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Old 02-01-2013, 07:28 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basjoos View Post
Another technique for removing water from flooded electronics is to flush it with plenty of isopropanol followed by several hours of a slow flow of dry nitrogen gas through the case. Any water on the boards is absorbed into the isopropanol and is flushed out with it, then the nitrogen gas evaporates any isopropanol left on the boards.
I've used isopropanol to clean electronics a few times, but never messed with nitrogen to evaporate it.

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Old 02-02-2013, 02:53 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I take everything apart and give it a nice scrub with soap and water to get off any residues, wash it with water, bathe it in isopropanol alcohol, and then let it dry. I was able to resurrect an ipod that got filled with soda this way.
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Old 02-02-2013, 09:20 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Any water in components has dried out already. Depending on the water itself the corrosion can vary greatly. Any water but pure water is conductive to a degree. It's not really a matter of drying it out, the car has already sat for some months before it gets auctioned. The issue now is the corrosion left by the water as it evaporated over a period of time.

Definitely disassemble it until you can determine the water level without question. Every connection in the wiring harness that was submerged must be cleaned thoroughly. Every component that was submerged needs to be inspected carefully if it was outside the passengers compartment. If it was submerged inside the passengers compartment then that is you worst case scenario, depending on how high the water got inside the car.

Hopefully it did not get inside the car. If it did then just a couple of inches in the floors, which might still be wet, but a lot of the salvage companies have them cleaned and dehumidified before they sell the vehicle.

The origin of the loss is also important. The car could have been hauled from New Jersey or it could have been flooded in the Raleigh area, possibly at a dealership. Knowing the situation where the loss occured could help with the repair. Was it sitting or being operated?

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Old 02-02-2013, 09:27 AM   #24 (permalink)
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A VIN and title search revealed that the car had 10 miles on it, and it was dealer owned. Nearly positive that it was just sitting brand-new in a dealers lot.

I wouldn't imagine the car being shipped. The auction house that sold it has lots all over the country, including a dozen closer to New Jersey.

I believe that the car was flooded while sitting at a dealership.

Still lots of information unknown until I actually get it.
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Old 02-02-2013, 09:19 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Awesome find.

Interesting project.

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Old 02-02-2013, 10:45 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Mechanic View Post
Any water in components has dried out already. Depending on the water itself the corrosion can vary greatly. Any water but pure water is conductive to a degree. It's not really a matter of drying it out, the car has already sat for some months before it gets auctioned. The issue now is the corrosion left by the water as it evaporated over a period of time.

Definitely disassemble it until you can determine the water level without question. Every connection in the wiring harness that was submerged must be cleaned thoroughly. Every component that was submerged needs to be inspected carefully if it was outside the passengers compartment. If it was submerged inside the passengers compartment then that is you worst case scenario, depending on how high the water got inside the car.

Hopefully it did not get inside the car. If it did then just a couple of inches in the floors, which might still be wet, but a lot of the salvage companies have them cleaned and dehumidified before they sell the vehicle.

The origin of the loss is also important. The car could have been hauled from New Jersey or it could have been flooded in the Raleigh area, possibly at a dealership. Knowing the situation where the loss occured could help with the repair. Was it sitting or being operated?

regards
Mech
Drying it out isn't the point, the point of my treatment is to wash out any conductive stuff and non conductive stuff, ex the iPod I gave this treatment to had sat wet inside for a month, a good scrubbing managed to clean the connections (it wouldn't turn on before) and got it to turn on, the click wheel is super sensitive now and it looks like new.
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Old 02-03-2013, 01:30 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Mind if I ask what place, site whatever oversaw the auction?

Too bad there weren't other auctions now like that A lot of the copart auction associate sites are run a like a scam with a $500 deposite before you can bid and 30-100% fees on top of the sale price depending on who/where/what/how much it sells for.

I closely watched a leaf (not flood) and a volt (also not flood) but chickened out when I started looking at the fees.

I would love to perform heart surgury on a leaf or volt drivetrain if it was REALLY cheap. A flood car in my mind is even better, but I haven't seen one for sale, only conclusions.

Ah well, I will keep up the search, I haven't ever noticed MIEV at any of the copart auctions,
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Old 02-03-2013, 01:47 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Nice find, hope it still runs. Me jealous (if it works )
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Old 02-03-2013, 03:30 PM   #29 (permalink)
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The auction was directly through Copart.
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Old 02-05-2013, 02:12 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmay635703 View Post
I would love to perform heart surgury on a leaf or volt drivetrain if it was REALLY cheap.


If I'd ever get a Nissan Leaf I'd try to convert it to RWD. With a Volt I'd consider to replace its 1.4L gasser for some 3cyl Diesel. Actually I've already considered to make a replica of the Volt with an all-fiberglass body over a space-frame, but would get a conventional non-hybrid Diesel driveline just for trolling the tree-huggers

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ben nelson, electric car, hurricane, miev, mitsubishi, super storm sandy, water damage

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