1998 S10 2.2L 2wd aluminum driveshaft swap

[98ChevyS10]

I am considering swapping my original driveshaft with an aluminum one. I found one off a 2001 S10 online. It looks as though the length is perfect. However, I just wanted to see if any of you could inform me of other potential problems I may run into with the swap. I am checking now to see if the donor truck is 4wd or 2wd. Would that make a difference with the driveshaft? Also my truck is not an ext cap so I have a 1 piece driveshaft.
Thanks!

[oil pan 4]

2wd vs. 4wd will make a huge difference in the length of the rear drive shaft.
The rear drive shaft is driven from the transfer case, something 2wd trucks dont have.

I recomending getting used drive shafts checked out by a drive shaft shop, to make sure ballanceing weights didn't get knocked off during removal or shipping and have new greasable U-joints installed.
Now the shop will recomend not using greasable U-joints, the problem is greasable U-joints last longer, but the grease cant be allowed to sit and oxidize on the aluminum, old waxy oxidized grease tends to pit aluminium, it has to be cleaned off before it gets a chance to react with the drive shaft.

[smokey442]

As far as I know the aluminum shaft was only available in the 8' bed version. For reasons unknown the non geaseable u joints outlast the ones with the grease fittings.

[oil pan 4]

When you buy a non greasable U-joint its made of top quality materials, or else it would only last 50,000miles.
When you buy a run of the mill greasable U-joint they are usually lower quality because its assumed they will be greased.
You can get high end greasable U-joints but they cost 2 or 3 times as much as the cheap greasable U-joints.
The best, which is what I get are the high end spicer greasable U-joints.

I have an aluminum drive shaft for my camaro which I have not installed. I ebayed it and took it to the drive shaft shop for ballance and U-joint replacement, if I rememer right it cost about $120 for all that.