11-17-2021, 08:06 PM
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#101 (permalink)
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AKA - Jason
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cRiPpLe_rOoStEr
Was that one fitted with the 1.5L or the 2.0L engine?
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The one I drove last night was the 2.0L. Top Premier trim with all the options accept for a sunroof (which I don't want) and it turns out AWD (which I did want) The extra acceleration from the 2.0L (250 hp) is quite noticeable over the 1.5L (170 hp) and the MPG hit is reportedly pretty small. The 2.0L will also run on 87 octane although 91 octane is recommended for maximum performance.
I've mostly driven the 1.5L as rentals in a LT trim level (both FWD and AWD versions)
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11-17-2021, 08:22 PM
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#102 (permalink)
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It's all about Diesel
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IIRC only the 2.0L has that 9-speed transmission, while the 1.5L has the 6-speed, so this might explain why the hit on MPG from the bigger engine is not so hard.
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11-17-2021, 08:39 PM
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#103 (permalink)
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AKA - Jason
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cRiPpLe_rOoStEr
IIRC only the 2.0L has that 9-speed transmission, while the 1.5L has the 6-speed, so this might explain why the hit on MPG from the bigger engine is not so hard.
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Correct. I'm sure that has a lot to do with it along with the variable valve timing and twin-scroll turbo. You are only getting that extra power when you ask for it.
Car and Driver found the 2.0L got better fuel economy than the 1.5L on their highway fuel economy loop (28 mpg for the 1.5 / 30 mpg for the 2.0) Their test is 200 mile at 75 mph on flat ground.
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11-18-2021, 12:36 PM
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#104 (permalink)
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Human Environmentalist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSH
Shopping update.
I almost convinced myself to buy a Equinox. I had one again for two weeks for a business trip and got 33 mpg in mostly suburban driving. I've spent at least a month in one as a rental - I like the car and it is a practical replacement for the VW. I got so far as test driving one last night that I would have likely bought except after the test drive I noticed it was FWD not AWD as I thought. $31,000 - way more than I was planning but it was a top trim car and why not - we can afford it.
Then I got home and thought about it and said to myself - If you willing to spend $30K why not just get the car you wanted when you turned the Spark EV in but were too cheap to buy - a Chevy Bolt.
A local dealer that specializes in EVs has 8 on the lot ranging from 2017 to 2021. They are closed today but I'll swing buy tomorrow and very likely drive one home. I missed the bottom of the market on a Bolt but I really don't expect them to drop in price now that GM is replacing every battery pack with a new one, with a new 8 year warranty, and 8% more range.
Car shopping as become more pressing as the Astro van is out of commission. I have a new driveshaft on order but no delivery date yet. I'm still working from home due to a COVID quarantine but that will end tomorrow. (I picked up COVID on the above business trip to an assembly plant that takes no COVID precautions and spend 10 days quarantined in a hotel)
From Bolt Prices from Car Guru:
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I was getting fairly serious about buying one last January, but got greedy thinking price should have plummeted more due to the recall. My assumption was lifting the stop-sale would flood the market and they would go for much cheaper... wish I knew then what I know now. Prices went up 30% and haven't come down much since the peak. Back in December a 2017 could be had for ~14k, which made it $11.5k for my parents. I had in my mind $10k as the threshold which means a sales price of $12.5k.
Of course prices will come down as supply chain issues are worked out and newer EVs come to market, but who knows when that will happen. All I know is I'm never paying more than $14k for a Bolt, and that's because my expectation with technology is that it becomes more affordable over time.
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11-18-2021, 10:38 PM
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#105 (permalink)
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It's all about Diesel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSH
I'm sure that has a lot to do with it along with the variable valve timing and twin-scroll turbo.
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Not sure about the twin-scroll turbo, but AFAIK the 1.5 also has VVT.
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11-24-2021, 03:45 PM
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#106 (permalink)
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AKA - Jason
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Update.
I bought a 2017 Bolt Premier last Thursday. Every option, 32,000 miles, $24,020 OTD. Original MSRP was $43,495.
