Boat tail project based on a single wheel trailer...

[BamZipPow]

Looks like there are other rotational shock absorbers like lever shock absorbers, rotary dampers, or rotary vane shock absorbers. Classic cars had these types of shock absorbers before the industry went with the telescopic shock absorber.

Might have to see if I can rob an old car of one of these types of shock absorbers...

[freebeard]

I didn't catch where you need the shock absorber—whether the wheel or the hitch.

That said, if you haven't rebuilt the hitch yet, consider this:

from Figue Trailer Axle Sizes R and P Carriages Seneca, Il

Specifically the cut-away center in the middle drawing. Nothing more than a square tube, a square bar, and four rubber bungee cords. Rubber does both springing and shock absorbing in a single material.

[BamZipPow]

Originally Posted by freebeard

I didn't catch where you need the shock absorber—whether the wheel or the hitch.

That said, if you haven't rebuilt the hitch yet, consider this:

from Figue Trailer Axle Sizes R and P Carriages Seneca, Il

Specifically the cut-away center in the middle drawing. Nothing more than a square tube, a square bar, and four rubber bungee cords. Rubber does both springing and shock absorbing in a single material.

I'd like to have the dampening at the pivot points so as the trailer pitched up and down...the shock absorber would dampen the speed of the pitch. I envision that the pivot pin would be embedded into the shock so I could slide the shock absorber/pivot pin into the hitch ears and secure the trailer into the hitch at the same time. The lever arm would then attach to the trailer so the shock absorber could operate.

I did look at the rubber loaded square tubing torsion bar setup that some trailers have. I didn't see where it could be adjusted based on load without taking the tube apart and loading in different types of rubber.

[freebeard]

I'd thought about adjustability, or lack of, but I suggested it anyway.

I'm not sure how to describe the situation mathematically, but it would involve a mass (the variable load) and a lever arm (the wheelbase). If the frequency is more affected by the wheelbase, might adjustability not matter? The sprung wheel complicates it.

Possibly a rubber torsion mount at the bumper, both springing and damping and progressively limiting the range of motion at the hitch would force more effort from the wheel's spring. IOW, loose at the hitch and tight at the wheel vs tight at the hitch and loose at the wheel.

[BamZipPow]

Got the new hitch back...the crossbar has been replaced with a 2.5" square tube!

Unfortunately, the measurements were off so I had to use a big sledgehammer to "adjust" one of the ears. Hooked up the trailer and took the rig out fer a quick run. Pinned the trailer in the middle of the five available adjustment holes. Seemed to work just fine with just a little bit of bucking. Nothing else was in the trailer so I'll have to try it again with about 100lbs strapped down above the swivel point. Didn't install any of the gap covers fer this run.

Been thinking about adding some Foamular to the doors to bring them out to meet the gap covers. I've been thinking about cutting back the doors since I have the clear gap covers...maybe about 5" or so? We'll see.

I'm thinking some more about using a single shock absorber (gas filled) and adapting it between the trailer and the hitch. It might be easier to hook up than a torsion/rotational shock absorber. It should be cheaper, too!

[freebeard]

http://www.kustom1warehouse.net/New_replacement_steering_dampers_for_VW_Volkswagen _p/steeringdamper.htm

How about US$22.00?

[BamZipPow]

I'm replacing my KYB Gas-A-Just gas shocks with new KYB Gas-A-Just gas shocks on my T-100 so I'm gonna reuse the old ones and see how well they work. They're still strong and shouldn't have any issues. The fun will be how to attach them to the hitch and trailer.

[freebeard]

Would you need more than one? It seems like overkill. The damper is 1/4 the size of a road shock. They disallow hot-linking, but look at their picture— some have a 90° hook at one end. I'll find a linkable picture.

[BamZipPow]

Keep in mind that the shock I'll be using is something I'll already have on hand and that this will be a test to see if it will work or not. As I'm not a mechanical engineer by any means, I'm willing to take a shot and see what I learn from the process. I haven't even measured to see if the shock will be too long or just the right length as I just got my hitch back this afternoon. I don't think the shock will be too short.

I'll only be using one shock and it will be mounted in the same line as the nose of the hitch so any forces will be linear to the nose instead of on the ears of the hitch.

[BamZipPow]

Updated hitch adapter with a 2.5" crossbar...


Transition gap cover between the aero cap and the upper gap cover...