Another car for MetroMPG: convertible 1991 Pontiac Firefly (Geo Metro)

[MetroMPG]

Originally Posted by crexcrex

The problem with the convert is that they leak like a sieve and rust out the floorpan including the rocker panels

This car is the same: the floor pan has been repaired on both sides in the past. And now the repairs need repairs. The rockers themselves appear solid though.

But I just pulled the carpet up on the driver's side today and there is some (not unexpected) more rust removal and welding to do.

More importantly, the previous owner had the thing undercoated regularly, so aside from the rust that went from the inside out through the passenger compartment, there's not a lot of rust underneath. E.g. there's little evidence of the dreaded Metro control arm mount rot - happily.

So, while there's no doubt this thing would fold up like a wet kleenex box in a head-on crash, at least the wheels aren't going to fall off before then.

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I'm having trouble finding a believable published weight for this thing. Consumer Guide Auto says 1753 lbs. It feels heavier than that. The actual owner's manual doesn't say anything.

The door jamb placard says the gross vehicle weight is 2290 lbs / 1039 kg with 388 lbs / 176 kg max people/cargo capacity. That means a 1902 lbs / 863 kg curb weight. Seems more believable.

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bestclimb: I tried removing a little section of decal today and that works. The next problem is the virgin paint underneath the decals vs. the exposed, worn, scratched, dull, 19 year-old paint elsewhere. There's actually a slight "ridge" in the paint where the decal was (the exposed paint is worn down slightly by comparison). Not a big deal to me. A bit of rubbing compound will take the sharpness off the ridge and help bring the old paint back.

[bestclimb]

You can blend the paint that was protected with some 320grit wet sand paper. Wash the car and wax. Should be pretty hard to see where the decals where.

[MetroMPG]

Pictures!

I set up an album: 1991 Pontiac Firefly (Geo Metro) convertible - before

Here are a few:





Below: previous rust repair, driver's side looking back



Below: previous rust repair, passenger side looking back



Below: rust where the rocker panel, floor pan & door pillar meet

[MetroMPG]

Also worth mentioning: the transmission is GOOD. No 2nd gear synchro issues. I'd say that's unusual for a Metro of this vintage that was mostly city driven. I think the previous owners/drivers deserve some kudos for not thrashing it.

The car is definitely worth saving, as long as that rust can be repaired (and I think it can be).

[Christ]

I think you can save it, Darin.

I'll see if I can find that one site I found before that had the Metro panels.

[Christ]

Parts Page - '89 Suzuki Swift

[MetroMPG]

This disassembly happened relatively easily. The fact I wasn't halted by nuts & bolts completely rusted frozen is a good sign.





I found actual duct tape in the fiberglass repair I'm peeling back there.

This is no place for duct tape and fiberglass! It's a structural area and I'll be replacing that repair with steel welded in.

[Daox]

Look like ya got a little work to do. Luckily not much of it is cosmetic (just because of the time it takes to make it all look pretty).

[Christ]

I see there's going to be some pretty large areas being cut out there... all those "spots" of rust are going to turn out to be much larger than they appear now, if past experience speaks true.

However, it doesn't look too painful to repair. I suggest spraying the whole underside with some line-x or something similar, when you're finished.

[MetroMPG]

Tim: yes, VERY glad there's little cosmetic work to be done.

Topher: you're right.... I've already turned a couple of "small" holes into gaping ones. But not unexpected; I've done that before! Fortunately, aside from that junction of the forward portion of the rocker/floor/A-pillar area, the majority of the bad stuff is limited to the floor pan itself, not the structural bits. (Well, the more obviously structural bits -the floor isn't just to keep your toes dry.)

The rear jack points are solid, as are the suspension mount points.

The front jack points are directly under the swiss cheese of that junction area, so I'll need to rebuild it properly.

In taking off the old repair at the junction, I'm finding some duct tape, bondo and fiberglass.