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Old 07-21-2012, 01:04 AM   #21 (permalink)
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For shifting back to drive while at speed, just give it some gas to match the rpms to whatever speed it should be turning when in gear, like a manual.

Metal powder from the gears is normal, shavings and excessive clutch material is not.

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Old 07-21-2012, 01:10 AM   #22 (permalink)
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How much does your transmission needs to be lubricated when you are in neutral?
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Old 07-21-2012, 10:45 AM   #23 (permalink)
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But I'm RPM obsessed. :-) They drop down SO much when I'm in neutral I have to be getting better mileage. Well, actually, the car's built-in "avg. mpg" sensor clearly shows my mpg increases when I'm in neutral. And then there is the whole issue of "gear resistance" where the car just doesn't roll as easily or as far when in gear as opposed to neutral. Oh the dilemma!

I do have a feeling that Brake Masters was exaggerating the metal in the transmission fluid thing. They showed it to me quickly but I don't recall major chunks of anything.

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Old 07-21-2012, 02:36 PM   #24 (permalink)
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A 2.5 liter 4 cylinder engine uses about .25 gallon of fuel idling. My 02 Insight (1 liter 3 cyl) used .11 GPH idling. Your Toyota probably uses between .15 and .20 GPH while coasting in neutral with the engine running as long as you do not have the AC on.

If you are coasting at 60 MPH and using .2 GPH then your mileage in that instant is 60/.2 or 300 MPG. That will bring your average back up very quickly.

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Old 07-21-2012, 02:53 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Talking MPG sensor

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Mechanic View Post
A 2.5 liter 4 cylinder engine uses about .25 gallon of fuel idling. My 02 Insight (1 liter 3 cyl) used .11 GPH idling. Your Toyota probably uses between .15 and .20 GPH while coasting in neutral with the engine running as long as you do not have the AC on.

If you are coasting at 60 MPH and using .2 GPH then your mileage in that instant is 60/.2 or 300 MPG. That will bring your average back up very quickly.

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I usually keep my sensor set at "avg. mpg" and not "mpg" but when I've peaked while coasting or driving super efficiently I've seen it read 99.9 but I think that's as high as it can handle. :-)

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Old 07-21-2012, 03:03 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Any advice on keeping a transmission alive that already has internal damage ?
I removed my metal bellypan that was flush with the transmission, as well as the grille block.
I notice my transmission seems to shift ok till it heats up after around 10 minutes of driving at freeway speeds.
Would a more heavy duty transmission cooler keep my transmission alive for a while ?
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Old 07-21-2012, 09:47 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksa8907 View Post
For shifting back to drive while at speed, just give it some gas to match the rpms to whatever speed it should be turning when in gear, like a manual.

Metal powder from the gears is normal, shavings and excessive clutch material is not.
I have to question this advise.
I have owned may different cars (automatics) and have NEVER rev'ed up when going back in gear.
The tourgue converter then has to compensate and that is BAD.
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Old 07-21-2012, 10:31 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I suppose it would depend on the transmission, but I know mine will jerk above 40mph if I don't rev the engine to about 1500rpm. Im not suggesting holding the pedal down, just give it a tap and shift to drive. Do whatever you want, this is what works for me.
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Old 07-22-2012, 02:22 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Minutes after buying my first car someone pulled in front of me, I hit my brakes, and they squealed, so I went to Brake Masters, that advertised $99.88 for four wheels, in most cases. They came back and said that the brakes would be that price, but that I needed to replace all of these other things, and the total would be around $450. While I waited they told countless other customers exactly the same thing, so I had a bad experience with that chain.

Do you do all of your business there?
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Old 07-23-2012, 09:16 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Those chains make their money on the upsells. It's not unethical, it's just using advertising well. They know that by the time your car is old enough that pads and rotors all around for $100 is something you're in the market for, they're not going to be able to touch it without half of the underbody disintegrating- your shiny new pads and rotors aren't going anywhere with that brake line pouring fluid on the floor. It's on the lift and you can either pay for the upsell or pay them to put it back together in nearly undriveable condition.

I've seen ads for cheap mufflers with lifetime warrantees. Nothing else is cheap ot warranteed for life, and everything else is going to need replacing with it. It's easy to give away a muffler or pad set at cost if it brings in someone who needs a lot of work done.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheepdog44 View Post
Transmission type Efficiency
Manual neutral engine off.100% @MPG <----- Fun Fact.
Manual 1:1 gear ratio .......98%
CVT belt ............................88%
Automatic .........................86%

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