07-28-2018, 11:51 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Cyborg ECU
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I had an intermittent coil fail a few years ago. Only when the car had been running for for about 10 miles did the problem present because the heat caused the coil to expand and fail. Otherwie it ran normally. You need a test procedure. Does the Metro have an FSM that is freely available?
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See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.
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07-29-2018, 12:32 AM
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#12 (permalink)
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Batman Junior
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Ha... I have the 3-volume FSM. You just reminded me. I should crack it open!
I have a hunch it's ignition-related due to the way the tach bounces crazily when it's not running right. If I'm not mistaken, the tach signal comes off the coil or the pick-up in the distributor.
We'll see what tomorrow morning's cold start brings.
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07-29-2018, 04:08 AM
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#13 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Sep 2012
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Pick up coil under the distributor cap hasn’t turned to a mess?
Otherwise I’d check the cam and crank sensors/wiring. I suppose the one in the distributor might be the cam sensor...?
Oh and how’s your battery? Mine was giving issues when the battery was drained to the point of just barely starting the car. Was fine after the alt managed to finally kick in.
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07-29-2018, 05:03 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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Eco-ventor
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Tach bouncing indicates faulty Ignition Control Module.
Sometimes dying electronics will work better hot. You could try heating the ICM with a hot air gun and try a cold start.
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07-29-2018, 01:32 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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Batman Junior
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^ Ignition control module = coil in the 1.0L Metros, from what I've read.
Stubby79: pick-up hasn't obviously self-destructed. And yes, that's the camshaft position sensor too. (First thing I did was bypass my engine kill switch, which is on that circuit.)
Today's report, so far: 1 cold start this AM on the Firefly coil = no problems.
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07-30-2018, 08:41 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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Batman Junior
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2 for 2!
Two cold starts since changing the coil. No hiccups yet, touch wood.
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07-30-2018, 08:50 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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Cyborg ECU
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG
Two cold starts since changing the coil. No hiccups yet, touch wood.
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Wooot wooot! [knocks on fake wood flooring] Come on bbig number three!
__________________
See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.
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07-30-2018, 08:53 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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Batman Junior
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If it gives me 5 in a row, I'll put the original coil back in and see what happens. A-B-A, baby. (Think 5 is enough??)
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07-31-2018, 12:39 AM
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#19 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Fyi, coils rarely fail on older systems. I have been doing this for a long time, and I have seen less than 10 regular oil filled coils fail in 40 years. Now the new coil on plug stuff and the air cooled GM crap from the 80s is another story. I change the Ford and Chrysler coil on plug crap all the time. Just to be fair I haven’t worked on any new GM stuff in 14 years.
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84 Gmc 6.5 na diesel K30 4x4, TMU
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07-31-2018, 03:43 AM
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#20 (permalink)
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Batman Junior
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I've been driving old $#!*boxes all my life (up to 30 or 35 by now?) and have never had an ignition coil fail before.
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