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Old 04-23-2010, 09:59 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Hey that's awesome! Great place to start; you should see gains pretty quick. I'm hoping to move to them relatively soon with my Elantra. I made some trial ones for my Lumina, and had the same problem as you with sloping sidewalls and bracketing.

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Old 04-23-2010, 12:56 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Perhaps what you need is some foam plumbing insulation. It can be carved with a knife and glued or taped on just behind the door to give a new surface with a rounded edge. At the back, just use it as a shim and continue the Coroplast back at a gentle taper.
To remove panels for service, a tape job can be planned so that a single stip of tape does the mounting, and it is easy enough to peel for re-use on the road, or easy replacement. You can buy a lot of tape for the price of a latch plus installation. Using coloured duct tape does wonders for a professional appearance, and plain vinyl top coating tapes are more durable in the weather.
For a neat appearance and a reinforced bottom edge on Coroplast skirts, just slit the inside surface of 3 adjacent flutes, fold over, and use double-sided tape.

Last edited by Bicycle Bob; 04-23-2010 at 01:17 PM.. Reason: P.S. re: edge
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Old 04-23-2010, 01:38 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bicycle Bob View Post
Perhaps what you need is some foam plumbing insulation. It can be carved with a knife and glued or taped on just behind the door to give a new surface with a rounded edge. At the back, just use it as a shim and continue the Coroplast back at a gentle taper.
To remove panels for service, a tape job can be planned so that a single stip of tape does the mounting, and it is easy enough to peel for re-use on the road, or easy replacement. You can buy a lot of tape for the price of a latch plus installation. Using coloured duct tape does wonders for a professional appearance, and plain vinyl top coating tapes are more durable in the weather.
For a neat appearance and a reinforced bottom edge on Coroplast skirts, just slit the inside surface of 3 adjacent flutes, fold over, and use double-sided tape.
I've heard that the type of foam used for pipe insulation can be hot-wired, as is the case with styrofoam. Model airplane (RC) folks reportedly use this stuff, which is impact resistant. Anybody here know about this?

If so, the stuff is much tougher and more weather resistant than styrofoam, and larger diameter pieces can be bought from plumbing supply houses.

Comes in dark grey and tan colors.

You could hot wire foam wedges to fair the air past door posts, etc..
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Old 04-23-2010, 03:01 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Lightweight, cheap, and easy. I might look into that!
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Old 04-23-2010, 04:28 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Be sure to let us know how the partial rear wheel skirts do. I think they look good and plan to make a more permanent set for my car some day. (Removeable, but out of long lasting material.)
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Old 04-23-2010, 04:51 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Will do. However, I was just inspired by a post here:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...html#post44723

I was originally considering using aluminum screen material for an undertray, then I built the coroplast pan. Using the screen between the panels sounds like a good idea.

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