Another METRO Project

[Natalya]

Why not just get a new head from a junkyard Geo?

[MPGeo]

Originally Posted by Natalya

Why not just get a new head from a junkyard Geo?

A junkyard head will never be new...
But I do understand your point, and that is a good option for anyone who would like to do a quick repair... A quick swap of heads could put you back on the road quickly.

In my case I am not exactly in a hurry. But beyond that and I'm rebuilding the engine w/ all new components. Putting a junkyard head straight on would not be a wise thing to do unless you take the time to go through it anyways. You would still want to ensure it is flat, that there are no cracks in the coolant passages, and at the very least have the valves vacuum tested and lifters inspected... That's what I was going to do, except w/ new lifters... and found that more needed to be done.

There is a saying that goes something like this: If you don't have the time (or money) to do it right the first time, you won't have the time (or money) to fix it later either...

[Daox]

While you got it apart, there is something that isn't uncommon to gunk up in the oil pump. Something to do with the relief I believe. Just take it apart and clean it.

[MPGeo]

Thanks Daox, that is a great advice.

In my case the engine block, crank, rods, & pickup tube are the only things I'll be reusing internally on the lower-end, everything else is new and I have the parts already, just need to get to assembling sometime soon hopefully.

I lost steam with the head issue... But on the cylinder head end of things everything will be new as well, except the head itself, springs and retainers... and the cam will be different, although not new.

[MPGeo]

So I've been waiting on the cyl. head parts I ordered to show up.. that's held me up for about a week... So this past Tuesday the nitride treated valves & guides showed up.



The 3.52 tranny showed up that same day too..
(not much to see here)


So Wednesday morning I took the head to the engine machine shop I usually use, and they did a full valve job, replaced all the guides, and put in the new guide seals I brought them (their usually always included in any head gasket set you buy)...

The shop also found some pitting cavities that they suspected where located at the sealing area of the gasket, so they asked me to bring the gasket in. After sizing the gasket we found the that the two cavities in questions extended across the sealing ring. So it would have leaked compression. So they welded them up and surfaced the head just enough to clean weld.



And to top it all off I went to pick up my head Friday, and wen I cam back from machine shop, the XFI cam I had ordered last week was at my door steps waiting for me.



So now I have everything I need to build the engine and put the engine compartment back together...
Everything except time

[Bicycle Bob]

Thanks for the inspiration. One Metro list I haunt has had considerable chatter about blocked EGR passages leading to valve troubles. I think those stainless valves are only needed for the turbos, the first love at 3tech. I didn't get a reply from them re: a cam last year, so I hope I have an XFI one in the mail from the US. I assumed it would be a bolt-in, though. What other head mods will I need?

These are noisy little boxes with just a driver's seat, so my audio system is based on ear cans.

[MPGeo]

Originally Posted by Bicycle Bob

Thanks for the inspiration. One Metro list I haunt has had considerable chatter about blocked EGR passages leading to valve troubles. I think those stainless valves are only needed for the turbos, the first love at 3tech. I didn't get a reply from them re: a cam last year, so I hope I have an XFI one in the mail from the US. I assumed it would be a bolt-in, though. What other head mods will I need?

These are noisy little boxes with just a driver's seat, so my audio system is based on ear cans.

Thanks for your comments. The cam replacement is a simple bolt-in swap. No extra head mods are needed to make that transition happen, but there is allot of info out there concerning the modified cam gears that advance your cam timing and that's about the only other thing I would consider when replacing the cam, since it would have to come out anyways to go on your new cam.

Unfortunately I tried to purchase one of these cam gears from 3T and I have yet to hear back after two emails, and 1+ month wait...

[MPGeo]

OK so I have some updates. So this past weekend had a chance to work on the engine a bit and I went ahead and built the engine.

It's almost finished, only need to clean out the old oil pan gasket and install the oil pan, but engine is built, manifolds on... so I might get a chance this next weekend. But figured I would share a few pics of the progress.



Main Bearings




Gaping Piston Rings








New WP & Oil Pump. Ready for Cyl. Head Install


New Lifters. Ready for XFI Cam

[MPGeo]

So from all the info I have read, a TRUE or Factory XFI cam, not only has less lift and duration... but also has a built in 4 degree advance.

Also, I've read that the most recommended for our engines is 10 degrees of cam advance.

The XFI cam that I have might give me problems, but I'm going to try it anyways, and worst case I will just have to swap the factory cam back in until I find another XFI replacement IF it doesn't pan out.

The ""XFI"" cam I received has no wear marks on it, and it came with some receipts from the grind place... but the grind is irregular... I measured it with my micrometer and the lobe height is less than XFI specs by over a thou... and it's not consistent... Cyl.1 Intake lift is less than Exhaust, Cyl. 2 both same lift, Cyl. 3 Exhaust lift is less than Intake...

This sounds like it's going to be interesting... So I want to try it out

[Bicycle Bob]

My understanding is that the cam timing is retarded about 5 deg. to reduce NOX emissions, but I'd check that number. To modify a pulley, I'd consider milling the bolt holes into slots, and just soft soldering or gluing in machined crescents to finish the job.