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Old 11-12-2014, 08:50 PM   #191 (permalink)
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Update on the solar-powered exhaust fan:

The Deltas didn't work out. They have an excellent current to airflow ratio, and have an incredibly low startup voltage, but I didn't take into account that a higher-amp fan would cause the voltage to dip more on the panels. My 120mm Yate Loons actually spun up with less light. I ended up ordering a 92mm Akasa branded fan which needs only 0.05amps and pushes around 30cfm.

I'm planning to use both of my panels in parallel to power the fan, and put them in different locations. Direct sunlight on either will power any fan I put on it, but due to the tinted windows, I'll need to experiment with placement a bit. When the panel is out of direct sun, the power output is only a tiny fraction of maximum, though both together will spin up this fan in bright indirect light.

I went out to the car with a drill, prepared to add 4 holes to screw the fan into place, but after looking at it a bit I decided that zip ties would work just as well, without the need of irreversible modification.








I left a gap at the bottom so the battery box can still vent on the driver side, but added some tape around where the fan sits to help develop enough pressure to push the baffles open.

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Old 11-12-2014, 11:00 PM   #192 (permalink)
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Nice! That grid charger looks pretty clean. Remember 24hr max is all that's needed. Also if you have an OBD2c&c you can charge your car daily without abusing it, I stated how in another thread, and the guys on IC think it's a good idea.
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Old 11-12-2014, 11:15 PM   #193 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baltothewolf View Post
Nice! That grid charger looks pretty clean. Remember 24hr max is all that's needed. Also if you have an OBD2c&c you can charge your car daily without abusing it, I stated how in another thread, and the guys on IC think it's a good idea.
Only thing is, what's recommended as the best way to determine when to pull the battery off charge? Overcharging every day can't be good for it, and Honda limited the range of charge of the battery to prolong its life.
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Old 11-13-2014, 01:59 AM   #194 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ecky View Post
Only thing is, what's recommended as the best way to determine when to pull the battery off charge? Overcharging every day can't be good for it, and Honda limited the range of charge of the battery to prolong its life.
Well, I figure right about 166-169v is 80% SoC for me, so that's when I stop it. Once I get a OBD2C&C I can manually charge it via 3krpm rev and see what % the car considers "full" then plug in my grid charger and see exactly what voltage it's at, then use simple math everyday to figure out how long it needs to be on the charger.

Also no, it's not good for the car to charge it to 100% everyday. But charging to right around what the car considers full is actually better for the battery, as your trickle charging it at 350mA instead of the 15A or whatever it gets when you regen brake.
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Old 11-13-2014, 02:35 AM   #195 (permalink)
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I'll need to do some reading about these battery types, but I'm pretty sure voltage is not a good indicator of the battery's charge level. I'll get back to this thread once I'm sure of what I'm talking about though.
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Old 11-13-2014, 05:41 AM   #196 (permalink)
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Quote:
Also, cowmeat, your grid charging harness is done!
Thanks, man! I'm looking forward to trying it out! I PM'ed you my address, or you can just go to IC and search for the "Florida Insight Owners" thread, and click the link and find the cow.

BTW everybody, why don't we have a location map at Ecomodder? Or do we have one and I'm the last to know?
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Old 11-13-2014, 06:16 PM   #197 (permalink)
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BTW everybody, why don't we have a location map at Ecomodder? Or do we have one and I'm the last to know?
Who has "Location: Earth?"
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Old 11-13-2014, 09:54 PM   #198 (permalink)
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90 day: 54.26 mpg (US)

Such Fit - '07 Honda Fit Sport
90 day: 41.27 mpg (US)

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Just ordered a Reese receiver for $18:

http://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpower...ds=reese+06625




My jaw near fell out of my head when I saw that price.

