Go Back   EcoModder Forum > EcoModding > EcoModding Central
Register Now
 Register Now
 

Reply  Post New Thread
 
Submit Tools LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 11-27-2017, 08:47 AM   #81 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
aardvarcus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Evensville, TN
Posts: 676

Deep Blue - '94 GMC Suburban K2500 SLE
90 day: 23.75 mpg (US)

Griffin (T4R) - '99 Toyota 4Runner SR5
90 day: 25.43 mpg (US)
Thanks: 237
Thanked 580 Times in 322 Posts
Hey CT Maybury,
My understanding was that the 5th gear nut issue only applied to the dodge version of the transmission, I think the GM version is different in how it retains the nut. The mechanical injector pump is the DB2 used on GM diesels up until 1993, so I am simply changing my 1994 to be like it would have been in 1993. (They didn’t put diesels into the GMT400 Suburbans until 1994 or I would have just found a 1993 to start with.) The injector pump is the military version that came with my 2010 optimizer engine when I got it surplus.

I have made some progress on the wiring, I got all the wires for the glow plugs, starter, electric fans, injector pump, ect that I need to start it loomed up and ran from the new electrical center to the engine. I also have the new electrical center about halfway completed. The project has obviously been “stuck” at this step for a bit, mainly due to a lack of time to work on it. I spent all day Friday cleaning up my garage so that I have room to breathe as I work on it.

  Reply With Quote
Alt Today
Popular topics

Other popular topics in this forum...

   
Old 12-05-2017, 08:38 AM   #82 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
aardvarcus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Evensville, TN
Posts: 676

Deep Blue - '94 GMC Suburban K2500 SLE
90 day: 23.75 mpg (US)

Griffin (T4R) - '99 Toyota 4Runner SR5
90 day: 25.43 mpg (US)
Thanks: 237
Thanked 580 Times in 322 Posts
So I have made some progress on the wiring, may not look like much but there are a lot of hours in this so far. I am getting closer to having the minimum wiring done to start the vehicle. Anyway some pictures.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	A1.jpg
Views:	246
Size:	48.3 KB
ID:	23116   Click image for larger version

Name:	A2.jpg
Views:	213
Size:	39.3 KB
ID:	23117   Click image for larger version

Name:	A3.jpg
Views:	239
Size:	37.5 KB
ID:	23118   Click image for larger version

Name:	A4.jpg
Views:	291
Size:	45.5 KB
ID:	23119   Click image for larger version

Name:	A5.jpg
Views:	216
Size:	35.0 KB
ID:	23120  

Click image for larger version

Name:	A6.jpg
Views:	232
Size:	37.1 KB
ID:	23121   Click image for larger version

Name:	A7.jpg
Views:	244
Size:	47.9 KB
ID:	23122   Click image for larger version

Name:	A8.jpg
Views:	256
Size:	45.5 KB
ID:	23123  
  Reply With Quote
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to aardvarcus For This Useful Post:
gone9 (12-07-2017), oil pan 4 (12-05-2017), slowmover (12-05-2017)
Old 12-05-2017, 10:06 AM   #83 (permalink)
EcoModding Apprentice
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Colorado
Posts: 102
Thanks: 9
Thanked 18 Times in 18 Posts
Looking good. Lot of wires. I thought the ip you went with had no wires and was all mechanical. I put a bosch p7100 on my 99 dodge to get rid of the computer and all the complications and reliability issues. The vp 44 it replaced has a reputation. The crank position sensor failed about 4 times over as many years and would leave me on the side of the road. When the ip failed, it seemed like a good time to ppump it. I don't know much about the gm pumps, but assumed the older version was computerless. Can you custom tune it for fe with timing and duration? The vp was very tunable, the p7 is tunable with a screw driver and wrench, not software.
  Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to ctmaybury@yahoo.com For This Useful Post:
aardvarcus (12-05-2017)
Old 12-05-2017, 02:04 PM   #84 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
aardvarcus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Evensville, TN
Posts: 676

Deep Blue - '94 GMC Suburban K2500 SLE
90 day: 23.75 mpg (US)

Griffin (T4R) - '99 Toyota 4Runner SR5
90 day: 25.43 mpg (US)
Thanks: 237
Thanked 580 Times in 322 Posts
CT Maybury,

Yes my injection pump is all mechanical (no more computer) the only wire for it is the “on” solenoid. (Also the cold start advance, but I don’t know if I will use that or not.)

The lots of wiring you are seeing is for the relays and fuses that control the glow plugs, electric fans, fuel pump, starter, IP solenoid, etcetera. I prefer relays over high power switches. Figure there are four wires per relay and it adds up fast even for a simple setup. I am also going to end up replicating all the functionality of the entire electrical system of the vehicle on this board, so things like turn signals, brake lights, etcetera will all be relay controlled from this location.

