2005 Ford Explorer, 4.0 SOHC + 4WD. Stock EPA Figure: 15 Combined.

[Cd]

Good luck with your endevours

[101Volts]

Originally Posted by Cd

Good luck with your endevours

Thanks.

There's not much to report now, except that I've been getting 18.6 - 18.8 MPG lately, with the few mods I have. I'm somewhere over 200 miles into the tank now, maybe around 225.

I'm close to putting some Fiberglass in the engine bay. I can't put it everywhere, but where I can keep heat in, I expect that to help. EDIT, Nov. 9: Maybe I should use a different method.

I've found myself enthused about the idea of putting the air dam on. The car's on stands now, for the next day.

Current Mods:

600w Block Heater;
Driving Behavior (Engine Off at Red Lights, Fuel Injectors Off where possible; )
Grill Block, Roughly 90% Blocked;
Roof Rack Delete / Roof Rack Removal;
Tire Pressure: 45 Front, 49 Rear (give or take, depending on changing temperatures; )
WAI (Warm Air Intake.)

[101Volts]

The next day, and the air dam's installed. It doesn't cover everything, there are 5 inches from the road that are not covered.

[freebeard]

I wouldn't worry. To cover everything would add frontal area. For instance, my Superbeetle has a tow hook that hangs down another 1-1 1/2".

Does it have a notch in the center to make a central jet?

[101Volts]

Most Recent Tank:

2022 - 11 - 08:

That tank went better than expected, if the final readout's right (I went to my usual Citgo station, instead of the B.P. station I went to the previous time to save $1.48.) The on-board meter (which was very accurate before mods) said 18.5 for this tank, but my current tank calculations say this:

18.71 MPG
290.1 Miles
15.506 Gallons

Only about the last 25 miles have the Air Dam on, so its effects aren't evident.

I admit, I did some EOCing this tank. I normally don't (and I don't want to,) but some road construction sapped my F.E., so I did on a few occasions.

Again, I have to stress the fact that using both 3rd Gear and also Cruise Control to shut off the injectors in certain speed ranges (and usually downhill) is helping my FE.

EDIT, 7 June 2023: This tank was not right, because I switched gas stations. The next tank was lower.

About Engine Heaters:

I'll keep up with using the block heater. It doesn't raise the temperature clear to operating, though; the most I saw was 136 F, before starting. I'll need to add another heater or two if I want it to be at or near operating temp right at the start.

I don't think this 4.0 has room for another block heater. Earlier, I said it looked like it did, but now that site seems wrong. I've looked at photos of the Ford 4.0 Engine Block, and as far as I can tell, there isn't another freeze plug. I think I need another immersion heater, but I have qualms against just using Kat's Heaters; they don't have the best reputation.

I have an early 1960s Heater with an element that sits in the coolant system. I don't know its wattage, or if it works and won't leak, and it needs a new electrical cord. Maybe I'll use that, but it's too early to say much about it.

I bought a 1500w water tank element from Home Depot some months ago, after seeing a thread from Oil Pan 4. I remember he said that he had heaters that were only screwed together, so I'm thinking of going that way.

Next Up:

Rear Wheel Skirting. It doesn't have to be super fancy, just some plastic that's well attached, maybe with an easily bent strip of aluminum to screw into.

Also, I need to change the oil pan gasket, along with the oil and filter. I've been using Amsoil Signature Series 10w30 + a FRAM Titanium or FRAM Ultra Synthetic filter (some of the best filters available, short of adding a "bypass" kit,) so I should still be good for a bit.

At the same time of the oil change, I plan to fill up the tank and add a bottle of Amsoil Performance Improver (for cleaning the injectors.) I don't use it every 4,000 miles (according to the bottle,) but once a year seems OK.

Originally Posted by freebeard

I wouldn't worry. To cover everything would add frontal area. For instance, my Superbeetle has a tow hook that hangs down another 1-1 1/2".

Does it have a notch in the center to make a central jet?

Frankly, I'm not sure what you mean by "a central jet," though I might guess it.

Oh, and the car has an Anti-Deer Bar on it. I've never hit a deer with it, but it's there.

[freebeard]

An extreme example

ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/front-splitters-do-they-work-37762.html#post604784

On a Toyota Supra

i.pinimg.com/originals/6c/1c/dc/6c1cdc8b320487a11334ff47c0141cb9.jpg

A splitter, same deal

http://trackdogracing.com/images/pro...splitter_d.jpg

I think the idea is a faster moving, unimpeded central jet draws air from around and between the tires. Just something I've seen. The other extreme is a small tab [or spat] in front of the tire.

[101Volts]

Originally Posted by freebeard

An extreme example
(images snipped from quote)

On a Toyota Supra
(images snipped from quote)

A splitter, same deal
(images snipped from quote)

I think the idea is a faster moving, unimpeded central jet draws air from around and between the tires. Just something I've seen. The other extreme is a small tab [or spat] in front of the tire.

Thanks for the idea, but I don't think I'll be doing that - at least not right now.

[101Volts]

============
Recent Changes:
============

Around 200,500, I changed the oil for the first time in nearly 2 years, and about 15,000 miles. Don't worry, though: I was using Amsoil Signature Series 10w30 and a Fram Ultra Filter, which is as good as an Amsoil Filter, only cheaper. At the same time, I took the oil pan off and made a new gasket for it, since I wanted to keep oil from leaking. I still have to re-gasket the Valve Covers, though.

I also changed the Air Filter with a FRAM Ultra (I was at least 25,000 overdue,) then shortly after that, I plugged the Warm Air Intake with the rag plug from the Cold Air Intake; I was getting tired of the low power up hills.

Lastly (after the most recent fill-up,) I need to get new tires soon anyway. Because of that, I've aired up the Front to 48, and the Rear to 53. That's working for maybe 1 MPG compared to 44 / 48, according to my gauges so far (though I'm not even 50 miles in.)

==========
Recent Tanks:
==========

The last 3 are averaging to 17.8. Two of the tanks were dragged down by me going to yard sales for 2 weeks in a row, and I expect this tank also will turn out lower than it could have been, because it's yard sale season.

I really need to get on the ball with that rear wheel skirting. I don't expect a giant difference, but it should help.

The Block Heater, in this 60 - 85 F degree weather, can usually get the engine to around 125 - 144 F before I start it. That's not accounting for after the antifreeze circulates through the engine, which lowers the temperature.

==========
Idea for Mod:
==========

Maybe one can call it goofy, but I've had the idea of making a Transmission Pan Heater with an old Waffle Iron that's kept at a low temperature,depending on the weather. If I can attach it well, and prevent water from getting in, I don't see how this couldn't be a very cheap and efficient way of slightly warming up my transmission before starting the car. I do have a dented 1960s Waffle Iron that I paid $1 for in a yard sale, and it's not doing much good with waffles anymore - the top and bottom don't line up quite right.

[ECO-AKJ]

The engine from the factory was made to run on 5W30 from the factory, but I do understand the thinking of running higher weight due to mileage but this engine has very tight bearing clearances, unlike the old pushrod engines of the 60s-80s, just my two cents, keep up the good work!

[Piotrsko]

Being an old timer: you ran thicker oil to prevent oil bypassing places where it should stay. Usually you found external evidence that it was leaking like a trail of smoke when accelerating, trail of smoke decelerating , smoke cloud idling. Oil fouling the plugs. Note the trend. With 50 weight you primed the crankcase with fuel to thin the oil enough to start an aircraft engine any time it was colder than 45f otherwise it wasn't going to crank.

Todays stuff has tighter clearances used than olden days had as new