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Old 09-16-2016, 01:32 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I'm impressed to see one at 200k-miles. They pop up here on craigslist all the time with blown head gaskets or transmissions, with half the mileage you've got on yours. Either you take dang good care of it, or you just happen to have the random odd one that's dependable.

Aero will get you to where you want to be, as you already appear to know. Best of luck!

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Old 09-16-2016, 01:37 PM   #12 (permalink)
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At 70 mph aeromods are going to be by far your best thing to look into.
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Old 09-16-2016, 04:10 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stubby79 View Post
I'm impressed to see one at 200k-miles. They pop up here on craigslist all the time with blown head gaskets or transmissions, with half the mileage you've got on yours. Either you take dang good care of it, or you just happen to have the random odd one that's dependable.

Aero will get you to where you want to be, as you already appear to know. Best of luck!
Well I've been the one owner. I've never peeled out, dumped the clutch, or had it above 75 mph it's whole life. I'm still on the original clutch, starter, alternator, radiator, engine and transmission, everything else has pretty much been replaced (hoses, belts ect). I do keep up on maintenance. Besides maintenance I think a lot of it has to do with how you drive the car. If you're driving it like a 911 turbo, an Daewoo Aveo isn't going to last. Also having 80% freeway miles help.
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Old 09-16-2016, 04:14 PM   #14 (permalink)
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At 70 mph aeromods are going to be by far your best thing to look into.
just picked up some material from Home depot to do side skirts and maybe a front air dam and partial grill block if I have enough mat remaining. Got some rust to fix on the rockers/bottoms of the doors before I can do the aero mods. Going to try to tackle it this sunday.
The material I'm going to use is actually commercial kitchen floor mats. They're rubber, approved for wet conditions, slightly rigid enough to stay straight, yet able to bend if necessary. Going to take some time to do the mods but I'm looking forward to it.

Also hit 350 miles with about 1/8th a tank of gas left. Tomorrow I'm heading down to my house from my apartment, about 35 miles. Pretty sure my next tank I'll finally hit 40mpg or more. Made some Pulse and glide mistakes that def skewed this gas tank.
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Old 09-16-2016, 05:24 PM   #15 (permalink)
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A power steering delete should make a pretty big difference in that car. And it shouldn't affect your driveability too much since you're mostly highway.

It's a constant, parasitic power-sap.

Speaking of power-saps, if you don't mind the heat, you can always pull the AC compressor, lines, and condenser (maybe evaporator if your system will blow air without it).

You could also pull the passenger air bag assembly since you don't even have a seat there :-P

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Old 09-16-2016, 05:36 PM   #16 (permalink)
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A power steering delete should make a pretty big difference in that car. And it shouldn't affect your driveability too much since you're mostly highway.

It's a constant, parasitic power-sap.

Speaking of power-saps, if you don't mind the heat, you can always pull the AC compressor, lines, and condenser (maybe evaporator if your system will blow air without it).

You could also pull the passenger air bag assembly since you don't even have a seat there :-P

Sam
Thanks for the reply. I'm going to ask my eco-mechanic about some additional modifications (mainly the stuff you mentioned) after I do phase 1 of the aero mods. I have a few more basic deletes to do as well before I start to tackle removing systems (such as A/C power steering ect).
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Old 09-16-2016, 07:40 PM   #17 (permalink)
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started to cut out my side skirts tonight. Bummer that my car has 10" of clearance by the front wheel, 12" at the rear wheel. Going with a 6" inch skirt, will be mounted to some stainless 3" L brackets I saw another ecomodder post in his thread. I have 69 and a half inches total length needed for my side skirts, and I'll end up with between 4" and 6" clearance. Figure I'm going to place the brackets 11" apart, 6 total on each side. If that doesn't make them rigid enough or flat enough I'll head back to home depot and mount additional brackets.

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Old 09-16-2016, 08:57 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Just read through, nice work so far... I had a Suzuki Forenza, so I've had the Daewoo experience too, lol... I thought that engine bay looked familiar... How did you get the ECU reprogrammed? I couldn't find a tuner for my life when I had that car...

You could very well end up in the top ten here, given enough work...

I think 6" of air dam and side skirt should do fine... You might also consider doing a belly pan, it helped my car a great deal, and mines not even complete... Wheel skirts are also a big gain, but you would cover up your wheels, which look great IMO... Maybe you could use polycarbonate?
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Old 09-16-2016, 09:22 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 19bonestock88 View Post
Just read through, nice work so far... I had a Suzuki Forenza, so I've had the Daewoo experience too, lol... I thought that engine bay looked familiar... How did you get the ECU reprogrammed? I couldn't find a tuner for my life when I had that car...

You could very well end up in the top ten here, given enough work...

I think 6" of air dam and side skirt should do fine... You might also consider doing a belly pan, it helped my car a great deal, and mines not even complete... Wheel skirts are also a big gain, but you would cover up your wheels, which look great IMO... Maybe you could use polycarbonate?
My mechanic has a program on his shop computer that allows you to go into the stock settings and adjust for modifications like an exhaust/air intake/ignition change. That's about all I know, as I don't physically do any of the heavy lifting with my car. Basically, more oxygen means less gas to fire. He only slightly modified the original settings. Only change I noticed is a slightly rougher idle in drive quality, lower idle RPM (from 1000 rpm stock, down to around 600 rpm after the mod)

Going to do these side skirts first, then tackle the front end. There's so many spots in the front end to catch air on the Daewoo. This will include the pass. mirror delete, pass wiper delete, antenna delete, as well as the grill block when I do the front air dam. Going to go low as possible with flexible ends on my dam so when I don't make clearance the dam bends slightly, yet stays rigid enough for the aero benefit.

For the wheel skirts, I'm tossing around the idea to get them professionally done, and if I do I'm going to inquire about getting a pan done, as well as the rear aero. I have no idea what's the best method for the underbody rear end.

Thanks for the interest and reply
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Old 09-17-2016, 12:17 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stubby79
Either you take dang good care of it, or you just happen to have the random odd one that's dependable.
Removing 10s of pounds and running empty means it's had a pretty easy life. Compared to say loading up all your buds and their gear and heading up a mountain pass.

OP -- While basjoos runs double walled side skirts very effectively, on the academic side you have Prof. Morelli and his 'banana car' so called because the rocker panels were radiused out to encourage crosswinds to pass under the vehicle.

Forcing crosswinds up and over the car will induce lift should you be driving sideways. I ask you, who hasn't driven sideways from time to time. In the 1990s there was a Eugene, OR band named Driving Sideways.

The alternative is wheel spats, the theoretical optimum best exemplified by Mr. aerohead's mighty Template.


Here's my own suggestion for a spat:


The ones they put on new cars are as small as a lottery ticket.

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