California to start checking OBDII cars for tunes

[JSH]

Originally Posted by Hersbird

Your link above https://www.missoulacounty.us/govern...-installations
Shows the rule. Pellet only inside the stagnation zone, other EPA approved outside.

Yes, I read that and find it odd. I'm surprised that they care what type of stove as long as it passes EPA testing. Maybe back in 1994 when they passed the law only pellet stoves could meet the requirement. Or maybe it is because cord wood stove emissions are so dependent on how people fuel them. To be clean you have to burn hot, which requires constant monitoring. Not the best thing to keep a house warm through a night. People tend to like to cut off the airflow and do a slow / smoldering burn through the night.

We spent a weekend in a CCC cabin up on Mt. Hood last winter. It only had wood heat and feeding the stove was like feeding a baby - in needed to be fed every 2-3 hours. Even then we only got the cabin up to a max of 55 degrees.

Originally Posted by Piotrsko

I am under the impression that it took a couple of cycles to cause the computer to go into test mode, AFAIK, RESET in the parking lot causes a fail here for gassers.

Yes, resetting the check engine light in the parking lot will cause a fail for any OBDII test that checks for emission ready status. That is why I said I would be surprised if your area smog check they only look for a check engine light. If they plug into the OBDII there would be no reason not to due a normal check like on a gasser. (That is what Oregon does for my TDI) Do they even plug into the OBDII port for a diesel were you live?


Driving normal it can take days or even more than a week to get the ECM ready for OBD emission checks. However, there is a specific test drive cycle that can get it done in about 15 minutes. I got really good at that cycle when I was chasing evaporation emission faults in my van. For my Chevy Astro Van and other GM vehicles it is:

1. Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
2. Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.
3. Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
4. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
5. Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
6. Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
7. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
8. Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

[Piotrsko]

Originally Posted by freebeard

Type III were fuel injected from 1966. [en.wikipedia.org] so what carbs did it have Solex or Weber? My 1971 Notchback had dual 40mm Webers, but the ultimate was a single two-barrel sidedraft 44.

Original fuel injection was swapped out when the sensors became unobtainable. IIRC Type II heat sensors were available for substitution.

Had dual factory Solex with factory tin and interconnects, but unlike the early model aircleaners more like the late ghia high top stuff. If you didn't put the cleaners on exactly correct you couldnt close the lid. I dont recall the model but about a 34 choke.

In the late '80s you could still get the sensors I needed, but the one off items like the Map, high pressure fromt only fuel pump and it's harness were only available from wrecked. Remanned injectors were common, but unreliable. Still have a pair of downdraft Webber 44DCNF choked down to 36 and their manifolds and aircleaners. Car was probably converted in europe before importing because it was a very factory looking setup. It passed visual once at a place that did VW repairs.

They plug into OBD for diesel testing here because AFAIK, it is the only way to check readiness on a running OBD system. Like I said, all the diesel places won't turn off the engine. The same places do turn off gassers.

[some_other_dave]

There are a lot more D-Jetronic parts being made nowadays for people restoring late-60s through mid-70s cars. Manifold Pressure sensors can be rebuilt with kits from places like Tangerine Racing.

The D-Jet "bible" is available at http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders . The guy got ahold of electric schematics for the analog ECU and figured out what they really did. It's exceedingly impressive!

-soD

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by Piotrsko

My experiences with a carbed 74 euro VW squareback indicate you can't do such a swap without a big checkbook fund even if the vehicle does pass emmissions.

I wouldn't expect an engine swap to be cheap or hassle-free at all. An uncle of mine had a Suzuki Vitara with a Volkswagen Diesel swap, and even though it's not so hard to find adaptor plates to match the engine to other transmissions it's still quite troublesome. My uncle struggled to improve the cooling on that Vitara.