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Old 10-18-2014, 12:56 AM   #101 (permalink)
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Turns out the tinted windows made the small panel I have only barely able to spin the fans I have if the sun is directly overhead, so I ordered a larger (10w vs 1.5w) panel. Hoping to run 2x 12cm fans, and maybe I'll set the small panel up as a 12v tender. Keeping the car cool when parked should help extend the life of the hybrid battery.


Monocrystalline Silicon Hobby Solar Panel 18V 10W 555mA for Home Lighting | eBay


The cabin air filter is behind the glove box, protected by a bunch of bolts.







Filter really needed to be changed, made a noticeable difference in the airflow through the vents.

Also, was recommended this for adding an integrated voltage monitor to my grid charger:


http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Conver...item563e4c581f

Most cheap voltmeters that can be run on 12v are not properly isolated and will thus cause a CEL if you use them.

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Old 10-18-2014, 08:12 AM   #102 (permalink)
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Looking forward to your results. I too had looked at using some 1.5w panels to run a fan. Same results, even the factory tint degrade the performance significantly. Any thing to help keep that pack cool in the Florida heat sound like a good investment.
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Old 10-18-2014, 07:54 PM   #103 (permalink)
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I've had the Insight for almost 10,000 miles now!

Looking at the dealer records, I saw no mention of a transmission fluid change, so I ran to the local stealership and picked up 2 quarts of Honda MTF at $10 each. The Insight's tranny only holds ~1.5qt so I have some left over, not sure what to do with it.

Tools gathered (sans funnel):




Remove the driver side front aero panel. Fill bolt is on the top and drain bolt is on the bottom (duh). Drain bolt can be undone with a 3/8" socket drive, fill bolt is a 17mm. Torque is 29ft/lbs and 33ft/lbs respectively.




I didn't need the hammer, bolts came right out. Make sure when filling the car that it isn't jacked up, on ramps or otherwise not level. Easiest way is to get a funnel with a hose on the end.






Total time for drain and fill was about 20 minutes. Subjective evalution: downshifting is slightly easier. Dropping from 3rd to 2nd at speed has a lot less resistance now. Highly recommended if your Insight is getting up there in miles and hasn't ever had a change.
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Old 10-19-2014, 12:44 AM   #104 (permalink)
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Decided to try to tackle the power locks today. I don't enjoy throwing parts at something until I know what's wrong with it, and I really have no idea what's wrong with it.

I posted over on InsightCentral:

Help me figure out what's wrong with my trunk latch - Insight Central: Honda Insight Forum

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ecky View Post
Before talking about the trunk latch, I should first mention that none of my power locks work correctly. Pressing the key FOB or lock switches in the car makes all of the locks click (very distinctly, it sounds as though they are locking and unlocking), but none of them actually lock or unlock.

So far as I can tell, the actuator assembly isn't doing anything. Pressing the button on the truck doesn't activate it. I suspect it's because the lock assembly's sensor is reading "locked" all the time, but that's not based on a lot. It has worked a few times since I got the car, but always randomly.

As for the lock assembly, the 3d-printed replacement part doesn't seem to be what's wrong with it - in fact, it doesn't look like it even has that part. Maybe the assembly was replaced at some point? Anyway, it has a white arm, pictured below, that moves in one direction when I press the key FOB "unlock" but doesn't move in the other direction when I press "lock". Strangely, turning the key left and right in the truck key slot causes the motor to push the arm in both directions. Stranger yet, the arm doesn't seem to be connected to anything, so when it moves back and forth it doesn't appear to do anything. Moving it manually doesn't actually touch the latch.





Here's a youtube video showing them in action:



What's going on here? What do I need to replace or fix to get my truck latch working?

Last edited by Ecky; 10-19-2014 at 06:44 PM..
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Old 10-19-2014, 06:52 AM   #105 (permalink)
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Quote:
Keeping the car cool when parked should help extend the life of the hybrid battery.
Ecky, you should buy one of those insulated silver folding sun shades for the rear window!
It works great to keep the heat out of the rear end, and you know how hot it gets in Florida! I got the jumbo size for large SUVs for the rear, and a standard size for the front windshield.
I turn the rear one long-ways, roll up the top a little and jam the top part in the gap between the hinge and the seal, then slowly lower the hatch until it grips the top of the sun shade. Then I pull the bottom tight (it sticks out of the car a little) and slam the hatch shut. This poked a hole in the sun shade, but the hatch closes tight and doesn't leak, and it keeps the interior from heating up. I also crack the windows about an inch since I have the rain deflectors, and I have no heat issues!
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Old 10-19-2014, 11:15 AM   #106 (permalink)
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That's a great idea, but I'm not the only driver and I'm certain my wife would pull it down the first time she got in it and not put it back up.

A fitted one for the windshield is on my list though.
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Old 10-19-2014, 11:48 AM   #107 (permalink)
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Lol, I hear that!

You know, even if she just laid it over the rear deck until you got a custom fitted one, it would at least keep the battery cool!

If you do get a custom one for the rear, I want to see pics of it, I may get myself one if it isn't crazy expensive
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Old 10-19-2014, 08:13 PM   #108 (permalink)
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Based on a tip over at InsightCentral, I pulled off the trim just behind the passenger door and checked a connector that's in-line to the trunk latch, here's what I saw:








Corrosion! Nothing a toothbrush and some electrical cleaner won't fix though, and a bit of grease to keep future drips away.




I put them back together, and my trunk latch is now working, even with the unlock button on the key FOB. My other locks are still not working but it appears I have several little problems rather than a single big one, so I pulled the trigger on a pair of door lock actuators for the driver and passenger doors from RockAuto.

Now, as to why the corrosion was there to begin with,

Quote:
Originally Posted by KLR3CYL View Post
The fix is to seal the clip at the rear of the roof moulding that leaks.

This is not an easy task.

I'll try to post some photos or search here for some good ones someone had already posted.

Scott
I couldn't see any trace of where the water came from inside the panel, and I'm not sure where Mr. Scott is referring to, so I'll need to do some Google-Fu and find out where others found it.
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Old 10-19-2014, 08:19 PM   #109 (permalink)
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The clips on the roof mouldings are leaking.

regards
mech
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Old 10-19-2014, 09:09 PM   #110 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Mechanic View Post
The clips on the roof mouldings are leaking.

regards
mech
I've never taken the moulding off a roof before. This bit here is held on by clips, and can be popped off with a screwdriver?


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