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Old 02-16-2019, 04:17 PM   #171 (permalink)
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As to exterior lighting youre fine staying with DOT/FMVSS Approved. Thus, Grote, Petersen, etc as found in industry catalogs. Speaker is nice, but expensive.

Third brake light position important. Since the subhumans tailgate in every situation, having lamps up & above is worth consideration.

Same for conspicuity tape (some offerings are mono-color: Black-appearing with reflective yellow). Stick with highest grade 3M.

DOT has placement guidelines for lamps & reflective devices. The “logic” of patterns created should stand out. All sorts of vehicles.

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2004.0 DODGE Ram QC/LB 2500 2WD/NV-5600 305/555 ISB. 7,940-lb. Stock. 200,000 miles/5000-hrs @ 40-mph average.
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Old 02-22-2019, 03:49 PM   #172 (permalink)
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Grabowski,
Thanks. I just ordered a Helwig rear sway bar that I hope to make fit on my Suburban. I didn’t care for the U bolt attachments in the kits so I ordered a “warehouse deal” that I hope to make work by welding on some brackets.

Slowmover,
I ended up ordering Peterson lights and reflectors, seemed to be the best value. Thanks for the suggestion. I have some 3M conspicuity tape in a few colors, need to look at what I have and see what I can find.

Progress has been slow, I have spent a lot of time fixing and working on some of my tools to be able to press forward. I got serious and ordered all the materials for my new rear bumper, which is the precursor to my aerodynamic rear tail project. I am also working on building my own press brake to enable building my aluminum belly pan and other goodies.
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Old 02-23-2019, 12:39 AM   #173 (permalink)
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Adding a rear anti-roll bar means the front bar NEEDS to be up-sized.

And the u-bolts work fine, IMO. I’m all for upgrades, but those bolts locate the bar, only.
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2004.0 DODGE Ram QC/LB 2500 2WD/NV-5600 305/555 ISB. 7,940-lb. Stock. 200,000 miles/5000-hrs @ 40-mph average.
1990 35' Silver Streak TT 7,900-lb.
11-cpm solo & 19-cpm towing; 21-mpg average past 54k-miles
Sold: 1983 Silver Streak 3411
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Old 02-23-2019, 11:00 AM   #174 (permalink)
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Takeep those led head lights and spray them down with some UV blocker for clear plastic.
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Old 03-06-2019, 08:37 AM   #175 (permalink)
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Slowmover,
Agreed, I upsized my front bar previously. My big complaint for the u-bolts was requiring the brake lines to be moved out of the way. Plus the cost of the loose bar I got was a fraction of the correct kit, a decision which I am sure I will regret when I try to fab up brackets.

OilPan4,
Agreed, I will have to order some.

Everyone,
My aluminum I ordered for the new rear bumper and my new rear lights arrived yesterday. The primary component is a big hunk of 8” channel. Now I just need time to fabricate and weld it all up.
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Old 03-26-2019, 05:20 PM   #176 (permalink)
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So one of my halogen sealed beams burned out, which was the kick I needed to get the new sealed beam LED headlights installed. These are way better than the stock sealed beams, the light is very even and the cutoff is very sharp. There are no hot spots, the lighting is even better than the picture shows. I have only had one other car with headlights anywhere near this good (Celica factory HID projectors). Props to JW Speaker, this is a huge upgrade to this vehicle at night. I am very glad I didn’t cheap out and get the less expensive LED options, which seem to still have hotspot issues.
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Old 04-22-2019, 02:56 PM   #177 (permalink)
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I have a bad habit of making things too complex…

I decided to not relocate the tail lights to the bumper, at least not right now. I have another project that can reuse the lights I bought if I don’t need them. That saves some work.

I started working on the subframe to mount my new bumper on yesterday. Removed the stock bumper and other pieces so I could more accurately measure and layout my design, marked everything, and put it back so the vehicle can still be used. With some luck I will get some fabrication done this week.

I “completed” (done enough to use) my 48” 40 Ton Press Brake and tested it by putting a 90 degree test bend in ¼” aluminum plate 46” long. The bend was successful and the brake worked well. It will get used first for my skid plate/belly pan work once I finish my rear bumper.

I am going back and forth on a design for a new small add on boat tail on the Suburban, staying above the tail lights. I want to make it where it hinges from the top to move out of the way of the barn doors, but I am having a hard time designing a hinge or pivot system that is out of the airflow, won’t bind, and will clear the doors.

MPG has been slowly climbing with outside air temperature, last tank was 24.55.
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Old 04-23-2019, 02:28 AM   #178 (permalink)
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Put the hinges in the wind and then an airform around them. Even if it’s only following. Get it built and worth about it someday.

Airplanes have always had this problem. The spat-like boots on aircraft with fixed landing gear. Intakes for passenger ventilation.

Submarines have similar.
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2004.0 DODGE Ram QC/LB 2500 2WD/NV-5600 305/555 ISB. 7,940-lb. Stock. 200,000 miles/5000-hrs @ 40-mph average.
1990 35' Silver Streak TT 7,900-lb.
11-cpm solo & 19-cpm towing; 21-mpg average past 54k-miles
Sold: 1983 Silver Streak 3411
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Old 05-01-2019, 09:23 AM   #179 (permalink)
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Fabrication work on the bumper was progressing good until...

Drug home a 1999 4Runner, V6 5 Speed Manual 4x4. Long time searching for one of these. Currently hogging the garage (Oil leak at oil cooler O-ring, part on order).

The plan is to have both the Suburban and 4Runner as my drivers, which will enable me to execute some of my bigger dreams for the Suburban (as it will be able to be out of commission since I can drive the 4Runner).

The 4Runner will get its own thread, but it is more of a minor-mods type project vehicle. Work on the Suburban will inevitably be delayed.

Had my first tank on the Suburban over 25MPG.
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Old 05-02-2019, 07:51 PM   #180 (permalink)
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Nice find. I am a little jealous.

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