03-18-2018, 12:24 AM
|
#31 (permalink)
|
Master EcoModder
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: northwest of normal
Posts: 28,703
Thanks: 8,147
Thanked 8,925 Times in 7,368 Posts
|
Quote:
As that ratio increases (as you would get fitting a narrower, lower volume tire in an existing wheel housing), drag goes up too, about ten counts for every doubling of the ratio. And lift coefficient increases 5x as fast, 50 counts for every doubling. But, it's unclear what effect a smaller volume, narrow tire that still fills the area of the wheel opening would have...
|
That's interesting. Citation? I'm thinking of those lowriders with their whitewalls on Astros. Vs your stanced Beemer.
As for airflow exposure, spats are back.
__________________
.
.Without freedom of speech we wouldn't know who all the idiots are. -- anonymous poster
____________________
.
.Three conspiracy theorists walk into a bar --You can't say that is a coincidence.
|
|
|
Today
|
|
|
Other popular topics in this forum...
|
|
|
03-18-2018, 12:59 AM
|
#32 (permalink)
|
Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Urbana, IL
Posts: 1,939
Thanks: 199
Thanked 1,805 Times in 941 Posts
|
Aerodynamics of Road Vehicles, pp. 184-185 (4th ed.)
|
|
|
The Following User Says Thank You to Vman455 For This Useful Post:
|
|
03-18-2018, 03:03 AM
|
#33 (permalink)
|
Master EcoModder
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: northwest of normal
Posts: 28,703
Thanks: 8,147
Thanked 8,925 Times in 7,368 Posts
|
I didn't expect to find Session-3-1-Jeff-Howell-Summary-of-university-dindings-Wheel-Wheelarch-drag online today, and I wasn't disappointed. Er...
Quote:
Jeff Howell
Tata Motors European Technical Centre
WS12 Aerodynamic Performance
ContentsDrag breakdown
Wheel/wheelarch drag component
Moving ground wind tunnels
Cranfield model rig
Test data
Comments
Conclusions
|
I did find these two identical links, both display poorly (prolly JavaScript):
https://vdocuments.mx/documents/the-...-and-wind.html
https://vdocuments.mx/documents/the-...-and-wind.html
Both point to The Aerodynamic Characteristics of Automobile Wheels - CFD Prediction and Wind Tunnel Experiment but I haven't tried downloading yet.
__________________
.
.Without freedom of speech we wouldn't know who all the idiots are. -- anonymous poster
____________________
.
.Three conspiracy theorists walk into a bar --You can't say that is a coincidence.
|
|
|
03-18-2018, 10:43 PM
|
#34 (permalink)
|
Master EcoModder
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,510
Thanks: 325
Thanked 452 Times in 319 Posts
|
Yup, there's a reason why the pros tend to ride the widest tyres that will clear their frames, and why the 19-20mm tyres of old are now seen as indoor only tyres (they still work on smooth wood boards @200psi). Just a few years ago bike frames were only designed to clear 23mm tyres. Pretty much all frames are designed for 25mm today and there are a lot of 28mm frames out there.
Most Pro teams are now running 25mm, the extra 2mm of width (over the old school 23mm's) had a massive impact on RR, jumping up another 3mm doesn't have as much impact on RR (and at an ever greater aero and weight penalty).
For now the second widest tyre is seen as ideal for the Pro Peleton.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Continental Tyres
Remember that wide tyres of the same type and with same air pressure run better and more lightly than narrow tyres.
|
That's translated from German, but I think what they're saying is clear.
https://roadcyclinguk.com/gear/using...ad-bike.html/3
etc, etc, etc. Use a search engine, all the data says wider tyres= lower RR. Bicycle data is easier to find than car data, as cyclists are more interested in saving a few watts than car enthusiasts.
BUT
That's not to be confused with 'better' economy. I've personally switched from Fiat's OE 195's to OE 175's and their lower weight & better aero had a massive benefit, even if the RR was unlikely to be any better. The switch also meant going from heavy open faced alloys to light weight steelies with hup caps. That's a lot of variables. RR got worse, but everything else got better, making it easy to assume that everything got better. Traction also got worse so again it's easy to think RR got better.
On older cars, say 90's back, the bodies widest point was at the height of the plastic rub strips (roughly the top of the guards). On my Proton with 205's, the top of the tyre is easily within the guard, however, just a few inches lower the tread is already exposed to the airflow. Newer cars do a much better job at enveloping the tyre, so there's potentially less aero gain from going to a narrow tyre.
