MY 1NZ-FE throttle body may mate to the intake manifold. The fuel injectors from the 1NZ-FE should mate up if you can find the correct fuel rail adapters.
It is a 94. It has a 7A-FE.


The gauges on the 7th gen corollas and the equivalent prizm will lie to you, I only count it as warmed up when the fans are cycling on periodically and can only reach that when I'm making power. I noticed that my engine seems to be warming up a bit quicker when I changed my spark plugs (supposedly these engines hate anything that isn't denso or NGK) but I'm thinking that it won't be spark plugs but the transmission warm up settings. The 6th gen corolla with 4 speed automatic at least wouldn't go into 4th and lockup until the coolant was above a certain temperature.
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Old 07-07-2015, 02:44 AM   #19 (permalink)
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You might like to look up Dalton's Law. It has to do with gas diffusion.
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Old 07-07-2015, 04:10 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Mechanic View Post
Pulse and coast in neutral (engine on) as much as you can. Learn your traffic patterns and try to hit every light when it's green. Even with a cold engine coasting in neutral can get you great mileage.
regards
mech
This is probably true most of the time. However, I wouldn't do this without proper instrumentation. I often see cases with my Honda where I would actually be better off "soft gliding" with fuel cut off rather than coasting in neutral. Especially with a cold engine the mpg I get while coasting in neutral can be surprisingly low.

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