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Old 05-03-2010, 11:26 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Because it keeps working, yes?
Well, yeah. Basically, that's why. Besides that it's never caused a problem, and I can't afford to let someone else do my work for me, if I am capable of doing it myself.

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Old 05-04-2010, 09:48 AM   #12 (permalink)
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+1 for partsdinosaur.com, I have bought a lot of parts and been happy with them.
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Old 05-15-2010, 01:38 PM   #13 (permalink)
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go with gapless rings while you're there.
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Old 05-16-2010, 02:38 AM   #14 (permalink)
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ok, so heads done, getting ready for the bottom end rebuild, when I get the berry hone, what grit should I get? I've found them in a large variety of grits. from about 80 grit all the way up to about 480. also The only calipers I have access to measures in tenths of an inch. Are the cylinders 2 7/8 inch or 3 inch?
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Old 12-24-2010, 01:00 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Same question +1 what grit to use when buying a Berry Hone, when doing rings?

I bought a '94 Metro the read 0 on ALL three doing a compression check is that right, or my valves just toasted. The lady "seized it" in Sept in Southern Utah going down the High way, but it turns over just fine. Paid only $300 for the car, but it won't start...?

Aaron
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Old 12-24-2010, 01:18 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Technical information on using engine hones, flex-hones, ball hones
Flex Hone FAQs, Ball Hone, Cylinder Hone
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Old 12-30-2010, 03:34 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Before buying anything for the honing, look into what it would cost to have a machine shop do the work. They have better honing tools, but more importantly they have better measuring tools (and know how to use them). As it stands you don't know what the bore size is to + or - .050", you should be able to measure it to .0001" and tell how out of round, and tapered.
I'm not saying you shouldn't do it yourself, but you'll need to buy some stuff (and learn how to use it). FYI, there are some amazing prices on ebay for old machine shop tools, but you'll need to be able/have someone calibrate them.
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Old 12-30-2010, 06:26 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sc2dave View Post
go with gapless rings while you're there.
I've used Total Seal rings many times. I'm done with that. It seemed like a good idea, and it works for some. However, I've seen more unnecessary failures with Total Seal rings. Carbon is a HUGE problem.
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Old 12-30-2010, 11:02 PM   #19 (permalink)
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get everything balanced while you are there.
port the head since its off.
and if you really want get a new cam and chuck her in

get some real good mpgs that way
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Old 12-31-2010, 02:50 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Question for you guys on the "compression test I did"... I couldn't get a reading off any three of the cylinders when I tried? But placing your finger near the plug hold, they sure pulled and displace air- I had all three plugs out when I did it, its that incorrect? After the fact, I thought "maybe I should have left the other two plugs in, while testing each cylinder...?


Maybe I need to try again, if I did it wrong?

Thanks,
Aaron

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