1994 Diesel Suburban Build

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by mannydantyla

I don't know much about diesel, but I know that the early 90's and very late 80's chevy/gmc c/k trucks where getting throttle body injection.

First of all, older Diesels didn't even have a throttle plate (even though in my country it's not totally unusual to adapt them into some Mercedes-Benz engines, especially among the folks who own local derivatives of the 40-series Toyota Landcruiser which had this engine as a factory fit). It's been present in some modern ones due to emission control. And unlike volatile fuels, Diesel won't vaporize if injected either at the manifold or at the valve ports, and that's why it's either injected directly into the combustion chambers (which is the standard now) or at prechambers attached to the cylinder head where it swirls in order to increase the contact surface with the intake air which had been aerodynamically heated at the compression stroke.

[aardvarcus]

To anyone contemplating completely rewiring a vehicle....don't.

This project is not dead but it definitely has hit a speed bump, the wiring just seems to consume hours and hours of work without showing significant progress. Also I don't have a ton of time to work on it as I have other things going on constantly. [\complaining]

I am now over 50% done with it, but I am going to have to turn this into a phase 1 then phase 2 sort of job as I need to get the vehicle driving down the road to prevent the project from completely stalling out. So phase 1 will finish everything needed to make it street legal (e.g. lights, etcetera) and phase 2 will add the nice to have's (e.g. trailer wiring). Also phase 1 will just bolt the interior back in, and phase 2 will involve repainting the trim/seat frames/etcetera.

I hope to actually invest some time in it over this weekend, so hopefully with some luck I can get phase 1 buttoned up.

[slowmover]

Electric system is the number one reason for both repairs (80% in 1950s and today) and junking them. Complexity after early 1980s became unbearable, and plastic interiors ruined the rest. One can — with ones own labor — spend 2x or 3x cars value ONLY in redoing interior and most (not all) electrics.

A mid 1960s car with dual hydraulic circuit brakes & optional front discs is about it for a rebuild to driver status. And that assumes upgrades on safety as possible (accepting lack of crashworthiness) where insurance is prohibitive or unattainable for full replacement.

Good luck

[aardvarcus]

Was able to get a few more harnesses built and installed, got the dash back in and the gauge cluster hooked up. I have one more main harness to build for the front and rear lights, then I have to wire in the rocker switches in the dash, and then finally I need to make up the remaining connections in the new electrical center and the electrical part of phase 1 will be completed. Attached are a few pictures of the harnesses, it is hard to get good pictures of them when they are already installed.

I have been working on making sure I have all the other odds and ends parts lined up. If I stay on track the Suburban should be running and driving within two weeks.

[aardvarcus]

In short, I have the Suburban running and driving again. I took her on her first maiden voyage to the gas station earlier this week, followed by a 10+ mile shakedown trip. While there are still some things that need buttoned up and a few projects to finish, there is nothing major preventing the vehicle from being used.

In addition to finishing the wiring, I reinstalled (most) of the interior, and finished installing and charging the completely new AC system, which is working well. I also reinstalled the grill/lights/etcetera. I plan to tackle a few more of the projects to better button up the vehicle, and plan to gradually increase the distance of the shakedown trips until I have confidence built up in the vehicle.

Once I start driving the truck regularly, I will develop a baseline and start focusing on aero mods.

[deejaaa]

can't remember, it's been awhile, but did you replace the oil cooler lines? mine let go late last week and i think i caught it in time. still had a few quarts left. mine were original. a few more miles on the road and it would of been toast.
also replaced the OPS but made the mistake of getting the BWD brand. read a lot of bad reviews after i searched the part number. stated it reads as low as 1-2 psi. got an AC Delco to replace it and will be taking the bad one back. and did the OPS relay mod and that made a huge difference.

[aardvarcus]

Deejaa,
Yeah it has been a while, but yes I did put in new oil cooler lines, the factory ones were leaking on the old motor. I ordered PTFE/Stainless Braided with AN fittings and made my own. Glad you caught yours in time. My oil pressure sensor seems to be working fine, just swapped the one off the old motor.

[slowmover]

Wow! Never easy to get to this point. I long ago lost my appetite for it, but sure admire the determination of “unlimited money” (since that’s how it feels at some stages).

[aardvarcus]

Yeah, costs certainly do add up over time when you are replacing or upgrading a substantial portion of a vehicle. Then I look at the price of a new crew cab 4x4 truck... Yeah and I am promptly back to buying replacement parts.

[slowmover]

What’s the miles & lifespan “plan” for this vehicle. Years & miles.