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Old 04-25-2011, 07:14 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedi_sol View Post

Keep us updated if any exhaust fumes enter into the cabin, or anything related to covering the entire exhaust pipe.
No fumes detected.

I covered the exhaust back only to the rear wheel and fuel tank area, where it bends to the right. You can just see the uncovered exhaust pipe in the first pic in post #18 above.

At first I had it covered from there back also, but removed covering due to (1) vibration where it hit the pipe and (2) a theory I had that a hot exhaust pipe reduces exhaust "scavenging" due to the gasses won't cool and contract as they go back. So now the exhaust is uncovered beginning just before the rear wheels, and going back from there.

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Old 06-04-2011, 09:35 PM   #22 (permalink)
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looks good. are you able to do suspension inspection and servicing through the wheel wells without much difficulty? greasing, etc. or is it simple enough to remove a panel where needed to gain access?
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Old 06-05-2011, 08:16 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I'm not much of a mechanic. I made a cut for oil + filter changes, you probably saw that mentioned a few posts back.

As for other work like strut changes, CV joints etc., I'm not sure if a panel might need to be removed. Removal should be pretty easy, all held on with machine screws. Rivets used to join panels together but only 1 or 2 rivets holding stuff to the car itself. If major removal needed for servicing, I think reinstallation might be a bit of a pain. Working under there is cramped, etc. and I find it inconvenient!
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Old 06-08-2011, 09:35 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Have you calculated an average mpg gain? Any differences in driving feel/vibration/noise?
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Old 06-08-2011, 09:41 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Belly Pan

I read these posts from time to time, I'm into land speed racing and we have a common thread with the aerodynamics for sure. We have a belly pan in our plans as well. Less drag = more speed, we are on a tight budget, some aerodynamic advantages are cheaper than brute force horsepower.
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Old 06-08-2011, 10:27 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Mice job on the belly pan! If you ever find too much crinkling noise or movement of your sheet metal a good fix is to dimple it with a hammer all over. It doesn't affect wind flow much and provides a lot of support with no weight gain, same as on old airplanes.

For any of you do-it-yourself fabricators, you can even dimple the sheet metal before bending it to the belly and it will retain it's bent shape much better. I used this technique to replace the whole floor of a car with trashed duct work.
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Old 06-08-2011, 11:08 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Here is an article that lists a variety of components to drag.
Car Aerodynamics 101

Honda have made detail changes to the underbody of the 2012 Civic and changed the side view mirrors all with the purpose of reducing aero drag. It would have been interesting if they had been able to reduce the ride height at cruising speeds.

Reducing the ride height of a car is a comparatively straight forward mod, but the cost of a spring set is not inconsequential.
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Old 06-08-2011, 11:15 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Belly Pan

I bought a cheap bead roller at Harbor Freight, it makes Aluminum sheet metal much more ridged.
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Old 06-09-2011, 07:05 AM   #29 (permalink)
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I used 24 inch wide aluminum flashing, but only near the exhaust. It is so flexible that no effort is needed to bend it. In fact, in a few places, I used 1/8" and 1/16" thick by 1" wide aluminum bar stock as framing to keep it and the coroplast in place. In most places the coroplast didn't need support.
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Old 06-11-2011, 11:33 AM   #30 (permalink)
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awesome bellypan build. I'm planning on trying one on my accord after i get a few minor repairs done (radiator leaking now, fuel tank started leaking if filled above half, way out of alignment).

I'll be watching the rest of the build. keep it up man. I'm also looking forward to hearing improvement results.

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