04-11-2011, 11:29 AM
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#21 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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Location: Wisconsin
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I hope you don't mind if I keep requesting opinions occasionally.
Found a 98 civic dx (especially interesting because it's not price inflated and has been lowered), supposedly good condition, but of course 184k miles.
I don't need whatever I buy to last a long time, but I would like something that I don't have to worry about for a year or 2. What would you do? (Planning ask about maintenance history and such of course.)
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04-11-2011, 03:23 PM
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#22 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Well, I do like Civics, so I'd at least consider that one...
-soD
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04-11-2011, 05:36 PM
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#23 (permalink)
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Pishtaco
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I'd avoid anything with >150k miles.
__________________
Darrell
Boycotting Exxon since 1989, BP since 2010
Have you ever noticed that anybody driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone going faster than you is a maniac? George Carlin
Mean Green Toaster Machine
49.5 mpg avg over 53,000 miles. 176% of '08 EPA
Best flat drive 94.5 mpg for 10.1 mi
Longest tank 1033 km (642 mi) on 10.56 gal = 60.8 mpg
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04-14-2011, 11:37 AM
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#24 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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Found a cheap 94 vx that was hit in the back. Waiting a little to call about the miles and stuff, probably a million, but in the mean time:
Anyone have a guess on the odds that all this needs is an alignment and quarter panel (like he claims)?
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04-14-2011, 07:38 PM
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#25 (permalink)
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.........................
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That's not a minor repair...
Civics are unibody cars, so damage to the quarter like that is actually structural. That doesn't look like a simple cut-it-out-and-weld-in-a-new-panel since there appears to be buckling beyond where the impact damage is.
It can be done, but I'd pass on it and find another car.
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04-14-2011, 11:12 PM
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#26 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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Yeah, I figured it wasn't likely to be that simple. Thanks for the info. I will remember that.
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04-19-2011, 02:25 PM
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#27 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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Update/minor questions:
Found an HX that's old ('96, 170k) but clean body and according to the guy,
"Full top end rebuild at 145000 with new timing belt and water pump
Fully rebuilt 5spd. manual trans. at 147000 with new clutch and resurfaced flywheel"
He also has some light mods on it, but nothing that would mess with mileage except a cold air intake. So my question is, how much affect will the CAI have on power/efficiency?
I'm assuming that CAI = more 02 hitting the sensor thus more fuel injected and decrease in fuel economy. I'm curious if it means I'll be able to keep RPM lower though, and thus stay in lean burn at a slightly higher speed. Because if that's the case then I'm thinking I wouldn't want to mess with it.
Last edited by justjohn; 04-19-2011 at 03:56 PM..
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04-20-2011, 11:29 AM
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#28 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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I have since read a couple WAI threads and the CAI vs WAI thread. Looks like what is best depends somewhat on how picky your car is about hot air and what climate you live in.
I'm still interested to know if the CAI intake will let me keep the RPM lower, and if anyone has any wild guesses about whether or not that would make up for losses associated with lower throttle position.
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04-20-2011, 01:36 PM
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#29 (permalink)
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Pishtaco
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I've yet to see an ABA or scientifically controlled test proving any benefits (either power or fuel economy) from WAI or CAI. The most convincing testimonials come from long-term fuel logs showing possible mpg gains with WAI, but they're also linked to driver awareness and behavioral changes, and possibly caused by engine tune, ambient temperature, tire inflation, route changes, and myriad other factors.
It's impossible to see a CAI keeping rpms lower. Engines are coupled to tires by fixed gear ratios. If your engine spins 2200 rpm at 60 mph in top gear today, it's going to do it tomorrow, too. It's going to spin 2200 rpm at 60 mph climbing mountains in Alaska in the winter, or descending grades in Death Valley in the middle of August. GPH consumption and mpg will change, but rpms won't give you a clue to either.
__________________
Darrell
Boycotting Exxon since 1989, BP since 2010
Have you ever noticed that anybody driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone going faster than you is a maniac? George Carlin
Mean Green Toaster Machine
49.5 mpg avg over 53,000 miles. 176% of '08 EPA
Best flat drive 94.5 mpg for 10.1 mi
Longest tank 1033 km (642 mi) on 10.56 gal = 60.8 mpg
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04-20-2011, 04:47 PM
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#30 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SentraSE-R
It's impossible to see a CAI keeping rpms lower. Engines are coupled to tires by fixed gear ratios. If your engine spins 2200 rpm at 60 mph in top gear today, it's going to do it tomorrow, too. It's going to spin 2200 rpm at 60 mph climbing mountains in Alaska in the winter, or descending grades in Death Valley in the middle of August. GPH consumption and mpg will change, but rpms won't give you a clue to either.
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Ah, this especially is the sort of thing I was wondering about. Thanks! If I get the car I will probably try a couple ABAB tests at some point.
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