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Old 09-20-2018, 12:03 AM   #81 (permalink)
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Old 09-20-2018, 01:13 AM   #82 (permalink)
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MPG will “work” with an engine up to about 400-cid. And the usual changes to breathe freely. In cars below 5000-lbs, 20-mpg was achievable under 60-mph. (IOW, a V8-413 Dodge, but not a V8-440).

Tow engines were all about TQ at cruise rpm. Gearing was set such that highway speeds were just below peak torque (2800-3200 rpm). Thus if one needed to accelerate, it was easy to do so.

Economy is about highest relative compression ratio exactly matched with camshaft profile and TQ converter stall speed. This is where expertise matters. Can’t really expect to pull it off without a template to copy. Tight quench area also. Low rpm engines under a load are prone to detonation and pre-ignition. The bigger the motor, the easier it is to solve for power.

On highway, keeping a steady pace wasn’t so much about vehicle weight as it was aero drag. And the possibility of more gears than a 3-speed automatic is where drivetrain can be further finessed.

Needed is vehicle weight from a certified scale. The genuine tire rolling height. Guesses will degrade outcome.

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Old 09-20-2018, 02:54 AM   #83 (permalink)
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A few of the questions I have not been able to find answers: The 1990 Cadillac cam: was it straight up or as I have heard tweaked, either advance or retarded?? Every time I look into replacement cams they always push the torque peek upward, anyone know of a good (or) better cam??

And is the any problem running it any of the lower gears for a long time such as I figure I will be doing with he 8L90??

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Old 09-20-2018, 02:56 AM   #84 (permalink)
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I also am aware that a number of engines like the OLDs 403, and the Chevy 400 ran torque peeks at 2000 RPMs, so I am not so "out there."
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Old 09-20-2018, 08:55 AM   #85 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racprops View Post
From all I have read about MPG I come up with two ways SMALL and LIGHT with small motor, to make them work they run higher RPM.

But I am driving a BIG van, big in wind resistance (pushing a box though the air) and heavy.

The trick seems to be a big TORQUE motor. There is a reason diesels are used on big rigs, TORQUE.
The whole "torque is what gets you down the road" is something I take issue with, at least to some degree.

Let's say you have two engines, a 200 putting out 200 ft-lbs of torque and maxing out at 6000rpm, and a 400 putting out 400ft-lbs but with a (for the sake of argument) very low redline of 3000rpm. Both peak a little over 200 horsepower, but the larger engine does so at half the RPM.

If you put the 200 on a 2:1 reduction gear, torque to the wheels will be effectively identical to the 400ci engine. It will spin two times for every one time the larger engine spins, firing twice, and having twice the mechanical advantage and producing the same torque and horsepower at the wheels.

The smaller engine will have more friction from spinning faster (this goes up exponentially, not linearly). The larger engine will have more friction from physically larger and heavier parts with more load placed on them. Neither one will be inherently more or less efficient. Both can be equally drivable.

What's going to improve efficiency are two things: 1) Keeping the engine as highly loaded as possible while driving, which means having a very wide selection of gears with a very tall final, and 2) having an engine design that is very efficient, big or small.

More RPM means lower economy, because friction goes up dramatically with rpm. But, with the same gearing, more torque also means lower economy, because engine load drops. So you want both small displacement AND low rpm.

All engines have an amount of power they make most efficiently. That amount will be larger on larger engines. While you can affect them to some (small) degree by changing things like cams, there are a lot of factors you can't as easily change such as bore to stroke ratio, piston velocity, displacement, sidewall loading, etc. Ultimately you want to match the engine to your vehicle whose most efficient power output is closest to the most typical power output you need, and there's almost certainly a stock engine somewhere which does what you need.

A great example to enumerate this would be a Ferrari following a Prius around a race track. With the Prius engine running at its very limits, the Ferrari will probably deliver better economy. Change the driving conditions though, such as to typical commuting, and the tables turn.

Honda's goal with the Insight was the smallest, slowest spinning engine possible - in this case 1L / 60ci. There are a handful of people on Insight Central who can reliably squeeze 100-140mpg out of these cars with careful driving and high tire pressure. There are far more people who average only 50's, just due to different driving patterns.

I guess if I can summarize my thoughts, it would be that you can get what you're looking for out of either a small or large engine, but in practice it's easier from a small(er) engine, so long as you don't go too small.
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Old 09-20-2018, 09:53 AM   #86 (permalink)
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Well the LS1 that came out in 1997 it didn't use atkinson cycle and it was 36% efficient at 2000 rpm under load. Combine that with the fact that all of the LS cars from 97 to now use the same 0.50 final drive ratio and only turn 1500 rpm on the highway and pretty much all of them will get 30 mpg or more at 70 mph if you try. Honestly if you can stay out of first and follow skip shift at a steady speed they get great gas mileage.
Consider at the time the Honda insight was only 38.5% thermal efficiency and was pretty much then the benchmark.
Hell my 2010 Prius runs atkinson and only makes a third of the horsepower and still only gets 41 on the interstate at 70 mph.
EPA ratings are weird because I feel like hybrids are cheating, and normal cars will always get a pinch better performance than their rating.
http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc...=rep1&type=pdf
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Old 09-20-2018, 10:07 AM   #87 (permalink)
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I have tried a couple of changes in the past, at one point being totally fed up with the high wearing out of Chevy engines, mainly valve guilds and seals plus the cylinder wear. I had a friend whom was totally surprised by the Chevy’s need for a ridge cutter to remove pistons, he was a Cadillac and OLDs fan and with those engines such cylinder wear was unknown…I learned it was due to the use of high nickel in the engine block…and have learned how to spot some Chevy engines with higher nickel.

