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Old 02-01-2018, 05:40 PM   #1021 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angel And The Wolf View Post
With only one wheel on the trailer, I only WANT two degrees of movement. Up/Down, and Left/Right. That's why I'm using a U-Joint.

I guess I'll need a VIN to register the trailer. I can incorporate the VIN plate from a cheap ironton utility trailer, and re-structure it's frame rails to build upon. The 4.8 x 12 inch tires hold up 1082 lbs, and since my trailer is only for aerodynamics, it will weigh considerable less than that. I can use the leaf springs from the trailer kit, and the lights and wiring harness.
I don't think a VIN will be required fer a home built trailer. Mine doesn't have a VIN and DMV was just fine about registering it fer tags.

Any ideas on how you will be mounting the shroud/gap cover?

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Old 02-02-2018, 03:03 AM   #1022 (permalink)
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With only one wheel on the trailer, I only WANT two degrees of movement. Up/Down, and Left/Right. That's why I'm using a U-Joint.
No need to SHOUT, I'm saying that is what you'll get. Maybe this will help, since I used the word 'squircular':
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Old 02-02-2018, 11:29 AM   #1023 (permalink)
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I t a l i c s are your friend.

Do you get that the rightward form is sufficient for two degrees of freadom?
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Old 02-02-2018, 11:59 AM   #1024 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angel And The Wolf View Post
I just had a thought, If I use a utility trailer for the frame, I will have two 4.8 inch wide tires on an axle that I can shorten to just long enough to clamp one of the leaf spring packs to, resulting in an assembly no wider than the license plate tail end.
An Update:
This looks interesting. Let's see a version 1 proof of concept please. Someone build this and give it its own thread.
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The power needed to push an object through a fluid increases as the cube of the velocity. Mechanical friction increases as the square, so increasing speed requires progressively more power.

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Old 02-03-2018, 03:08 AM   #1025 (permalink)
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Quote:
Quote:
Do you get that the rightward form is sufficient for two degrees of freadom?
I'm not sure what you are trying to tell me.
I give up.
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Old 02-03-2018, 12:47 PM   #1026 (permalink)
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U-joint

Quote:
Originally Posted by Angel And The Wolf View Post
I'm not sure what you are trying to tell me. I'll be using an old Pickup truck driveshaft and splined transmission piece as a pivot. both pieces fixed, not rotatable. the vertical axis of the U-Joint allows movement for corners, the horizontal axis of the U-Joint allows movement for speed bumps and intersection dips.

Yes, the trailer is essentially a rectangular pyramid, truncated at it's small end, and the prius rear is a curve sided rectangle. The transition will be achieved basically by the fixed gap filler piece, which is solidly mounted to the bar inserted in the receiver at the front end, and holding the yoke of the U-Joint spider at it's rear.
Either,from a member,or somewhere on the WEB,I saw a depiction of a U-Joint attachment for a motorcycle-towed trailer setup.I thought it was a very elegant engineering solution.
I would encourage you to set the double-rear wheels as close together as possible,as on uneven road surfaces it's possible for one wheel to experience an asymmetrical impact,imparting a torsional moment on the u-joint,something which would not occur with a single wheel.
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Old 02-03-2018, 02:26 PM   #1027 (permalink)
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I assume you would have (or would have) two wheels and two springs with the trailer.

An alternative would be to space the two springs closely together, and put the two wheels on a bogey.


http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...hin-13142.html

Your plan reminds me of Dave Cloud's Dolphin. It had closely spaced wheels, although not as close as you propose.

Notice the skegs. The overall shape concludes in a flat tail, but there are vertical elements acting as wheel spats.
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Old 02-03-2018, 06:59 PM   #1028 (permalink)
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Quote:
One leaf spring pack between the two wheels which are on a shortened axle, with just enough space between the tires to clear the spring.
I understand. The length/width ratio of the leaf spring will determine it's resistance to roll, since it's coupled rigidly to the tow vehicle.

Is the lip on the body detachable? I suspect it's stamped into the sheet metal. If so, you could continue the upstream contour and put vortex generators to 'help' the flow over the spoiler. Or whatever discontinuity. Vortex generators don't help overall flow, but can be used locally.

Plywood in car bodies is a Bad Idea. Unless you are vacuum-bagging veneers in a concrete female form. aerohead knows about this. And BamZipPow has gradually replaced all the wood he used in Dark Aero.

I suggest Polymetal or equivalent. Here are some tests I did with samples sheared, rolled and braked by hand (18" lever arm). Four pieces joined two different ways. The brakes needed pre-scoring because they ruptured.



It is stiff as 5/8" plywood and cost maybe 50% more. But it's pre-finished. Unlike plywood or fiberglass. That's important.
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Old 02-03-2018, 07:07 PM   #1029 (permalink)
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Old 02-03-2018, 10:38 PM   #1030 (permalink)
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Quote:
The leaf spring is located at the rear of the trailer, attached to the trailer axle between the two wheels. The roll is prevented by the non-rotating U-Joint hitch assembly.
The only "roll" would be the roll of the two wheels and axle under the roll-free trailer when one tire hit a bump that the other didn't. That might limit the bump felt by the trailer.
I wasn't thinking about bumps under the trailer wheel so much as the tow vehicle rolling in corners.

A single wheel between two springs would have less [unsprung] weight. Do you need the load capacity of two wheels?

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