Would I fit wider tyres to improve economy? No. I doubt the RR gains would ever offset the other losses.
|
|
|
The Following User Says Thank You to oldtamiyaphile For This Useful Post:
|
|
03-18-2018, 11:15 PM
|
#35 (permalink)
|
Cyborg ECU
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Coastal Southern California
Posts: 6,299
Thanks: 2,373
Thanked 2,174 Times in 1,470 Posts
|
Of course, bike tires are maybe not fully comparable to cars, but I love the chart and I take your point. I have a 23mm Gatorskin on my back wheel right now, but that is the widest tire that fits in the frame (1990s Nashbar design).
The link Capriracer posted a page or so back had this chart buried in it. You'll notice that generally smaller tire size is associated with lower RR:
james
__________________
See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.
|
|
|
03-19-2018, 12:09 AM
|
#36 (permalink)
|
Master EcoModder
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,510
Thanks: 325
Thanked 452 Times in 319 Posts
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by capriracer
When tires are measured for RR, one of the test conditions is the load - which would be larger for larger tires. But when a tire is applied to a vehicle, the load on the tire would be the same, regardless of what tire size is used. So the RRF (Rolling Resistance Force) needs to be divided by the test load to get RRC (Rolling Resistance Coefficient) - which is shown below.
|
Bigger tyre = lower RR.
Car or bike, doesn't matter.
The whole reason rubber tyres have a high RR in the first place is deflection (hysteresis losses). A bigger tyre deflects less for a given pressure/ load, which means lower hysteresis and lower RR.
Imagine putting a car tyre on your bike. You'd have virtually zero deflection, virtually zero hysterisis and extremely low RR. Doesn't mean you'd have a bike that's fast or easy to pedal though.
|
|
|
The Following User Says Thank You to oldtamiyaphile For This Useful Post:
|
|
03-19-2018, 01:13 AM
|
#37 (permalink)
|
Cyborg ECU
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Coastal Southern California
Posts: 6,299
Thanks: 2,373
Thanked 2,174 Times in 1,470 Posts
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtamiyaphile
Bigger tyre = lower RR. Car or bike, doesn't matter. ...
|
Ok. I think I get it now. I did not know the difference between rr force and the coefficient. Learn something every day. But, don't hate me, even the graph you posted is a little ambiguous. While the general trend of larger tire, less rolling resistance is clear, it is not without noise. For example your chart suggests that I IMPROVED my rolling resistance by going DOWN in size from a 185/65-R14 to a 175/70-R13. That is what I actually did and possibly went from a 12.0 Crr to an 11.5 Crr. Unless, again, I don't get it.
So that settles the general picture for rolling resistance, but the thread title is about width and FE and everyokne seems to agree there are lots of variables and that even if a given wider tire provides better RR other factors like weight and aerodynamics might overwhelm that benefit and produce lower FE anyway.
__________________
See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.
Last edited by California98Civic; 03-19-2018 at 01:14 AM..
Reason: Typos
|
|
|
03-19-2018, 02:37 AM
|
#38 (permalink)
|
EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 56
Thanks: 1
Thanked 42 Times in 19 Posts
|
Yep, and in this case, I am going to a 7% larger tire, so it is changing gearing too. Rolling resistance, aero factors, rotating mass, gearing, pumping losses..anything I am missing on the list of variables?
I guess the only way to know is stick with the one variable; use a wider tire with a lower profile ratio to keep the diameter the same, same tire model, same rims, and do some a-b-a testing.
|
|
|
03-19-2018, 07:54 AM
|
#39 (permalink)
|
Master EcoModder
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 5,096
Thanks: 2,907
Thanked 2,571 Times in 1,594 Posts
|
Something else to consider - while a larger tire may have lower RR at a given pressure, the pressure ratings for tires of different sizes are different.
I have a set of Schwalbe Big Ben tires on my velomobile and I remember reading they were supposed to have lower RR at a given pressure, but they're also rated to be used at dramatically lower pressures. I pumped them up and still have greater suspension effect, I'm unsure about the RR difference, but I also notice the handling is affected - they're a lot heavier.
|
|
|
03-19-2018, 08:59 AM
|
#40 (permalink)
|
Tire Geek
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Let's just say I'm in the US
Posts: 796
Thanks: 4
Thanked 393 Times in 240 Posts
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ecky
Something else to consider - while a larger tire may have lower RR at a given pressure, the pressure ratings for tires of different sizes are different. ....... [
|
Ah ..... not exactly. All standard load passenger car tires (the most common type) have a rated pressure of 35 psi, except for those tires who use the metric system, then it's 2.5 bar (250 kPa, ~36 psi).
Please note: This is different than the max usage pressure which is sometimes written on the sidewall (and the other times what is written there is the rated pressure.)
This is different than bicycle tires because bicycle tires assume a single rider and a relatively narrow range of weight, while a car might have many passengers and a wide range of weight.
|
|
|
|