Alternator delete switch

[oil pan 4]

Whats more reliable then a pneumatic actuator countered by spring in a manor so that if the actuator or the air supply were to fail alternator belt would engage the crank pulley by default?

[oldtamiyaphile]

I've never seen a ride on mower tensioning system, but it seems like a disengaged belt would have quite a lot of friction rubbing against it's guides? As a guess a ride on mower is designed to only be moved short distances with the blade disengaged, it's primarily designed for mowing with the belts tensioned. I wonder if extended use of the alternator disconnect would lead to quickly worn belts.

How much energy does a mechanical diesel need anyway? With so much roof space on a suburban it seems like a perfect candidate for some flexible solar panels. Before you say 'glow plugs', they're only needed on a cold start when the panels would have had time to fully top up the batteries. Of course if you do a lot of night driving it might be less attractive.

[oil pan 4]

Only the injector pump is mechanical now.
The fuel pump, coolant pump are electric now. Other electric loads I have that will only run occasionally is that little ARB air compressor it only draws like 10 amps a shut off pressure, some more lights. Other goodies I have in my possession, but not installed yet are a Gast air compressor that takes 50 amps just to free spin it (it is a starter motor with 2 air compressors on it) and a Xantrex 1000 watt pure sine wave inverter.
Then also 98 inch by 18 foot deck tandem axle trailer with 4 electric brake hubs plus its light (my trailers lights are full LED already)
Other devices I need to acquire are a vacuum pump to operate the hvac controls and an LED light bar.
When I need the alternator, I really need the alternator to produce.

I already have solar panels, a left over from when I had lead acid batteries. Only about 20 watts worth. But it could bring the lead acid batteries up to 13.4 volts on a freezing cold day as long as the sun was out.
I want to go from 15 to 20 watts to more like at least 70. There are a lot of really cool flat flexible panels out there now compared to even just 2 or 3 years ago.
But that's a whole nother post.

The glow plugs are needed pretty much any time the engine coolant temperature is below 120'F or it just wont start, or I will have to crank it several seconds longer to get it to fire.
If I know it will fire with out using the glow plugs I don't use them, saves the battery, relay and glow plugs.

If I can get the belt holding guards just right when the alternator belt goes loose it should only be touching the guard, the alt pulley and be sitting just above the crank pulley not touching it at all.

[oil pan 4]

I think I figured out how to do it.
Billet Specialties drivers side alternator bracket and windy nation linier actuator.

[oil pan 4]

I got the windynation linier actuator. It looks like it will work for what I need.
The Billet Specialties drivers side alt bracket should be here any day (Monday?).

[yellow2000sr]

Couldn't you possibly come up with a new bracket/mount to offset the alternator back from the belt. Do an AC clutch style pulley on the alternator then have a machine shop fab up a cupped plate to weld onto the AC pulley. Then fasten the factory pulley to that plate.

Seems easier then messing with a bunch of actuators/air lines, and extra wiring.

Just have a single switch to turn clutch on/off.

[oil pan 4]

The AC clutch pulley won't over drive the alternator to the desired speed at idle. It would only overdrive the alt by between 1:1 and 1:2, I need the full 1:3 overdrive. I have the billet specialties drivers side low alt mount and I am going to replace the tensioning bolt with a liner actuator
I need the alt for winter driving so the alt on off will be manual with easy belt removal, then fully automatic later.