09-30-2013, 12:30 AM
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#21 (permalink)
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Not Doug
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I think that your hitch vise needs a hitch, so that you can hitch your hitch while you...
Too much Internet for me. Goodnight.
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09-30-2013, 04:07 PM
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#22 (permalink)
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T-100 Road Warrior
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyatt
Where did you get that cargo carrier? Just the carrier, not the trailer. Who is the manufacturer? How big is it (cubic feet)? Dimensions would be great, if you wouldn't mind. It looks like something that a lot of ecomodders should be pulling around! Thank you.
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The carrier came with the single wheel trailer. It was manufactured by Tri-Glass in Daleville, Alabama. Seems they closed back in 2007.
Tri-Glas Manufacturing Plant Closing
The cargo body/carrier is 38" wide (widest point), 61" long, and 19" deep. The lid adds another 9" of clearance at the upper most point. It has a lockable handle and a prop bar to keep the lid open. It is bolted to the frame with eight 1.5" bolts.
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09-30-2013, 04:25 PM
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#23 (permalink)
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EcoModder
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Thank you for the reply.
That's too bad about Tri-Glass. 38" wide would fit onto one of the narrow, inexpensive trailers from Harbor Freight, which we have. We currently have a rooftop cargo carrier on it, and have used it for a couple years that way. The Tri-Glass looks like it has significantly more cargo volume, so for an expanding family, that would be welcome . I'll have to keep my eyes open. Since I am from Alabama, there may be a few around (I have never seen one).
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09-30-2013, 07:18 PM
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#24 (permalink)
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T-100 Road Warrior
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Just dropped off the hitch adapter to a local fab shop. It will cost about $80 fer them to replace the tongue. By the time I git this boat tail trailer done...it will take me a few years to amoritze it.
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10-01-2013, 10:07 PM
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#25 (permalink)
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T-100 Road Warrior
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Gitting the pivot lock worked out. Just need to cut the PVC pipe to length and add in a bottom bar...maybe out of wood fer now. I'll have to see if how it will pan out or if I need to change out the wood piece to something else later on down the line.
I'll probably be able to hang a mud flap off of that frame now. I'm tempted to hang the Yosemite Sam "Back Off" one back there.
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10-02-2013, 12:22 PM
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#26 (permalink)
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T-100 Road Warrior
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Fabbed up...
Unlocked...
Locked...
The 1"x2" wood bars (same ones I use to keep the aero cap hatch up when towing a bigger profile trailer) are inserted in to keep the swivel wheel from swiveling. This will allow me to easily "wheelbarrow" the trailer from the front and not have to worry about the wheel swiveling and tipping the trailer over when I'm manually moving the trailer around. I'll still put the rear landing gear down just in case...
I'm thinking about painting the wooden bars a nice florescent orange so I won't fergit to pull them before heading out on the trip. Maybe some "Remove Before Flight" flags attached to the end might be a good reminder.
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10-02-2013, 02:10 PM
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#27 (permalink)
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T-100 Road Warrior
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10-03-2013, 12:42 AM
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#28 (permalink)
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Not Doug
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Looks great!
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10-03-2013, 12:46 AM
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#29 (permalink)
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T-100 Road Warrior
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10-03-2013, 06:23 PM
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#30 (permalink)
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T-100 Road Warrior
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Got everything back together again. Had to level out the trailer as it was too high on the right. I just dropped the right side down one inch on the right side of the hitch adapter. I moved the cargo box up towards the front about 6 inches.
Made a quick test around the neighborhood and the trailer is rock solid now. No more rocking! Pumped about half a tube of bearing grease into the hub! The stuff that came out looked rather...yuck.
It lives...again!
Rear shot...
Making a trip down to Houston with the trailer attached to drop off the family at the airport and then I'm on my own fer the next few days. Guess what I'll be playing with?
I'm not sure I'll be keeping the cargo box on the trailer in my future versions...I guess it will depend on how much effort I want to put into this and what the returns turn out to be.
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