The point is back in the early 90s I put a used OLDs 350 into my then 1998 Chevy van. It worked fine until it lost a rocker arm on a trip to Chicago. It limped home and I asked for another OLDs 350, but my friend was sold out and he offered me a 305 OLDs.

WOW was THAT a mistake….MPG dropped big time and on trips I was getting honked at by big rigs claiming mountains as I had to use second gear to get up the hills and was slower than them and I was in the way so had to pull over to let them pass.

AT this point I was planning on a 403 OLDs when I discovered a site called 3rd Gen. Camaros and about TPI and how great these fuel injection systems are, and sadly there were no TPI for the OLDs engine and I don’t think even fuel injection system for these old engines.

So I then bought my 93 TBI 350 with a four speed auto with OD and planed on swapping in a TPI someday. That someday did not happen until now.

So I came up about the same thing you were talking about a large engine running slow. And I felt a 350 might be a little small so feel a stroked 350 with a 400 crank making a 383 would work better.

So this is my plan at this time…
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Old 09-20-2018, 10:58 AM   #88 (permalink)
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Here are a couple more things I am working on. I wonder how much difference it will make as the TPI system is a Batch Fire system VS a sequence injection system. One point for the batch firing its fuel may vaporize a little more sitting behind a hot intake valve?? I have considered running the LAST OBDI Chevy ECM which was sequence injected BUT would have to add the omispark system and wonder if it is worth it and I believe the add on board will not fit these ECMs.


BUT having such a tunable system made even better by the add on bard I feel will offset these small loses due to batch firing and the add-on board even helps with that by adjusting for low RPM injection…

This board has the lean burn settings with caused me so much interest when people on the 3rd Gen site claimed getting 35MPG with these 80 Camaros. AND this board allows complete adjustment of this feature…so I can FINE tune all ranges of fuel and timing, so I can fine tune for low RPM MPG and tune for power in mid and high range.

Running an OLD fuel flow and VSS mileage computer should allow my doing this fine tuning and I have a great OBDI scanner to also monitor the system. I also plan on adding an air fuel ration system, and exhaust temperature monitor.

Using such system allow me to do testing on a 2000 Mercury Grand Marques which I tried a bunch of MPG devices and systems, and found the only improvement was a lean burn and at 16.1 AFR the car was able to get 35 MPG at 65MPH.

The stock MPG was 30 MPG at 65 MPH with this car and yes I really tested that by a 300 mile run on I10 from Phoenix to the CA state line and back. And other MPG runs…This car runs at around 1700 RPMs at that speed.

I was totally surprised by this car when I learned that even with overhead cams the red line was 5000, and by how powerful it was and even more when I figured out a 4.6 is SMALLER than the old Ford 289CI motors (They are 281CI) yet feel like most 350 Chevys I have owned.

The big surprise was when I had to replace the intake manifold and discovered a TPI on all of these Ford 4.6s. It is upside down.

I feel these cars proved my ideas.
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Old 09-20-2018, 12:02 PM   #89 (permalink)
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What you want and need is Desktop Dyno and Desktop Dragstrip.


DeskTop Dyno5 Main Page

DeskTop Drag Main Page

They have other products also.

ProRacing Sim, LLC., Software Products Page


I have used both of those programs to great success.

They allow you to try any combo without the expense of trial and error.

Both are highly accurate and are worth every penny in my opinion.





>
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Old 09-20-2018, 12:57 PM   #90 (permalink)
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Raceprops,
If you want a gas engine with torque down low like a diesel, I would suggest you find a 8.1L out of a 2001-2007 Chevy/GMC 2500HD, 3500, Van, Suburban, Avalanche, etcetera. They are cheap in junkyards, and low mileage examples can be found. I have one of those engines in my 2001 2500HD heavy hauling/ towing rig. That engine makes unbelievable torque right off idle basically flat torque curve from 1000 right to 4000 rpm. My 8.1L 2500HD Allison 5 speed always got better gas mileage (11-14) than my 1991 K2500LD (10-12) with the TBI 5.7l when it had the 4l60e despite the former being being dimensionally larger, way heavier, worse 4.10 gearing, wider tires, etcetera. Despite the internet lore the 8.1L is a great engine.

For fuel economy I would put a Tremec 6 speed manual behind one with the 0.5 overdrive, tallest rear end gears possible, and "lug" it as it can handle it fine.

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