2002 Honda Civic LX auto - repair & modding

[Daox]

Yeah, it was odd. I was expecting something noticeable. Oh well, I suppose thats a good thing.

Taking the head off and checking for warpage on the head and block is what I was planning on doing. Hopefully its just a new gasket and go. If not, I'll take it in to get resurfaced.

[darcane]

Originally Posted by Daox

Yeah, it was odd. I was expecting something noticeable. Oh well, I suppose thats a good thing.

Taking the head off and checking for warpage on the head and block is what I was planning on doing. Hopefully its just a new gasket and go. If not, I'll take it in to get resurfaced.

The head is likely warped. It's unlikely that the previous owner used any aftermarket gauges and probably only noticed an issue when the gauge read too high...

On my car, normal operating temp is about 180°F, but at 220°F it is barely higher on the stock gauge. For you to notice that it is hot, it would probably be 280°F+

[mechman600]

I had the exact same car, except a 2001. Many many issues, but luckily never a head gasket.
-Exhaust manifold cracking - they are famous for that. The cat is built into the manifold, causing temp fractures every couple of years.
-Suspension issues (almost every bushing there is), as you already know
-Ridiculously inaccurate fuel gauge - try not to run out of gas!
-Continuously warped front rotors.
Hopefully they fixed those issues by the time 2002 rolled around....

Overall, great on fuel. I averaged 34 mpg without trying too hard, aka...wife driving most of the time.

I really liked the way the automatic worked in my Civic. You have probably already noticed how much the torque converter stays locked. Waaaay more than most automatics. For example, when cruising at 20 mph it will be in the 3rd gear with TC locked, revs very low. At almost any steady speed, it locks, unlike my wife's Matrix that needs 37 mph to lock, and will only do so in 4th gear (and for some weird reason way up at 47 mph if you manually switch it to 3rd). Even if you manually switch to 3rd (from 4th) on the Civic, it will lock the TC unless you really stand on it.

[Daox]

Well, I didn't have much time tonight to tinker with the Civic due to my Sunfire blowing a brake line on the way home. But, I did get a few things done.

First off, its blowing the water out of the exhaust. I put my hand over the tail pipe and had droplets on my hand shortly. This makes me a little leery of worn piston rings. I'm now thinking an oil analysis might be a good thing.

Second, I did the compression test for the heck of it. It actually looks pretty good with 190, 180, 180, 193.

Also, I did notice some oil on the head and block. I'm not sure where its coming from. I'd guess leaky valve cover gasket.

Other than that... WOW, this car is sooooooo rust free. I have never seen a car this old with this little rust... I haven't actually SEEN any rust on it yet (still haven't gone under it). Its a little crazy to me. Lucky Texans... Though, it does have noticeable sun damage.

[ChazInMT]

My 04 had the head gasket issue too. Replaced it and has taken me another 50K miles, It went with 110K on it. Just got new tires for it and they're Great. I got the General RT43 altimax and are they smooth and quiet. Need to replace my front brakes again after 100K miles, other than that, it's been real reliable and the suspension is only a teensy bit loose after 167K. I had a garage do the head gasket and replace the timing belt & water pump etc at the same time. My manual has gotten 35.5 overall since I been keeping track from when I bought it with 67K on it 4 years ago. Great car.

[ecomodded]

The head bolts could be out of torque spec ,a quick check with a torque wrench when the valve covers are off would tell. Never know maybe the head bolts were never re-torqued after the last head job.
It might be that easy..

I am pretty sure the books tell you to re torque headbolts after 100 miles or so.
Or I have read that..

[parallelevan]

A bore scope is always nice to have. Just take out the spark plug and take a peak.
Go ahead and check the compression but take your radiator cap off run up the pressure in each cylinder and let it sit for a few minutes. (Works best if the motor is still a little warm but don't burn yourself)
Bubbles in coolant and you have a bad seal on your head
No bubbles and it's trashed piston rings.
Steady pressure and your good to go
I won't hurt to check but sometimes it's much simpler ie bad plugs, wires, or timing.
Has the valves ever Ben gapped?

[sarguy01]

Throw in some fresh plugs after you fix the head. I think there is an under hood sticker with the plug type on it.

[Daox]

Oh yeah, I also checked the plugs while I had them out. The gap was fairly large from .070 to .080. They are copper plugs, and pretty well worn.

[sarguy01]

Originally Posted by Daox

Oh yeah, I also checked the plugs while I had them out. The gap was fairly large from .070 to .080. They are copper plugs, and pretty well worn.

From the service manual. Gap should be .039-.043. That could be your misfire...

D17A1, D17A2, D17Z1, D17Z4 engines
NGK: ZFR6J-11
DENSO: KJ20CR-L11