I'm not thrilled with the price (that is the most I have ever spent on a car) but I really like the Bolt. For now the plan is to keep the VW Sportwagen but we will see if that lasts long term. My wife drove the Bolt to work today and I suspect she will try to steal it.
So far I've driven it about 250 miles with an average of 3.5 miles / kWh which is about right for this time of year and temperature. The estimated range is quickly rising from the 158 miles when I picked it up. (The average efficiency was 1.4 miles / kWh when I picked it up)
I also picked up a Level 2 charger that I need to install this weekend.
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The Following User Says Thank You to JSH For This Useful Post:
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11-24-2021, 03:59 PM
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#107 (permalink)
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Human Environmentalist
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Has it had the battery replaced yet? If not, when would you want to do that?
Personally, I'd delay as long as possible to get the most use I could from the original battery, and further extend out the new warranty that comes with pack replacement.
I always recommend tire plug kits in every vehicle, but especially the Bolt since there's no spare.
There are Torque PIDs available if you're into seeing all that info.
Do you think you'll be 1-foot driving, or conventional? How about padal regen?
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11-24-2021, 04:50 PM
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#108 (permalink)
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AKA - Jason
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It has the original battery. GM is starting the battery recall with the 2019 model year. (There have been 19 battery fires globally and 12 were 2019 Bolts and 5 were 2017)
I'll drive on the original battery for as long as possible. My understanding is the 8 year / 100K mile warranty on the replacement battery starts from the date of replacement. GM will notify owners when they are eligible for the replacement.
I do have to look into tire kits for the Bolt. It doesn't have a spare and doesn't even have the air compressor / fix a flat that came with the Spark EV. The dealer did say you can get a spare kit for them and there is are foam cutouts in the rear hatch to hold the parts. For now it is covered by free On-Star towing but I need a long term solution.
I'll be looking into the PIDs for Torque but haven't yet. (I spend Friday - Monday in the plant for an equipment install)
I tried one-pedal driving a bit and found it odd. I don't see the point.
The paddle regen is strong but you can't modulate it - it is on or off. I'll have to experiment a bit and see if there is any real difference between using the paddle or brake pedal.
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11-24-2021, 05:02 PM
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#109 (permalink)
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Human Environmentalist
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There is a goop and inflator kit made for that cutout, but it's way overpriced if you purchase the OEM one. That, and I don't like goop because it's less effective generally, and certain to mess up the TPMS sensors.
Cheapo plug kit, pliers/multitool, and inflator always did me good.
I wonder how long one is eligible for the battery replacement campaign? If I bought a car 5 years from now and discovered the recall had not been performed, would it still be eligible? There must be a statute of limitations on these things...
My understanding is max regen is achieved with 1-pedal mode and use of the regen paddle. Most people end up preferring 1-pedal operation, though I found it awkward in the 1-hr test drive I used it. My brain is too programed to coast at the first sign of traffic slowing down, which in 1-pedal mode means a pretty hard stop. Enough practice and I'd reprogram. Same with getting the paddle regen timing down.
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11-24-2021, 05:37 PM
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#110 (permalink)
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AKA - Jason
Join Date: May 2009
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I already have a tire repair kit and compressor that I move from vehicle to vehicle. (I got the tire plug kit for my motorcycle after getting a flat on a rental and paying for a $300 tow)
I'm planning to get a bottle jack for the Astro because with the lift and bigger tires the stock scissor jack isn't tall enough. (I have some blocks to space it up but that isn't the safest solution). I always replace the cheapo lug wrench in every car I own with a cheap 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and socket from harbor freight.
The question is if I want to carry a spare or just rely on the tire kit and air compressor. A full size spare fits under the rear hatch - GM was just too cheap to include the parts. If I could guarantee I would only get a flat in the summer the kit might be OK but I don't fancy trying to find and plug a tire leak on Mt. Hood in blowing snow.
EDIT: You have likely seen that picture already since you participated in the Bolt Forum thread it is from
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