Anyone using 0w20 Mobil-1 oil in Metro/Swift?

[oil pan 4]

Does that kind of engine at least have a roller cam?
Do you have a oil pressure gauge that reads PSI?

[Varn]

It is the 2 valve 5.4 ohc with rollers. 4 speed auto. I have never had to work on it in the 50,000 miles and 5+ years of ownership. If I drive it in good weather I can get 18/19 mpg with a good load in it. I seldom ever drive it empty.

Edit
My oil gauge is ford. Probably just a switch hooked to a pseudo gauge. It goes up when the engine turns on. My findings are based on observation of fuel usage and oil consumption.

[BHarvey]

Go to bobistheoilguy.com and there are plenty of sources (engineers/oil blenders) that have much more knowledge than I and they will tell you thick oil runs hotter. This is due to an increase in oil pressure which takes more energy to pump, and lower flow through the engine which gives the oil more time to suck up heat.

I just put my oil temp gauge on at my last oil change. At the end of this tank I will be changing it again and am switching weight so I can tell you then what my car does.

Getting ready to also swap the oil in the bike for one grade thinner to see what happens. Temps on it with 15w40 run 200f-210f on the highway with a 60f temp.

[Varn]

Harvey
be careful about using any oil that has friction modifiers in your bike. You might end up with a slipping clutch, increased temps and burned plates.

[Varn]

You know Harvey, I would rather believe my own experiences just as you probably are better served getting your own data.

I am sure if there were some magic bullet for oil that worked for nearly everyone there would be no viable options. Everyone would demand the same product from every company. I am convinced at what works for the vehicles that I own. My vw has 250k miles and my mercedes has 200+Kmiles. There is no way I would ever put that thin of oil in them. They may both be running in another 10-15 years, I believes in the oil film god.

[BHarvey]

If your oil choice has served you well, and you are pleased, then that is all that matters.

[Rusty94cx]

Used to wrench on a guys cars he had two vws and an Audi nothing but castrol 10 30w nothing fancy no synth no high milage and he had 200xxx on 2 and 300xxx on one. My old Volvo had 300xxx on it didn't use a drop didnt smoke and I ran any I repeat anything in that car any weight any type anything what every was on clearance sale or custom leftover oil change blends. So as stated above whatever oil makes you your wallet and car happy. There was a guy that had a Volvo v70 2001 that ran 0-30 or 0-20 salesman car had 250xxx on it ran great so.....

[wmjinman]

Well, I've had cars that lasted a long time on good ol' non-synthetic 10w30, too. I was just contemplating going down to 0w20 synthetic if the extra "thin-ness" would yield a bit more mpg. But so far, I'm happy with the choice of 0w30 synthetic as a compromise. The lighter "0" weight to hopefully help with the cold start, and then the comfort of knowing it's still "30" during the majority of the operations while warmed-up.

[Pierrel]

Originally Posted by wmjinman

Well, I've had cars that lasted a long time on good ol' non-synthetic 10w30, too. I was just contemplating going down to 0w20 synthetic if the extra "thin-ness" would yield a bit more mpg. But so far, I'm happy with the choice of 0w30 synthetic as a compromise. The lighter "0" weight to hopefully help with the cold start, and then the comfort of knowing it's still "30" during the majority of the operations while warmed-up.

Hey! Some major things happened in life last spring, but now I'm back, altleast a bit. I'm going to do an oil change In the morning, and I bought some fully synthetic 0W30 oil today. How has your engine held up? Did you see any effects what so ever? Winter is coming with freezing levels, and I think the 0W will make good for cold starts. Though I do have some "rattles" from what I think is the lifters. Hopelly this will get better after the oil change. IF the viscosity isn't to low!....

Thoughts?

[wmjinman]

Originally Posted by Pierrel

Hey! Some major things happened in life last spring, but now I'm back, altleast a bit. I'm going to do an oil change In the morning, and I bought some fully synthetic 0W30 oil today. How has your engine held up? Did you see any effects what so ever? Winter is coming with freezing levels, and I think the 0W will make good for cold starts. Though I do have some "rattles" from what I think is the lifters. Hopelly this will get better after the oil change. IF the viscosity isn't to low!....

Thoughts?

I've been pleased with the results I've had since changing to the 0-30 Mobil-1 oil. I was routinely getting over 60 mpg for a few tanks during the summer.

In addition to the synthetic motor oil, I also changed to a synthetic transaxle fluid - Redline ultralight synchromesh gear oil. Between the two, there was a big improvement. The new synthetic gear oil gave an improvement in coasting performance I could actually feel!

With the approach of the "winter half" of the year, I'm again contemplating a change to 0-20 motor oil. That same oil has been in there since March and I think it's time for a change - it's starting to look a little dirty. I had bought 5 quarts of the 0-20 when the new engine was installed, but let my mechanic talk me out of it and use the 0-30 instead. But I'm thinking the cooler half of the year might be a safer time to try the 0-20. I had intended to install a mechanical oil pressure gauge to moniter the oil pressure both before and after the change, but alas, I haven't done that yet either. ...

But the engine is holding up really well with the 0-30 Mobil-1. - runs really well, still nice & clean like new, so there aren't any leaks or anything like that. Also, I haven't had to add any since that initial fill, about 8,000 miles ago, so I take that as a great sign, too.