2011 hyundai accent weight reduction (looking for some advice)

[NoD~]

A agree. In my Neon, I did some major weight reducing modifications. I don't remember what my final numbers were, but I took out a lot of weight, but with safety compromises. Those are the risks I was willing to take on an already terribly unsafe car. It was a terrible idea as well! But, live and learn.

For my insight, I'm must more reserved, but still pull out anything that's unnecessary. Weight really is a tiny fraction of your MPG, even city. Though, if its something you don't need, there's no reason to keep it, no matter the size or weight. Just use your head and it should be quite easily and your downsides should be little to none.

#1 way to save gas starts and ends with the driver's mentality behind the wheel. Aero and weight reduction is nothing in comparison!

Off topic: Recently picked up ultra-light backpacking. You think some of the weight reduction of a car is extreme...

[johnathanf1lm]

Al rims are currently on so lets see if ny mpg goes up or down a hair. Will be deleting the tpms system shortly.

[johnathanf1lm]

Also sorry to late answer about the air box. Talking to my drag racing old timers i know. The air intake isnt really tuned for low or high ( you do have resonators that kind of dampen air flow vibrations though). Anything before the throttle body (intake runners) are. Its kind of like the exhaust with the headers in a sense.

[Shortie771]

Originally Posted by johnathanf1lm

Also sorry to late answer about the air box. Talking to my drag racing old timers i know. The air intake isnt really tuned for low or high ( you do have resonators that kind of dampen air flow vibrations though). Anything before the throttle body (intake runners) are. Its kind of like the exhaust with the headers in a sense.

Tuned or not, you will most likely see better fuel economy by using a WAI. A big part of it is that it will help your car warm up faster. It also helps that it recirculates warm air into the engine for a more complete but of the air/fuel mixture and a teeny tiny bit because it saves a little weight.

Originally Posted by NoD~

#1 way to save gas starts and ends with the driver's mentality behind the wheel. Aero and weight reduction is nothing in comparison!

I 100% agree! Driving technique is the best way to improve fuel efficiency. I've seen nearly a 10mpg improvement mostly through changing the way I drive.

[johnathanf1lm]

Okay so i hate for this thread to change its course to a driving one but... Okay so i engine off (or e-off for short) when i safely can (Road to my house, down a couple of hills etc). I e-on in neutral always when a can (off ramps, hills in busy areas etc). I dont pulse and glide due to highways here not being flat and also sometimes windy( tried it and i would be pulse and gliding every minute not work wear on clutch etc). Always try to be in the tallest gear i can be in mistly 4-5 gear. Here is my downfall which i do alot is engine braking due to alot of hills where i live. (My work commute is 10 min about 5 miles. And i go down 3 and up 3 somewhat steep hills to and back with turns-stop signs- red lights etc. And thats just my work commute. I am assuming thats my biggest damper on getting way of 40 mpg. Thats another reason why i figured weight reduction because lighter the car less engine braking. Ps when i say engine brake i am using the engine to keep a steady speed down a hill or try to limit how quicky i am getting a speed increase and never engine brake in anything lower then 3rd gear.

[Shortie771]

I personally never engine brake. I accelerate downhill never more than 5mph over the speed limit (keeps me out of trouble since most people are still going even faster) and that allows me to coast​ up most hills (with engine off) or at least get me most of the way up, before having to apply light throttle to maintain speed. Doing it this way is more efficient than engine braking down hills and accelerating up them.

Also weight​ reduction won't really help much for hills. You can't just factor in the uphill, you have to also take the downhill into account. Being lighter helps you up a hill but, it hurts you going down hills because the heavier a car is the easier it will accelerate while going down hill.

[johnathanf1lm]

I only engine brake when going down a hill that is going to require me to stop.

[niky]

I know the talk of intakes is well into the past, but I'd say negatory on deleting the intake piping.

The stock rubber piping is about five or six pounds of weight. If you want, you can get rid of the snorkels and whatnot pointing out of the engine bay, but deleting the length of pipe between the air filter and the throttle body can have negative effects on power and efficiency.

Simply: That piping length is tuned to provide you power... we've experimented with it on a number of cars and simplifying and shortening things leads to less power, which you don't want when going up hills.

If you want a WAI, go ahead and do it, but leave the stock tract after the filter head. Or, if you want better flow and efficiency, replace the piping with some nice smooth stainless pipes and bends.

[johnathanf1lm]

The piping effects are next to none on even a dyno but i do agree that it does have a purpose. I scraped deleting the whole air box due to the ecu is mounted externally on the outside of the air filter housing. Also i have a pcv line going before the throttle body so i have to play with adapters and such. Also ive never really like the dependability of those cotton wire filtere engine wise. My current plan is to delete the piping going from the outside to the airbox housing. That way it sucks in a hair more warmer air and shaves a micro amount of weight.

[johnathanf1lm]

Also shortie yes weight reduction has a upside and downside on hills and even flat roads. You gain easier acceleration but lose momentum. But since we have gravity, friction, and air resistance acceleration will use more energy then keeping at the same speed. Or even engine off coasting. Issue is the differences are small between the 2. But in my situation where i have a stop sign or a low speed turn etc at the bottom of a hill. I cant be staying in neutral cooking my brakes, so i slightly engine brake to keep my speed controlable (able to stop normally or brake for a turn). If i neutral coast on any of the hills i drive down on my way to work ill have to be stopping @50 mph in a 35 zone while still going down hill.