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Old 08-11-2018, 03:46 PM   #111 (permalink)
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Stock for my Saturn is 4x100, 12x1.5 lugs, 15x6”, 38-42mm offset and 57.1mm hub center bore...

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Old 08-11-2018, 06:01 PM   #112 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19bonestock88 View Post
Stock for my Saturn is 4x100, 12x1.5 lugs, 15x6Ē, 38-42mm offset and 57.1mm hub center bore...
The center bore being bigger on your car is a problem. They won't mount correctly. I could use your rims on my Civic, with a spacer, but you can't mount 56.1 center bore HX rims to a 57.1 hub safely. Bummer.
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Old 08-11-2018, 11:57 PM   #113 (permalink)
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Sadness. What about Miata rims?

I had to use 1/4" spacers for the HX rims to clear the front calipers on my EX. Thankfully they weigh literally like nothing.
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Old 08-12-2018, 12:45 PM   #114 (permalink)
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It’s same bolt pattern but I don’t know the center bore... I have a set of factory Saturn alloy wheels, but they’re 16x6.5”

I’d love to buy a set of RPF1s but they’re pricy and I don’t know how I’d use smooth wheel covers with them...

Realistically I’m not in a big hurry to do alloy wheels, as about any upgrade will be expensive and the ROI isn’t that great... due to my considering ROI when planning mods, most of them have paid for themselves almost immediately
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Old 08-12-2018, 12:53 PM   #115 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19bonestock88 View Post
Itís same bolt pattern but I donít know the center bore... I have a set of factory Saturn alloy wheels, but theyíre 16x6.5Ē
Weigh them out maybe, and if the alloys are lighter than the steelies you can get a taller, narrower tire with less sidewall and less weight.

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Realistically Iím not in a big hurry to do alloy wheels, as about any upgrade will be expensive and the ROI isnít that great... due to my considering ROI when planning mods, most of them have paid for themselves almost immediately
True, if you don't have another set of wheels to sell to cover the cost, I agree ROI will be a while.

Mine cost ~$310 roughly including tires and balancing, and with a ~5% improvement in city driving, that's over 80,000 miles to break even if it weren't for selling my OEM set for nearly $400.
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Old 08-14-2018, 04:32 PM   #116 (permalink)
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I done some research on the wheel sizing thing... if I bought a 16x7” RPF1 wheel at around 12# and ran a 225/50 tire, I should be around the same weight as my current setup, but the widertire theoretixally having lower RRc and way more lateral grip... the Redline only specced a 215 section tire, and with a suspension setup not unlike mine, cornered like a dream...
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Old 08-14-2018, 05:52 PM   #117 (permalink)
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I am not sure wider is better. Larger yes. But larger can also be bigger diameter without the biggest possible width. Bigger diameter with narrow width is what BMW is doing with its EV. And you would gain aero benefits and gearing benefits from narrower but taller. Just a thought. Consider this discussion (the link is to a comment of mine in the middle of the discussion): https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthre...tml#post564182

And this graph from that thread. I think it shows that for FE purposes, the picture can be more complicated.
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Old 08-14-2018, 06:55 PM   #118 (permalink)
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Following the theme of staying skinny but gaining diameter, the ideal would be a 195/65-16 (25.9” diameter) but those are almost all commercial tires(8+ply), but a decent compromise would be a 205-60-16 which is 25.7” tall... I started thinking of rubber to gain lateral grip and lost sight of FE, lol

Really is like to go even taller to gain a gearing advantage but I haven’t got the room for anything over MAYBE 26” before I’d have to clearance the strut...
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Old 08-14-2018, 11:18 PM   #119 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Is this implying that tires with 165mm width have more RR than tires with 215mm width???
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Old 08-15-2018, 11:19 AM   #120 (permalink)
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It would appear so, but that chart doesn’t show rolling diameter, which we all know affects FE...

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