07-28-2014, 02:04 AM
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#81 (permalink)
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Furry Furfag
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Apple Valley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbolton1990
Ha,ya I need to make a front air dam as well..
hmm
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It will probably only take around 30 mins, and the gains will be well worth it with how much I run at 60-65mph.
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07-28-2014, 02:06 AM
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#82 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: perry fl
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The biggest problem for me is finding the right material cheap..
I found the right stuff but they wanted $40 shipped for a roll of it!
Too rich for my blood..
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07-28-2014, 02:21 AM
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#83 (permalink)
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Furry Furfag
Join Date: Nov 2013
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Go to Walmart, I got a 20ft roll for $6 and some change.
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07-28-2014, 05:19 AM
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#84 (permalink)
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Furry Furfag
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Apple Valley
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Hey guys, this is the CX tranny with the tall gears right? If so I might go buy this tomorrow or next weekend. That's a good deal.
http://inlandempire.en.craigslist.or...512853513.html
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Last edited by Baltothewolf; 07-28-2014 at 05:38 AM..
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07-29-2014, 03:05 AM
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#85 (permalink)
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Furry Furfag
Join Date: Nov 2013
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Got done with the air-dam today! I took it for a test drive on my normal test route and didn't really notice an increase in coasting distance or mpg, but I think it might be folding at speed. I'll have to brace the back of it with something, probably L brackets. I do like the way it looks though.
Oh also, I forgot to mention, I cannot get L/B to engage whatsoever anymore. I'm really worried and I can't find out what the problem is. I have a very specific route I use for testing mods, and before I could get L/B to engage for about 1/2-3/4 of the route, now like I said, no L/B. No TC's or CEL on UG (dash is also not indicating anything).
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Last edited by Baltothewolf; 07-29-2014 at 03:12 AM..
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07-29-2014, 08:16 AM
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#86 (permalink)
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Cyborg ECU
Join Date: Mar 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baltothewolf
Got done with the air-dam today! I took it for a test drive on my normal test route and didn't really notice an increase in coasting distance or mpg, but I think it might be folding at speed. I'll have to brace the back of it with something, probably L brackets. I do like the way it looks though.
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If you adjust the shape of the airdam so that it has more of a curve than I think you doon now, given the rippling the flash photo reveals... if you make it more rounded at the front and extend to the edge of the tires (that's where mine now are) you might get better results in terms of FE and certainly "at speed" warping. The thick plastic parts of the edging will give structural support better when the curve is greater.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Baltothewolf
Oh also, I forgot to mention, I cannot get L/B to engage whatsoever anymore. I'm really worried and I can't find out what the problem is. I have a very specific route I use for testing mods, and before I could get L/B to engage for about 1/2-3/4 of the route, now like I said, no L/B. No TC's or CEL on UG (dash is also not indicating anything).
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I forget, do you have the 1996-1998 Civic Honda FSM? That thing is increadibly useful. 1500 pages. Free online.
EDIT: are you sure you're not going into it? if you have the Ultragauge monitor the primary O2 sensor... "bank 1" I think the UG calls it... when in LB the sensor reading should go to zero.
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See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.
Last edited by California98Civic; 07-29-2014 at 09:28 AM..
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07-29-2014, 11:05 AM
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#87 (permalink)
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Furry Furfag
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Apple Valley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by California98Civic
If you adjust the shape of the airdam so that it has more of a curve than I think you doon now, given the rippling the flash photo reveals... if you make it more rounded at the front and extend to the edge of the tires (that's where mine now are) you might get better results in terms of FE and certainly "at speed" warping. The thick plastic parts of the edging will give structural support better when the curve is greater.
I forget, do you have the 1996-1998 Civic Honda FSM? That thing is increadibly useful. 1500 pages. Free online.
EDIT: are you sure you're not going into it? if you have the Ultragauge monitor the primary O2 sensor... "bank 1" I think the UG calls it... when in LB the sensor reading should go to zero.
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Yea I planned on changing the curve of it tonight, it seems to blunt in the front.
FSM? I guess not lol.
I'm 100% sure, my butt sensor is quite good at feeling it, and it's o2 sensor bank 2 that drops to zero.
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07-29-2014, 07:31 PM
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#88 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Nov 2010
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Chief - '06 Pontiac Grand Prix 90 day: 26.7 mpg (US) SF1 - '12 Ford Fiesta S 90 day: 30.95 mpg (US)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baltothewolf
FSM?
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Factory Service Manual
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07-30-2014, 12:57 AM
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#89 (permalink)
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Furry Furfag
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Apple Valley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nemo
Factory Service Manual
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Ohhhh, yea I gotta get one...
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07-30-2014, 04:38 AM
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#90 (permalink)
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Furry Furfag
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Does anyone know what else could be causing my L/B problem? It's extremely hesitant now to go into L/B , it's not giving me the herky jerky but I can feel it being extremely hesitant then it just decides to not go into L/B. Here is an example of what UG shows, 0.000 is lean burn, 0.015 is when I feel it leaning out, 0.115 is loss of power but not quite leaned out and 0.640-0.955 is normal range.
0.955
0.640
0.850
0.085
0.015
0.955.
It will hold the 0.015 just long enough for it to register on UG, then hop right back up. I'm at a complete loss as it was working just fine prior to me getting TC P0401. Ever since then, even though I cleaned the EGR system and the TC and check engine light went away.
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