04-19-2012, 01:19 PM
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#21 (permalink)
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Ultimate Fail
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What's your advice on the Freon issue, guys ?
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Today
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04-19-2012, 02:43 PM
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#22 (permalink)
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Cyborg ECU
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cd
Which is more harmful to the Environment, replacing the freon or using the freon already within the car ? Thanks.
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Given that, as you say, the shop you pay might just illegally dispose of the stuff, if the freon still works effectively and there is no leak then it seems to me that leaving well-enough alone is the best eco-strategy for now. Easiest on the wallet too.
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See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.
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04-19-2012, 04:56 PM
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#23 (permalink)
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Ultimate Fail
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Legally, the shop is supposed to contain the hazardous gas and dispose of it in an environmentally correct way.
I wonder how many shops actually do this though.
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04-19-2012, 04:59 PM
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#24 (permalink)
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Rat Racer
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I've never seen anyone at our shop wanting the freon "rotated." We have had some wanting their leaky system refilled without being fixed, though.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheepdog44
Transmission type Efficiency
Manual neutral engine off.100% @∞MPG <----- Fun Fact.
Manual 1:1 gear ratio .......98%
CVT belt ............................88%
Automatic .........................86%
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04-19-2012, 09:42 PM
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#25 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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Freon does not wear out. If your car is full of R12 and the AC works, leave it alone.
If your system starts to leak, then, instead of refilling with R12 you can convert to R-134A.
By the way, before long R-134A will be replaced by a new refridgerant called R-1234YF. That is really the name, I didn't make that up, lol.
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04-19-2012, 10:07 PM
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#26 (permalink)
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Ultimate Fail
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fat Charlie
I've never seen anyone at our shop wanting the freon "rotated." We have had some wanting their leaky system refilled without being fixed, though.
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What I'm wanting to do is dispose of the stuff without it burning a hole in the atmosphere, and then have it replaced with an Ecofriendly one.
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04-20-2012, 10:29 AM
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#27 (permalink)
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Rat Racer
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That shouldn't be a problem. Any garage that works on AC can evacuate the system. They might scratch their heads at someone wanting them to remove the freon and keep it, but they'll do it.
What kind do you have in it and what are you thinking of moving to? I'd heard that R-134 is going to go away soon, but I'm a parts guy, not a chemist, so I haven't paid any attention to it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheepdog44
Transmission type Efficiency
Manual neutral engine off.100% @∞MPG <----- Fun Fact.
Manual 1:1 gear ratio .......98%
CVT belt ............................88%
Automatic .........................86%
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04-20-2012, 11:03 AM
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#28 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazy88
Freon does not wear out. If your car is full of R12 and the AC works, leave it alone.
If your system starts to leak, then, instead of refilling with R12 you can convert to R-134A.
By the way, before long R-134A will be replaced by a new refridgerant called R-1234YF. That is really the name, I didn't make that up, lol.
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I guess that needs again new seals and stuff, like going from R12 to R-134a was, where you needed all kind of new seals.
I did read sometime that whole freon being dangerous was proven to be false by some recent study, but hard to know for sure, these days there are so many claims that you don't know what to believe anymore.
Anyway air conditioning should be used regularly to keep it in working order I have been told, was that to do lubrication or what, I can't remember but it might be worth to keep stuff in and run A/C every now and then to be just sure.
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04-20-2012, 12:30 PM
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#29 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtbo
I guess that needs again new seals and stuff, like going from R12 to R-134a was, where you needed all kind of new seals.
I did read sometime that whole freon being dangerous was proven to be false by some recent study, but hard to know for sure, these days there are so many claims that you don't know what to believe anymore.
Anyway air conditioning should be used regularly to keep it in working order I have been told, was that to do lubrication or what, I can't remember but it might be worth to keep stuff in and run A/C every now and then to be just sure.
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First, if your AC system isn't leaking, then you aren't hurting the environment by running R12. Converting from R12 to R134A just requires adapters installed on the lines to hook up the charge machine, and a different type of oil will go into the system. Keep in mind, the AC probably won't be as cold after the conversion. R134A is a little weaker than R12.
Yes you should turn on the AC in your car from time to time even if you don't feel you need it. The system contains several ounces of oil that circulates through the whole system while it is running. This oil keeps the moving parts inside the compressor lubed up and moving freely. Anywhere a line connects to something else in the system there are rubber o-rings. These o-rings are kept soft and pliable by the oil as well.
So, AC that is rarely used is more likely to develop leaks than one that is used regularly.
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04-21-2012, 08:36 PM
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#30 (permalink)
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Ultimate Fail
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drmiller100
your car should have a fresh air and a recirc setting.
if it does not blow much air in either setting then it is a plugged AC evap.
VERY common.
If you put fan on high, and it sounds the same in either fresh and recirc, then it is the flapper is stuck.
there is also a valve under the hood on the heater hoses which turns the coolant flow to the heater core on and off. I have seen plenty where the little wire comes off and it no longer moves according to the temp setting on the control panel.
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When I have the car blowingair on the fresh sir and recirc settings , the amount of air increases as I move the handle, but the airflow is still weak.
Also, I have my dash apart and I am looking at the AC condenser. Is this the part that could be plugged ?
Also, the impeler blades are located here as well ?
Thanks.
BTW I do plan to look in the shop manual for this, but thought others might find the information useful since this is a common problem and directly related to FE.
( Use of AC drops MPG )
Thanks
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