Big project-F250 pulling 20x8.5 enclosed trailer

[5.0 Junkie]

I left the lower grille open. The intercooler is actually on the bottom side of the radiator. I don't have gauges yet, but will have them soon. In the winter, it is hard to get the things up to temp, so I figured now was time to keep some air out of it.

I'm looking at a way to put a front air dam on it and try to make the front diff aero or blocked off somehow.

It is a work in progress, but the stuff I have done so far should help. Plans are to make the top of the trailer more of a curved shape like the photoshopped picture at the beginning of the thread.

Originally Posted by QuickLTD

That looks great. Love the clear grille blocks and everything you intend to accomplish! I am not an expert on TD engines but I would think since you are towing a fairly heavy trailer and you closed off a substantial portion of air to the intercooler that you might want to monitor your charge air temperature. I think you guys do that with the end result out the back end with a an EGT gauge right? If you don't have an SGII get one or add an intake air temp gauge into one of your intake tubes. After the intercooler of course. If temperature becomes an issue you could make a simple scoop under the bumper since those trucks are "dirty" to the air anyway underneath it would not negatively affect your progress. Like I said I'm no pro just a friendly neighbor looking out for a guy. Those Powerstrokes are not cheap I would hate to see you pop it.

[Christ]

You'll want to monitor your EGT's more than anything... I think at cruise it should be around 600degF for maximum efficiency, I think I read that somewhere. (Maybe it was my Adele's manual...)

Also, your intake charge should be cold for highest efficiency, so if you can run the intake piping of the turbo to a cooler place, it may be of benefit to you.

Basically, with a diesel engine, you want to keep the block warm, but keep the intake and exhaust cool. The idea is that the colder intake charge will put more air around the same amount of fuel, increasing the chance that it will all burn, and the combustion's heat should be dissipated for the most part due to thermal expansion before it's put out the exhaust. IF this is not the case, you're wasting efficiency.

If you can figure out how, you can adjust your injection timing for better efficiency in the ranges you'll normally be operating in. The tighter you can keep your RPM range, the better, because you can dial in your engine for the way you're going to drive. HyperTech can help you with this.

[bondvagabond]

How about a rectangle of spandex, wrapped around the gap between the truck and the trailer. you could probably find some 6ft wide, so one sewn seam (very easy for someone who knows how) and you could have 12 ft. that should do it. Then get some strong magnets and rubber cement them to the fabric at the front and rear edges. You could get fabric that matched your truck, or black to look like a city flexy bus, or pink petunias if you wanted. You'd need a topper for this to work though, and maybe one of those deflectors on top so the can be edge on to the wind and not get loaded as bad. If it pops off when turning, just make it longer, so the stretch can be distributed over move fabric.

[5.0 Junkie]

I'm thinking about the front edges of the trailer being sharp. If I took a 6" pvc pipe and cut about 90deg out of it and attached to each leading edge, would that help? It would actually stick out a bit from the edge, but I'm thinking it would actually help air around the corners. Any input?

I'm still working on an idea for the rear that helps with aero, but isn't too difficult to work around.

[thatguitarguy]

Some people have had good luck with using vortex generators.

Utility Trailers & Toy Haulers: Airtab

[5.0 Junkie]

I not 100% sold on those yet. Probably not going to hurt anything. I'm actually going a step further than that.

Here is what I was thinking. Actually installing a 6" pvc pipe where the red lines outline. It would stick out from the front of the trailer some, but I think the air coming out the truck hitting it will smooth out and they top is just a 90deg edge. Any transition should help.

[MetroMPG]

The round PVC would help, but it shouldn't stick out past the top/side planes (that would be bad, actually).

Instead, do half cuts, and attach them so the edge of the pipe aligns with the edge/top of the trailer.

[5.0 Junkie]

This is what I was thinking. Pic on the right is a top down view. I was thinking of cutting the pipe in half or around that and affixing it as shown in the pics.

[Christ]

Originally Posted by 5.0 Junkie

This is what I was thinking. Pic on the right is a top down view. I was thinking of cutting the pipe in half or around that and affixing it as shown in the pics.

Edge fairing without adding frontal area. Good job!

[MetroMPG]

That'll work. The center rib pipe isn't needed though (it won't help or hurt). Just the top & sides.

Phil (Aerohead) suggested doing the bottom edge as well.