Yes, you can tune the mechanical DB2 pump with a screwdriver as well. From my research I would be inclined to swap the timing chain for timing gears, as I have heard reports of significant slop in the timing chain, before trying to push the timing too far out of the box on this engine. There are aftermarket gear sets available for the 6.5 and DB2.
  Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2017, 11:35 AM   #85 (permalink)
EcoModding Apprentice
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Colorado
Posts: 102
Thanks: 9
Thanked 18 Times in 18 Posts
Very cool. I got rid of some wiring by getting rid of the electic lift pump in favor of a mechanical gear type pump (stocker is underdesigned on my generation dodge). Got rid of more wiring by putting a pull cable instead of the fuel shutoff solinoid. I didn't care for that circuit. It pulled 30 amps on startup and pulled 10 amps the whole time the truck is running. When the solinoid went south on me, I went with a cable. It's like my backhoe shutting off the motor. I'm shooting for tractor like simplicity (old tractor not new). Cold start advance sounds like a nice feature (though it probably retards it for startup.) I set my fixed injection timing at 18 degrees btdc for better mileage and performance, but it is a bit cold blooded in the winter (12 deg F outside now). Plugging the truck in for an hour before I start it takes care of that. I am considering one of those heaters that burns fuel from the tank (don't need 110v source). I think my block heater puts out 600 watts, where the webasto puts out 2400 or more depending on model. Heats the coolant, so the heater in the truck is warm right away and window defrost is immediate.

I'm enjoying your build. Am considering another burb myself.
  Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to ctmaybury@yahoo.com For This Useful Post:
aardvarcus (12-11-2017)
Old 12-11-2017, 05:16 PM   #86 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
aardvarcus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Evensville, TN
Posts: 676

Deep Blue - '94 GMC Suburban K2500 SLE
90 day: 23.75 mpg (US)

Griffin (T4R) - '99 Toyota 4Runner SR5
90 day: 25.43 mpg (US)
Thanks: 237
Thanked 580 Times in 322 Posts
CT Maybury,
That is neat, I had looked into a manual shutoff for my DB2 but I had a hard time locating anything. It will be a learning experience for me with the diesel in cold weather, don’t really know what to expect yet. Below 20 would be unusually cold for Tennessee, so I am hoping to not need much. I know some of the newer diesels have intake grid heaters, wouldn’t have the warm engine benefits of the block heater, but might help get it started in a bitter cold situation.
  Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2017, 05:21 PM   #87 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
aardvarcus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Evensville, TN
Posts: 676

Deep Blue - '94 GMC Suburban K2500 SLE
90 day: 23.75 mpg (US)

Griffin (T4R) - '99 Toyota 4Runner SR5
90 day: 25.43 mpg (US)
Thanks: 237
Thanked 580 Times in 322 Posts
Got a bit more wiring done, the removable fuse panel is completed (enough to start) and I got all the wires routed (enough to start). Now I just have to finish making up all the end connections, hook everything up to switches, mount the battery, run the battery cables, and fill with fluids. So close yet so far. My goal is to start it by Christmas. (Merry Christmas to me!)
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	B1.jpg
Views:	275
Size:	52.0 KB
ID:	23154   Click image for larger version

Name:	B2.jpg
Views:	307
Size:	56.0 KB
ID:	23155   Click image for larger version

Name:	B3.jpg
Views:	271
Size:	46.1 KB
ID:	23156  
  Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to aardvarcus For This Useful Post:
slowmover (12-16-2017)
Old 12-12-2017, 12:43 PM   #88 (permalink)
Master Novice
 
elhigh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: SE USA - East Tennessee
Posts: 2,314

Josie - '87 Toyota Pickup
90 day: 29.5 mpg (US)

Felicia - '09 Toyota Prius Base
90 day: 49.47 mpg (US)
Thanks: 427
Thanked 616 Times in 450 Posts
Looks super sharp.
__________________




Lead or follow. Either is fine.
  Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to elhigh For This Useful Post:
aardvarcus (12-20-2017)
Old 12-15-2017, 12:52 PM   #89 (permalink)
EcoModding Apprentice
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Colorado
Posts: 102
Thanks: 9
Thanked 18 Times in 18 Posts
For my fuel shutoff, I used a choke cable from napa and fabricated the brackets and added a spring. Works great. My trucks both have a grid heater, but the 99 (decomputerised) is the cold blooded one. Word of caution about starting fluid, if you have glow plugs or a grid heater, only use starter fluid if you disable the heaters. From what I've heard, you can have a nice little explosion.

Nice looking wiring.
  Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to ctmaybury@yahoo.com For This Useful Post:
aardvarcus (12-20-2017)
Old 12-20-2017, 09:18 AM   #90 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
aardvarcus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Evensville, TN
Posts: 676

Deep Blue - '94 GMC Suburban K2500 SLE
90 day: 23.75 mpg (US)

Griffin (T4R) - '99 Toyota 4Runner SR5
90 day: 25.43 mpg (US)
Thanks: 237
Thanked 580 Times in 322 Posts
Thanks all.

I have gotten a few more things done, repurposed the underhood battery tray for my battery relocation into the console. Got that welded to the transmission tunnel. Started getting the big battery cables routed, got the 4/0 negative routed to the frame. Waiting for my 1/0 and 2 gauge terminals to show up so I can do the run to the starter and electrical center, respectively.

While I wait, I also got the air cleaner mounted and routed, just need to get four 4+” hose clamps to tighten it all down. Also last night I started mounted my engine fans, making aluminum brackets to hold the plastic fan casing together. I am pretty serious about trying to start this thing soon.

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	A3.jpg
Views:	479
Size:	41.2 KB
ID:	23197   Click image for larger version

Name:	A4.jpg
Views:	382
Size:	32.1 KB
ID:	23198   Click image for larger version

Name:	A1.jpg
Views:	472
Size:	53.1 KB
ID:	23199   Click image for larger version

Name:	A2.jpg
Views:	409
Size:	34.8 KB
ID:	23200  
  Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to aardvarcus For This Useful Post:
slowmover (12-24-2017)
Reply  Post New Thread


Tags
diesel suburban 4x4 gmc





Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2
All content copyright EcoModder.com