04-14-2017, 06:41 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnathanf1lm
Ive thought about a lifepo4 battery. I am planning on taking the money from the stuff i took off to do other mods at no cost.
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This statement baffles me.
Are you able to sell parts you took off?
If you were, that is now money in your pocket. You could spend it on something sensible like good beer. If you spend it on expensive aluminum bits, it has a cost. Period.
My personal opinion, is what others here are saying. The fuel saving is infinitesimal. If you have to pay someone to mount and balance tires from your steelies to the aluminum rims, it likely isn't worth it. If they already have good tires on them, wait until the current tires need replacing and make the switch then. Or maybe put all seasons on one set of rims and LRR summer tires on the others.
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04-14-2017, 06:55 AM
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#12 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Anyone else notice some really bad advice given here?
Removing bolts for zipties?
Really?
Cars have a tendency to move and vibrate and bounce around. Do you really want all the stuff inside rattling around?
Cutting out bracing?
I suspect an engineer may have put it there for a reason.
And damn near weightless insulation mounted to the firewall? There's a reason they called it a firewall. There really hot stuff on the other side. Do you want that heat coming through any more than is necessary? Will it effect all the electronics behind the dash?
And that bit of metal in the steering wheel, yeah, I'm sure they put it in their for better overall weight distribution. They couldn't possibly have done it to kep you from being impaled on the steering column in the event of an accident. I realize that this may be a non-issue if you are properly belted in, but for the .00000000000000027/mpg it costs me, I'll leave it there.
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04-14-2017, 09:06 AM
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#13 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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i wont bother putting any real money into it to be honest. but shaving and removing stuff i dont need never hurts anything and will only increase my mpg. The reason why weight reduction isnt the best mpg meathod is because a lighter car takes less fuel to accelerate and decelerate (if engine breaking) but once up to speed it does nothing really and it negatively effects mpg when coasting due to less momentum. Thank you physics i guess
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04-14-2017, 03:12 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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Human Environmentalist
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I always link to this guy when people ask about weight reduction. He removed 800 lbs from his car.
The thread pretty much covers everything you could consider doing to remove weight.
I'll add that most people could stand to loose about 20 lbs themselves. That's free right there, and actually saves money on the grocery bill.
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04-14-2017, 03:16 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redpoint5
I'll add that most people could stand to loose about 20 lbs themselves. That's free right there, and actually saves money on the grocery bill.
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There'd be nothing left if I did that.
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04-15-2017, 09:21 AM
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#16 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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Okay i may have to post this in the forum to get some expert answers. But i was considering removing the air intake system and just running a filter off of the intake manifold. Reasons: weight reduction of the whole set up and i have a map so no oil issues. And it would basically act as a wai since it would be right there basically on the side of the engine. Issues air intake tempature: what is good and what is bad. Wai temps get too hot ill lose timing advance and such. And lack of power (dont use it at all but dont want to lose some if i lose mpg.
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04-15-2017, 10:10 AM
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#17 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Many air intakes are "tuned" to smooth out power delivery across the RPM band. So, by removing it, you may be losing torque in one place and gaining it in another, usually resulting in more "lumpy" power delivery. This may or may not matter to you; it certainly doesn't to me. In fact, I have my stock snorkel removed and replaced with dryer ducting to suck warm air from around the catalytic converter.
The good: Warm air intakes almost always improve economy, up to a point. I don't think my car starts to retard timing until the intake air gets around 180F, and I've aimed to have the incoming air be around 115-125F. In the winter this can be a 10-25mpg improvement where I live, when the air outside is 40 below zero.
Warm air improves economy directly by reducing power - warm air is less dense, resulting in the throttle plate being more open and thus lower pumping losses. Cold air lowers economy in gasoline engines, but improves power because you can get more air into the engine. If you want the best of both worlds, you want a flap or valve to feed your engine warm air at part load, and switch over to cold under heavy loads. One car that had this, to my memory, was the Honda CRX. The power gained under load and the economy gained at other times was far larger than the reductions caused by the weight of the system; removing it would be akin to unbolting a turbo from a TDI to save weight.
The bad: Almost all aftermarket filters allow more dirt into your engine than the factory air box, and rarely improve anything for a stock engine.
Last edited by Ecky; 04-15-2017 at 10:31 AM..
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04-15-2017, 10:30 AM
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#18 (permalink)
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Eco Sol
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^^ Beat me to it.
Idk about using the filter directly attached to the throttle body. I suppose it would work fine. The vast majority of vehicles (with the exception of forced induction engines) will see improved fuel economy by switching to a WAI and removing their stock unit.
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Last edited by Shortie771; 04-16-2017 at 11:19 AM..
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04-16-2017, 04:42 AM
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#19 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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Well directly on the throttle body seems the most weight saving as possible. Issue is my ecu is on the side of my air filter box so i cant delete the whole thing. Ill have to get a scan gauge and monitor temps and timing and compare it to before and after. And ik aftermarket air filters filter less ik thats why i would try to find the best filteration cone style filter.
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04-16-2017, 08:51 AM
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#20 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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And sorry i didnt see the post asking about selling stuff. I mount and balance my own tires. I have wintertires on the steels right now with all season sitting there to go on the al rims i bought. I bought a manual rack for like 70 but my power steering worked just fine. So i currently have the power steering pump, rack and lines on ebay. I have the tow hitch that was on it off on ebay. I have the engine cover i took off and on ebay. When i put the rims on i plan on removing the tpms module from the car and selling that. (Pointless to keep it unless i get sensor for the other rims).
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