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Old 03-10-2011, 03:43 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I noticed a significant gain when I got rid of the ladder rack from my truck (I had the same brand).

My vote, sell the ladder rack and buy some steel to build a simple ladder rack similar to this:

The main difference being that the front rack is the same height or just slightly lower than the cab. The rear part of the rack would be a little lower yet so on the rare occasion you haul a ladder, there is a slight angle to keep it from hitting the cab. This gives you a rack when you need it without it disrupting airflow above the cab.

Then use the same rack to build a simple sloped cover over the back.

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Old 03-10-2011, 09:56 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjbell View Post
Yeah, I didn't think of the gate coming off because of the easy removal design. Good point!
Simple solution...use a hose clamp on the easy removal pivot point...keeps the thieves from making a quick buck from yer tailgate and it won't fall off if you have it partially open.
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Old 03-10-2011, 10:02 AM   #13 (permalink)
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BZP T-100 (2010) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
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Last 3: 23.66 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2009) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 19.01 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2012) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 25.45 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2013) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 25.79 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2014) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 23.18 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2015) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 23.85 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2016) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 17.62 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2017) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
90 day: 20.78 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2018) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
90 day: 20.19 mpg (US)

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You might be able to make a modular ladder rack something similar to this by hanging it off of yer side boxes (depending on how well yer boxes are secured) and put the extensions in when you need a ladder rack.

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Old 03-10-2011, 10:23 AM   #14 (permalink)
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BamZipPow, how about a way to raise and lower the back of that rack and have a sheet of aluminum on the top? have it down when you don't need it, and then raise it when you have to carry the ladder
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Old 03-10-2011, 11:27 AM   #15 (permalink)
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BZP T-100 (2010) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
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Last 3: 23.66 mpg (US)

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Last 3: 19.01 mpg (US)

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Last 3: 25.45 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2013) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 25.79 mpg (US)

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Last 3: 23.18 mpg (US)

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Last 3: 23.85 mpg (US)

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Last 3: 17.62 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2017) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
90 day: 20.78 mpg (US)

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90 day: 20.19 mpg (US)

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joenavy85 View Post
BamZipPow, how about a way to raise and lower the back of that rack and have a sheet of aluminum on the top? have it down when you don't need it, and then raise it when you have to carry the ladder
Good idea...



If he gits a tapered headache rack and puts in some rails on the back of the boxes that can adjust up/down when he needs the rack to be up...that might work. Not sure about the sheet of aluminum though...might be kinda pricey/heavy. I could see a sheet of plywood or something with maybe a hole cut out fer seeing out the back.

He could almost build an adjustable aerocap based on the headache rack and adjustable ladder rails! Slap on some sides that can lift out of the way...maybe made of Coroplast or FRP.
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Old 03-10-2011, 11:42 AM   #16 (permalink)
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You have already identified the easiest way to improve your mileage. Get a fuel economy gauge and drive slower. Just driving 55 mph can improve your economy 20% or more. You already have one of the best engines for a pickup truck. If you want to do something for aero move your tool boxes inward and have them inward of the truck cab.

A few years ago a friend and myself drove out to New Jersey from Iowa in an older Dodge Diesel, it had a 5 speed and a standard topper.

We had to make the trip in a weekend and drove it 75 mph most of the time. It averaged about 20mpg. I was impressed.
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Old 03-10-2011, 12:18 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamZipPow View Post
Good idea...



If he gits a tapered headache rack and puts in some rails on the back of the boxes that can adjust up/down when he needs the rack to be up...that might work. Not sure about the sheet of aluminum though...might be kinda pricey/heavy. I could see a sheet of plywood or something with maybe a hole cut out fer seeing out the back.

He could almost build an adjustable aerocap based on the headache rack and adjustable ladder rails! Slap on some sides that can lift out of the way...maybe made of Coroplast or FRP.
That's what I was thinking of doing, get the single bar headache rack and secure the boxes up front to that. Then have leg stand to make the back of the boxes solid. Then mount two short pipes to the top of the boxed in the rear that the back bar from the rackit rack will slide and clip on when I need to carry a ladder. Then I can go from there on a cover. I tried it last night just setting the bar on the boxes and it's only a slight angle so even carrying a 28 ft extension it wouldn't be sticking up too high in the front.
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Old 03-10-2011, 12:26 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Varn View Post
You have already identified the easiest way to improve your mileage. Get a fuel economy gauge and drive slower. Just driving 55 mph can improve your economy 20% or more. You already have one of the best engines for a pickup truck. If you want to do something for aero move your tool boxes inward and have them inward of the truck cab.

A few years ago a friend and myself drove out to New Jersey from Iowa in an older Dodge Diesel, it had a 5 speed and a standard topper.

We had to make the trip in a weekend and drove it 75 mph most of the time. It averaged about 20mpg. I was impressed.
Yeah, the cummins in dodges are solid engines known for getting good mileage. I bet slowing down to 60 and doing some rack mods I could 25mpg. Then I'll have to make my goal 30
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Old 03-10-2011, 12:34 PM   #19 (permalink)
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May not work with your work boxes but for anyone else, here's an alternative.
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Old 03-10-2011, 03:08 PM   #20 (permalink)
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BZP T-100 (2010) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 24 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2011) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 23.66 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2009) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 19.01 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2012) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 25.45 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2013) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 25.79 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2014) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 23.18 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2015) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 23.85 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2016) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 17.62 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2017) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
90 day: 20.78 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2018) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
90 day: 20.19 mpg (US)

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Have you considered a partial grill block? I started out with 33% and now I'm up to 66% blocked. Coolant and underhood temps have not risen. I use my Ultra-Gauge to keep an eye out on the coolant temps and a Dwyer/Love Control controller to keep an eye out on the underhood temps. It seems my underhood temps seem cooler with the grill block than it did without it. My thermocoupler probe sits on the air intake hose by the throttle body. Just made a new grill block on my T-100 today...from aluminum flashing!





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