I'm planning to weld a bar to the back of the receiver and run it back under the cargo box for extra support. Expect a working hitch within the next month.
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Old 11-13-2014, 10:54 PM   #199 (permalink)
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Gaptooth (retired) - '00 Honda Insight
Team Honda
Gen-1 Insights
90 day: 54.26 mpg (US)

Such Fit - '07 Honda Fit Sport
90 day: 41.27 mpg (US)

Connect - '15 Ford Transit Connect XL
90 day: 24.03 mpg (US)

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Some measurements of the back of the car:



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Old 11-16-2014, 11:31 AM   #200 (permalink)
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Gaptooth (retired) - '00 Honda Insight
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90 day: 54.26 mpg (US)

Such Fit - '07 Honda Fit Sport
90 day: 41.27 mpg (US)

Connect - '15 Ford Transit Connect XL
90 day: 24.03 mpg (US)

K-sight - '00 Honda K-sight
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Friday night it was around freezing, so I plugged in the block heater and battery tender. In the morning, before starting the car, I checked the coolant temperature with my bluetooth OBD scanner, - 58c! I was barely out of the parking lot before the heat came on.

I drove my wife to work Saturday morning, and often when it's this cold we'll average as low as 35mpg getting to the top of the first few hills (~3miles perhaps). I was around 50 at that point, so I know the block heater will help with short trips and the first few miles of her work commute. Unfortunately, it isn't economical to leave the heater on all the time, short trips are often not predictable, and she is generally only awake maybe 45 minutes before getting in the car before going to work. I'm undecided yet if I want to run it overnight on weekends (she's a weekend receptionist right now) or leave a note reminding her to flip the light switch it's on in the mornings right when she wakes up.

Got my power locks working. I was skeptical at first that the ALL of my power locks had quit working for individual reasons, but after finding a wiring problem going to the trunk lock, I ordered a pair of Dorman units from RockAuto for ~$23 each and replaced the front actuators, which fixed those. Apparently the actuators used in the Insight are all failure-prone.




To remove the door panel, you must remove the quarter panel covers (?) and six screws, marked below. There's also one bolt that holds the rail the window slides up and down on which will need to be removed to access the lock actuator, but it can be removed after you have the panel off.




Peel back the weather seal. Unlatch the rod leading to the lock actuator, and remove the white plastic guard.




Push the window rail you unbolted aside. Unplug the electrical connectors (2 on the driver's side, one on the passenger). Remove the black plastic guard, held in place with one screw. Remove the two screws holding in the lock actuator. Note that there is a white plastic arm (indicated with an arrow) that goes over a peg. You'll need to put this arm back over the peg when you install the new unit.




Reverse order to put it all back together.


~~

I found a box of 20 194 wedge LEDs on Amazon for $17 (can get 10 for $10 or 4 for $7) to replace some more of my bulbs. These should be approximately 1 watt. I would've bought the 10 pack, but I plan to give half of them to my brother.

In the Insight, you can replace the front parking lights (two round lights to the center from the headlights) - 5 watts, front sidemarker lights (very outside lights, you need small hands to get to them) - 5 watts, MAP lights / dome light - 5 watts, and license plate light - 5 watts - with these bulbs, for a total savings of 25 watts when running and an additional 15 watts when the overhead lights are all on. They also fit in the sockets for the reverse lights - 18 watts - but are not as bright. Since those are so rarely used, I have no issues with leaving them be until they burn out.

The sidemarker lights are best replaced with amber LEDs but these still provide fair illumination. In my case, I had no idea my car even had sidemarker lights because both sides (as it seems with many other small issues I've had) were not working. The sockets are iffy, and I had to carefully position the bulb in them to get them to light up. They use the same socket as the parking lights, which work fine with these LEDs, so I know it's the sockets. I found replacements on G1parts for $6 each but will hold off on buying the sockets until these go out again for whatever reason.

Another possibility is buying LEDs that are all forward-facing. The dome, map, license plate and parking lights only need light thrown forward from the bulb. The sidemarker lights need light thrown from the side but should be amber. Be careful to buy bulbs that will fit through the hole in the headlight assembly.


Last edited by Ecky; 11-16-2014 at 11:57 AM..
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