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Old 11-15-2009, 12:42 AM   This thread is in the EcoModder Project Library | #1 (permalink)
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Deceptive - '98 Dodge Neon R/T
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Alternatorless Test in a Neon (still disappointing, but now w/slightly better results

Decided to test this out today.

7.5 miles of freeway, at 55 mph each way, 4 1 way trips averaged together for each test.

First test was alternator connected, no accesories on.

4 runs averaged out to 42.7 MPG, measured with scanguage. Run differences were less then 1% error margin.

Second test was with alternator connected, lights and fogs on, ac on (my belt is removed, so this is the added load from thee compressor clutch, engine fans being on, and hvac fan).

4 runs averaged out to 40.6 MPG, measured again with scanguage. Run differences were about 1% margin of error.

Last test was with the alternator belt removed.

4 runs averaged out to 43.6 MPG. Same measuring standards as above.

So i was pretty dissapointed in the results, about 2% better then with the alternator with no accesories, and 7% better vs having accesories running.

Couple things that might factor into my lousy results.

At 55 mph, in 5th gear, i have way more then enough power. Stock hp and tq ratings at the crank are 150 hp and 133 ft-lbs. Additionally im at 2500 rpm at 55 mph. And the engines a 2.0L.

Maybe with the other tranny and tires (1900RPM at 55mph, and lower RR) id have some better results, as well as if the car was a SOHC instead of DOHC (sohc has 1 mm smaller valves, as well as a milder cam and a tiny bit more compression)

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Old 11-15-2009, 02:19 AM   #2 (permalink)
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You should check your voltage with the alternator connected vs disconnected. Running at a lower voltage will severely impact how the ECU, fuel pump and ignition system behave. I think the lower voltage big negative effect. You would need to find a way to maintain 14v under load with the alternator disconnected to see real FE benefits.

Last edited by tjts1; 11-15-2009 at 02:38 AM..
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Old 11-15-2009, 02:25 AM   #3 (permalink)
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DC/DC converter works, but will drain a single battery faster, as there are conversion losses, and of course, there is higher amp draw at 12v to make what's necessary at 14V.
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Old 11-15-2009, 02:41 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I would build a large capacity lithium pack that that you plug in at home. It should be a lot cheaper than building a battery that has to power the whole car.
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Old 11-15-2009, 02:58 AM   #5 (permalink)
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i planned to eventually (maybe next year) build a li-ion pack for it to run all the electronics in the car, especially since im converting both the water pump and ac compressor to run on electric motors vs dragging the engine down. Of course long trips ill probably still need the alt, but im hoping to get at least 6 hours of runtime from a li-ion pack. I can afford to add about 150 pounds of battery, since thats how much ill be lightening the car elsewise.

Voltage was down, to about 11.5 during the test, not sure what kind of numbers that could be mpg wise, but im sure it didnt help. Another test ill be doing next week is checking the stock computer vs the mopar performance pcm thats in there now. A lot of people have said that they never notice a diff in fuel economy when swtiching between the 2, so im going to do a test. The differences are that they mopar unit advances timing, but also ignores the egr. So my mileage numbers right now are egr-less.
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Old 11-15-2009, 03:03 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Hell, my 2.4's EGR started working the other day, but now the engine lopes at idle and skips once every 1,000 years at speed. Ran fine before the EGR started working again...
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Old 11-15-2009, 03:07 AM   #7 (permalink)
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btw ive been looking at those exact batteries from that video. Anyone know a way to purchase those? The company says that there only providing in bulk right now, but i wonder how the guy in the video got his.
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Old 11-15-2009, 03:12 AM   #8 (permalink)
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HobbyKing Online R/C Hobby Store : LiFePo4

I know there are a few other vendors that might be cheaper.
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Old 11-15-2009, 09:13 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christ View Post
Hell, my 2.4's EGR started working the other day, but now the engine lopes at idle and skips once every 1,000 years at speed. Ran fine before the EGR started working again...
I had this happen and found out the hard way that it was stuck open, even at idle. Burned my hand on the tube going to the intake manifold.
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Old 11-15-2009, 03:51 PM   #10 (permalink)
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i think ill be testing the stock computer today, ill post results tonight. Egr-less but with advanced timing vs egr-ed and retarded timing.

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